| Author | Message | ||
| Pat (Proudeagle10)
Rating: |
Need a refrigerator. I've come across some reconditioned RV frigs. with the manfg. warranty. This frigs. fit my packet book better than new, but amI looking for trouble by being extra conserative. Friends have also told me to just go stright 110 AC from Home Depot or Lowes. Is there a place where I can look at new RV type frigs. that their prices are some what below the average. Pat | ||
| Jerry Liebler (Jerry_liebler)
Rating: N/A |
Pat, Your choice of refrigerator depends on how you'll be using the bus. If you will spend most of your time connected to power poles or running the generator then you can save some money by using a houshold refrig, it's still smart to get the lowest energy usage you can find. If you'll be doing modest amounts of boondocking a 12/24 volt unit will avoid the leveling hassels and will cool better and will be 2 or 3 times more energy efficient. Check out http://www.3rivers.net/~cmac/cmac2.htm. Even with the 12/24 volt DC refrigerators you'll need a good size battery bank (my 4 L16s are good for 4 days of running a 12 volt unit, 1-2 days of most home units) If extended boondocking is your thing nothing beats propane, I'd go with the rebuilt. Check out https://www.rvsurplussalvage.com/catalog/display.php?category_id=31 Regards Jerry 4107 1120 | ||
| John that newguy Rating: N/A |
Pat- Check out: http://www.gasrefrigeration.net/PC%20Power_Boards.htm I needed a fridge too, and decided that batteries require maintenance; they're costly; the electronics needed to keep them working as they should, is very costly. And, if one in the bank fails, it can cause the rest to die prematurely..... causing that inexpensive 110v home fridge to get real expensive real quick. Some guys have no problem running a large battery bank. I envy them. I had one of the two 8D's battery post melt in half due to a loose battery connection. It could have easily exploded. The smoke and sparks could be seen in the reflections inside my bus. Do I really want a half dozen of these things to have to deal with? Soooo.... I bought a used/rebuilt RV gas/electric fridge. The two BBQ size propane bottles will keep the fridge, furnace, hot water tank and stove top happy. And, uhh... me. There's no "right" or "wrong" way... just your own way. | ||
| Tim Strommen (Tim_strommen)
Rating: N/A |
Sounds like JTNG enjoys neglecting his rig! (This was intended as a cheep shot after that "accident" thread... ;) ) Tim | ||
| John that newguy Rating: N/A |
Nice shot, Tim! (HAR) Not as much neglect, as desiring to be able to live without constant concern. My bus has already been neglected for years by the previous owners that used it to make $$$. I won't try to make a new bus out of it, and will use it until it doesn't go. Batteries are a source of constant concern and expense. Sure, I wouldn't mind having an RV that's totally self contained with it's own "rechargeable" energy source..... but there's a matter of practicality and cost-effectiveness, that should be added to the equation. The addition of propane to the equation can make the world of difference. The "RV" fridge can use 110v or propane; the genset, battery and inverter, or shoreline... or your BBQ bottle. I don't want to limit myself to 110v only..... (nice to meet ya', Tim!!) | ||
| FAST FRED Rating: N/A |
The "Price" of any item is not the up front cost (as the Sears 120V fridge folks find out) but the Total Cost , in terms of inital outlay , convienance ,and powering the unit for 5 or 10 years of "Your Way" of bus camping. Energy saved is worth 3X or 4X the price paid for the savings. For the electric folks Tundra is a Hi Efficency (far from "the best" but pretty good). For Propane folks Servelle has many features (no electric needed) and thicker insulation for less propane usage. While "Bestitis" is a disease , paying a bit MORE for a setup that will serve YOU well is good sense . "You get what you pay for."! Rebuilt is fine , if it comes with a warentee as long as a new set. Working, Used is even better,lower cost. Works for me, FAST FRED | ||
| Tim Strommen (Tim_strommen)
Rating: N/A |
And all very sound points JTNG... Like checking you battery's water, specific gravity, and cleaning your battery terminals, measuring for resistance from the stud to the clamp, and using a dielectric sealant over them... regularly. Nice to meet you too! (no hard feelings I hope...) Tim | ||
| John that newguy Rating: N/A |
