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John Elnitski

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Posted on Saturday, July 16, 2005 - 2:19 pm:   

I am looking at install either an avanti 8.3 at 288 k/yr or Kenmore 10.3 at 350 k/yr, both electric frigs. I have a 7.5 diesel genset, two ac roof mounts. I am looking for any suggestions or past experinece with these two models. Also looking for any suggestions on how to secure the frig in place.
TWODOGS (Twodogs)

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Posted on Saturday, July 16, 2005 - 2:27 pm:   

click on my name & I will email you a picture of how my frig. is fastened to wall...also, you must go to a r.v. dealer & buy the clip that holds the frig. door closed...(5.00)I have a kenmore
john w. roan (Chessie4905)

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Posted on Saturday, July 16, 2005 - 2:39 pm:   

TWODOGS-If you put one of the little frigimates inside the reefer.... the suction from the little battery operated fan will keep the door shut. :-)
Mike Eades (Mike4905)

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Posted on Saturday, July 16, 2005 - 2:49 pm:   

John Iput a full size with an ice maker in my 4905. I didn't lock it in and it has been in for three years with no problems. Just make sure you setting on a flat floor. You can go into Loews or Home depot and child proof locks. They work great. Only chore was removing the windshield to put the fridg in. only opening large enough. Mike
James Maxwell (Jmaxwell)

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Posted on Saturday, July 16, 2005 - 4:24 pm:   

John: U don't mention batteries or inverter. Are ure plans to rely on the generator to run this when not hooked up? If so, that is a lot of generator for just 1 or 2 amps of load if ure only running the frig.

As for hold down, you can fabricate steel clamps that go over the leveling feet and screw into the floor. My 11.9 cu.ft GE is contained in a closet w/a flue built into the back of the closet that allows the air of the condenser (a rear mounted static air condenser) to rise up and out of the closet. Air in is under the base of the closet. I set the rear clamps, slid the fridge in, then placed the front clamps over the leveling adjustors and screwed them to the base of the closet.

Besides Avanti and Kenmore, GE, Sanyo, and E-Wave make low power consumption boxes in the 10-13 cu/ft category. My GE pulls 1.1-1.3 amps and runs between 20-25 minutes of the hour. Manual defrost, which I have to do abt. every 4-5 months.
R.C.Bishop

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Posted on Saturday, July 16, 2005 - 8:09 pm:   

Mike.....interesting concept about removing the windshield....if I can't get it thru the door opening.....it doesn't belong in there....:-) :-)

FWIW
RCB
Ed Jewett (Kristinsgrandpa)

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Posted on Saturday, July 16, 2005 - 8:39 pm:   

RCB, maybe he is married and didn't have a choice......
Ed.
Jtng

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Posted on Saturday, July 16, 2005 - 9:07 pm:   

"By john w. roan (Chessie4905) (69.162.3.30)
on Saturday, July 16, 2005 - 2:39 pm:
TWODOGS-If you put one of the little frigimates inside the reefer....
the suction from the little battery operated fan will keep the door shut. "



(Bwaaaahahaha...mmmphhha...uhmmphhaha)
R C Bishop

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Posted on Saturday, July 16, 2005 - 9:10 pm:   

Hey,hey, Ed...I'm *positive* you have something there. Fortunately, on this end, I'm pretty much doing it my way.....

....however, having said that....... two *new* fridges later( The first wasn't s a t i s f a c t o r y )and a few things aft, well..... I know Xactly what you mean...
BTDT :-)

RCB
Craig (Ceieio)

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Posted on Saturday, July 16, 2005 - 9:12 pm:   

Down at Marathon, the run the bus through the paint shop and then pull the passenger windshield out first thing in the plant. All of the conversion material goes in through the window and then the glass is put back in when they get ready to button her up.
R.C.Bishop

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Posted on Saturday, July 16, 2005 - 9:14 pm:   

Right!!!!...BUT....they have *paid* labor and expertise (???) to do such things.....I'm a one man construction crew///:-)

