| Author |
Message |
Geobus (4108gmc)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, June 29, 2005 - 7:30 pm: | |
Well, this is my second question. I am getting ready to do my summer repairs. I would like to pull out the remains of the AC unit behind the fuel tank of my 4108 GMC. I know it is a little tricky and a few parts need to be left in for the heater to work. Can someone point me to an old thread or comment here on what should be done or not done.
Thanks and have a great day. |
Jerry Liebler (Jerry_liebler)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, June 29, 2005 - 10:39 pm: | |
The service manual pretty well tells all. It's usual to reconnect the defroster to the engine coolant loop without the booster pump. The yahoo group GMCbusnuts has discussed this many times and the archives can be searched. The 4107, 4903, 4108 and 4905 are all very similar in this area. Lots of conversion stuff can go in the area you'll free up. I have a 7.5kw diesel generator, a Trace SW2512, my house batterys (4 ea L16s) and two propane tanks in there with room for a water heater.
Regards
Jerry 4107 1120 |
FAST FRED
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, June 30, 2005 - 5:15 am: | |
You may wish to keep enough of the heating plumbung intact enough to be able to install a "box" heater inside the RV.
We chose a marine 40,000 btu heater and plumbed it in behind the holes that feed air to the orig penlum duct.
I can controll the heat temp and air volume & mix at the drivers seat with the std defroster unit.
The bride can controll the air volume (3speed) and heat output at her seat . The marine unit is controlled by a water valve , cable operated that is usually found controlling the drivers heater.
Nice and only $10-$12 or so.
In the summer the heater works as a powered fresh air vent when required, to blow at dining table area.
IF you keep & re-engineer as much as you can , it saves installing stuff to replace what you just ripped out.
Works for me,
FAST FRED |
Geobus (4108gmc)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, June 30, 2005 - 9:25 am: | |
I would like to keep the original heating/system intacted. I just want to remove the AC stuff. I like the idea of being able to turn the blower on during the summer for air circulation. We are not big AC users but we don't like being steamed to death either.
Does anyone know what is going to be the toughest part of pulling this out?
Does anyone need the parts?
Have a great day. |
FAST FRED
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, July 01, 2005 - 5:12 am: | |
Why bother?
IF the coach heater radiator will be left intact ,
there is not much useable to pull the evap just in front of it.
Pull & toss the compressor and all the rest of the stuff ,
but don't pick a BIG job with no gain.
FAST FRED |
Fred Mc
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, July 23, 2005 - 8:19 pm: | |
On a 4106,if you remove the big heater and blower motor can you still keep the defroster part. And if so do you need to keep the recirculating pump. Will the coolant in the lines circulate without the booster pump. My pump quot.
Thanks
Fred Mc |
Geobus (4108gmc)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, July 24, 2005 - 8:43 am: | |
from what I have heard, the defroster doesn't work nearly as well without the pump, at least not on 4108 4107 & 4905. Others probably know better. |
Tom Caffrey (Pvcces)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, July 25, 2005 - 10:26 pm: | |
The circulator is dual purpose. If you should get air into the heating system, say from servicing it, there is supposed to be a switch at the radiator cap.
When you want to burp your baby, turn on the switch. It's supposed to be spring return, so you just hold it on as long as you want the pump to run.
I don't know if it is supposed to work with the engine off, but it seems to me that it should.
For what it's worth.
Tom Caffrey PD4106-2576
Suncatcher |