Naww. Never happin', Tim! Through the years, I've had batteries fail for no apparent reason at all. Water was kept full, the charge rate satisfactory, connections sound and devoid of any corrosion. Yet in spite of that, a cell would go bad. Having one cell go bad, in a bank of many, would cause problems. If the rig sits long enough unused (as most do), that one cell can ruin a bunch others... not out of careless neglect, just out of the absence of the maintainer.. or of a simple oversight. We should take note of how the boat guys do things. They're "boondocking" for extended periods, have limited space and can't always be close to a source for specially designed electronic parts. How many use battery power as the sole energy source for all their appliances? How many use propane? I think most here would agree that there's no right or wrong, unless it's wrong for you. Cheers, man! | ||
| FAST FRED Rating: N/A |
We do remote camping , when not boating , or repairing Fl Hurricane damage and VASTLY prefer propane for everything. Fridge , range & oven heat and noisemaker. The endurance (days out) , and your tolerance to noise & stink will help you decide. FAST FRED | ||
| Tim Strommen (Tim_strommen)
Rating: N/A |
Indeed "to each their own"... My usage is about once a weekend (I try to drain the batteries down to about 75% then charge them up with the alt. while driving) Busses were designed to run not park. Based on that I have rigorously adhered to a driving/maintenance pattern. And I look at the engine telemetry once a month to see if I have some "developing" repairs. Propane is nice... flammable, but functional. Makes a great refrigerant, heater, burns clean, fairly easy to come upon in most cities. As an argument for batteries (not trying to sway anyone here just offering a different method...): If you split a system up into several small banks (of the same size batteries that you were using of course) a minor error with one cell wouldn't drag down your entire pack, but you'd still have the same total available power. Additionally, fully disconnecting, or installing a means for unplugging BOTH terminals of all batteries will reduce the chance of any current leaks or discharges from a good cell to a bad one. This is the method I chose. I have several Anderson Power Products battery connectors in the pack (about $30 for a set of housings and contacts rated @ 350Amps/600VDC continuous) which let me unplug the pack from the vehicle AND unplug the batteries from each other. Better than a disconnect switch. Just remember, the negative is the first terminal to be unplugged, and the last one to be hooked up!!! If you have a Vanner and you don't do this, you'll probably blow it up (not quite as bad as a fuel-air bomb, but the smoke will definitely be let out of that product, and you're not supposed to let it out...) If you can manage (operative word being "IF") charge each battery separately while it's not being used (even taking them home with you is a better choice, just don't leave them on a cold concrete floor) Oh, nuts... I'm rambling again... Alas I found my MUTE button. Cheers! Tim | ||
| John that newguy Rating: N/A |
Tim! Great ramble!! You convinced me! Oh wait..... wait..... that was "for batteries"... hmmm... Well ok, you convinced me anyway. | ||
| FAST FRED Rating: N/A |
"(I try to drain the batteries down to about 75% then charge them up with the alt. while driving)" Even the premo Suretteswill have a short unhappy life if constantly driven down to 75% discharged. If your going from 100% SOC only to 75% soc , thats GREAT and the batt life will be better than doubble what would be expected from going to the 50% discharged that most bat mfg suggest. If youre actually driving them to only 25% charged regularly ,a trippeling of the bat set size might save money. Also I hope the ride home ia really a long one , or you plug in when home , as that last 10% is ALWAYS a long wait , esp with a stock coach Volt regulator . rather than a V reg FOR recharging Deep Cycle batts. FAST FRED | ||
| niles steckbauer (Niles500)
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I believe Tim meant that he took them down to 75% of capacity (25% discharge) - If I'm not mistaken - Niles | ||
| FAST FRED Rating: N/A |
Great concept at only 25% discharge they will "" Live long And Prosper"" FAST FRED | ||
| Tim Strommen (Tim_strommen)
Rating: N/A |
First, Niles is correct (I was thinking about how much charge I have LEFT when I was writing this, and didn't remeber that the glass appears 75% empty to others...) I'm not using stock coach V-Reg. Went Balmar Multi-Stage right out of the gate (friend was parting out a nice sail boat). Being a two cycle (with no cargo), my rig likes to be driven about 50-70 miles a week minimum to get up to temp., so the drive (including the return half) is long enough to charge everything up with no "added" loads. JTNG, you can keep your stinky gas-in-a-can, I was just putting out the "best practices" I've experienced for those heavy "Lead-in-California-Rain-Water" blocks I have. Cheers! Tim P.S. seeing as how I'm not the only one who says "cheers", it may be a fun drinking game to search the archives and do a shot for each time it's said... Just a though ;) -T | ||
| tnJg Rating: N/A |
Chuuure. ish shuounds gud ta me. Sheersh. (hic) |