RCB
TWODOGS (Twodogs)

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Posted on Saturday, July 16, 2005 - 9:53 pm:   

glass shop ,r&r windshield 100.00
DMDave

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Posted on Saturday, July 16, 2005 - 11:10 pm:   

john, our fridge is mounted in a box that fits tight on the sides and has 4" clearance at the top.we put 2 1X4's along the sides at the top so they fit tight then jacked up the front feet to wedge it tight the space between allows the hot air off the coils to escape. (its an electric only unit off invertor.
John Jewett (Jayjay)

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Posted on Sunday, July 17, 2005 - 12:43 am:   

John, I've got a 9.0 Cu. Ft. GE, and I used two pieces of 3/4" aluminum angle, 1/8 thick, and about 3 inches long, which I screwed to the floor and to the front on the fridge out near the edge on each side. Then I used a piece of the same angle about 6 inches long and fastened it to the wall, and the center of the fridge at the top. My GMC 4905 has hauled it around like that for almost 5 years with no problems.
There must be about a thousand ways to latch the doors, so your on your own, but none on them should cost more than a buck or two. (unless you're RICH like Two Dogs and can afford $5.00 for a Genuine Camping World Latch) Cheers...JJ
angela watts

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Posted on Thursday, July 21, 2005 - 8:58 am:   

Newbee question...does the refer need to be running all the time to keep it in good working order & should you be sitting level for refer to work correctly? How do you level a bus?
Thanks, Angela
Tom Caffrey (Pvcces)

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Posted on Friday, July 22, 2005 - 12:08 am:   

Hi, Angela.

If your coach is comfortably level, it's likely to be close enough. The modern ones tolerate being out of level better than the old ones did.

If you are far enough out of level to cause it to stop working, it's possible to damage the boiler unit in a fairly short period of time.

This won't happen while you are driving, but if you park somewhere to go shopping while it's hot outside, and the coach is leaning to a curb or you're parked on a grade, it would be a good idea to shut the fridge off until you come back and get ready to move again.

The Norcold we have allows 3 one way and six the other way (percent or degrees, I don't remember which) as level enough for proper operation.

We don't make any attempt to keep our fridge running between trips. The old Dometic boiler rusted really badly when it was unused compared to the Norcold we replaced it with.

Our manual does not make a recommendation to keep the unit running while not in use.

Here's a link to some good reading for RVing:

www.phrannie.org

For what it's worth.

Tom Caffrey PD4106-2576
Suncatcher
Dale Ronsin

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Posted on Monday, July 25, 2005 - 11:36 pm:   

take a look at the Magic Chef 10 cf unit at Home Depot for 249 in CA. BTW, it is 1.2 amps which would be about 130 watts when running. It is the starting current that is important for use with an inverter.
1. Need to have enough suds to supply the start current or LRA - Locked Rotor Amps. That is about 4 x the run current. 2. As for the 335 KW HR per Year, that is an overall consumption ...about One kw hr per day. At 130 wats, it means the unit runs about 8 of 24 hours.. Note the KWHR/DAY is what the batteries need, the LRA is what the inverter needs. The watts and current are almost irrelevant.
Tom Caffrey (Pvcces)

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Posted on Wednesday, July 27, 2005 - 12:39 am:   

Dale, I see that you are treating the AC current as though it was the same as a power factor of 1.0. I'm sure that it's not.

To allow for a power factor of .5 to .7, which is a lot more likely, you should expect the fridge to run 50% to 100% longer than your calculation.

Watts are what matters to your batteries, but they come from two sources; the actual load watts and the watts of dissipated energy in the inverter. That's more likely to depend on the curent draw than the load watts.

On top of that, the efficiency of the conversion varies depending on the load. The only practical way to arrive at the load for the batteries is to observe the inverter input current with and without the load.

The good news in this argument is that a lower power factor means that fridge uses less power than its amperage might lead you to believe, but the 1 kwh per day may well be right on.

For what it's worth.

Tom Caffrey PD4106-2576
Suncatcher

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