Author |
Message |
Mark & Michele (Busnut_pd4106)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, September 27, 2005 - 10:03 am: | |
We took some more pictures of the underneath of our 06 "The Belle" and discover more rust. This is our first bus and we did not follow the guidelines for inspecting a bus before purchase. By posting these pictures we hope others can learn from our experience. We took our chances and now that we have her home we are discovering more hidden rust. But my partner (Wife) assured me that it can be fixed. She also believe that the original AC unit caused the rust due to condensation since the rust is directly below the AC compartment and I have to agree with her. The solution we were told is a steel or aluminum plate bolted or welded along the rusted rail. http://www.geocities.com/buswrap411/Rust/Rustybelle020.jpg http://www.geocities.com/buswrap411/Rust/Rustybelle022.jpg |
TWODOGS (Twodogs)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, September 27, 2005 - 10:26 am: | |
take an ice pick out there...if you can push it thru the metal...it can't be welded & must be cut out & replaced...no big deal..we all have rust somewhere.. |
Mark & Michele (Busnut_pd4106)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, September 27, 2005 - 11:26 am: | |
Thanks for the advice TD. |
Brian Brown (Blue_velvet)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, September 27, 2005 - 12:38 pm: | |
Hate to do this, but {slap, slap}, GET AHOLD OF YOURSELF, MAN! You want to see some rust, I'll show you some rust: http://www.brownland.org/bus/rust/index.html OK, all better now. Sorry I had to do that to 'ya. You've got a fine coach there, Mark. Rust happens. Most of your bus is aluminum and what is steel, and what is rusted will be just fine. Fix what you feel like you need to, but know that our 40+ year old busses might still be on the road long after we're not... rust and all. It's not like cancer... it's more like wrinkles. This has been an intervention moment brought to you by: Brian "Blue (& Rusty) Velvet" Brown PD4106-1175 |
Mark & Michele (Busnut_pd4106)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, September 27, 2005 - 2:21 pm: | |
LOL point well taken! |
FAST FRED
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, September 28, 2005 - 6:04 am: | |
For a relativly simple stop to any rust Chassis Saver is a paint scheme that seems to work great! We have use it on top of fuel tanks (where they rust) on Tiawan Tubs with long term sucess. Works for me, wire wheel and grease remover required. FAST FRED |
Gary LaBombard (Garylee)
Rating: Votes: 1 (Vote!) | Posted on Thursday, September 29, 2005 - 5:32 pm: | |
While working on my "Rustless Money Pit" for 3 years now I have settled on a product called (RustBullet). Of course this is after replacing completely rotted out metal. You can not weld on something with deeper rust than surface rust that has to be cleaned off first. Rotted metal has to be replaced for integrity. I did start using Rustoleum primer and paint to preserve repaired metal to begin with 3 years ago but have started to see about a year ago that the rustoleum paint over the rustoleum primer was starting to show signs rust in welded joints, corners etc. I researched the Internet and found a few other specialty items for primering your vehicle after all the laborous work of repairing or like me repairing / replacing & reinforcing. I went to (www.rustbullet.com) and found an extensive testing program they have documented of their product against (por-15), (rustoeum) and (Rustbullet) and I believe one other product. Go look at this data and decide for yourself. Any how as I am still continuing with what seems my endless repair /replace and reinforcement of my 1973 Eagle bus frame. As I continue with my conversion repairs I am removing the rustoleum and putting on the Rustbullet and plant to completey remove the rustoleum on previously painted surfaces. I do not want to have a chemical unbalance of two different primer paints with the weaker paint on the metal surface first. This is my own preference, after 3 years of working my buns off what is a few more hours of using a sander to remove the rustoleum and start a new. I really love this stuff and the texture is leaves, it also has a great sealing effect you can feel when being applied and so I want to share the success of this product with you to investigate for yourself. Rustbullet instructions say their product does not completely require rust removal, just wire brush where possible then apply and the rustbullet with the chemical reaction that the rustbullet has with the actual rusted steel makes a seal and prevents the rust from continuing forever. But I believe you need a solid metal and not rotted through foundation for the rustbullet to be successful as any primer paint would need. I hope this will help you protect your investment and give you peace of mind when done. If you have not seen my frame replacement "Teaser" go to: (http://community.webshots.com/user/converter101) and look at 54 pictues there, some include Rustbullet primer paint applied to finish repairs. Gary LaBombard |