| Author |
Message |
pat young
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, October 17, 2005 - 4:18 am: | |
Howdy bus fans
I posted earlier about how to keep my pickup from jumping INTO gear when it was being towed.
I tow all 4 wheels down, with a tow bar, in neutral. It worked for about 6 years, literally tens of thousands of miles, then in the space of about a year, my Ford F250 and Datsun pickup both jumped into gear and detonated.
My question was How To Prevent This. (I am not going to tow with front wheels done, on a dolly. This isn't a concern)
I checked out the site for the automatic driveline disconnects, a little pricey for me.
So the question is, how to prevent a vehicle from jumping from neutral into gear. Is there any way to prevent this? Or has anyone ever experienced this before?
If anyone can get to the bottom of this, it is the brave crew who reads BNO.
Thanks |
Pete/RTS Daytona (Pete_rtsdaytona)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, October 17, 2005 - 7:13 am: | |
Hi
Just wondering out loud -
Is it possible to use a 2 x 4 to push against the seat and hold the clutch pedal down while you tow
just as an added safety
The reason I was thinking about this is:
Just purchased a 2.3l - 92 Ford Ranger 4 cyclinder 5 speed pickup truck. I'm not sure but I don't think I can tow this 5 speed manual P/U " 4 wheels down" in neutral - It's my understanding that most 5 speed manual trannies don't get the one of the safhts or gears lubricated while being tow - because the design of the 5 speed does not allow that shaft to spim while being towed
It is my hope that putting my ranger tranny in 5th gear and using a 2 x 4 to hold down the clutch will rotate everything that needs to be rotated and lubed while towing 4 wheels down
Anybody any any thoughts about this idea
Pete RTS/Daytona |
John MC9
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, October 17, 2005 - 8:33 am: | |
Wow. Wear on that disc and throw-out bearing, and the
possibility of the clutch pedal managing to break from it's
constant depressed condition, would bother me, Pete.
RV Net has a bunch of comments regarding towing the Ranger.
Those that have, don't mention anything about it slipping into gear.
http://www.rv.net/forums/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/15406228/gotomsg/15661995.cfm |
John MC9
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, October 17, 2005 - 8:34 am: | |
(Make that: "break free" from it's depressed cond) |
Richard Bowyer (Drivingmisslazy)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, October 17, 2005 - 9:19 am: | |
Pat, in reading several boards for several years, yours is the first experience I can recall of a manual tranny jumping back into gear.
I can relate however that a couple of times I accidentally left an automatic in park and a VW in high gear but caught the error before I did any damage.
Richard |
R. Steve Nichol (N4rsn)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, October 17, 2005 - 11:00 am: | |
The only way I can see the transmission slipping in gear, is,---- If the detent springs on the shift rails are to week. If the springs were replaced with a stronger spring, this should stop.
Is it possiable, something could have shifted in the cab of the truck, and hit the shift lever?
I can't imagine the transmission shifting in gear, going down the hiway, as the gears will not mesh, and a lot of grinding should happen, untill the vechicle stops.
This is all speculation
my 2 cents
Steve |
Gary Stadler (Boogiethecat)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, October 17, 2005 - 11:52 am: | |
Pat, my feeling is that it's like a basic engineering thing: The fact that it "worked for about 6 years, literally tens of thousands of miles" doesn't mean that what you were doing was proper, and it's probably that you were simply darned lucky all those miles.
It's more likely that when the poop finally started hitting the fan, this was the norm kicking in and you were just running on luck and loads of borrowed time in the past.
It's kind of a basic that unless you have a vehicle that very specifically will tow with all wheels down, or you pull the driveshaft, you're going to experience the down-side and see things break, no matter how many two-by-fours you use to lock things into place.
As for the driveline disconnects, after detonating BOTH your Ford F250 and Datsun, how can you say they are "too pricey"? A new disconnect is about $500... if you can get just the disconnect itself and not all the cables & brackets, it's a bit cheaper though you have to reach under the vehicle to disconnect it (I did this with my last datsun PU because the cable mechanism on my prior toad was fairly mickey mouse and not very reliable, so I saved a few bucks not buying it the next time)
If nothing else, keep an eye on ebay- they have been selling there for $250 -although they don't come up that often you can find one with patience... until then a few minutes disconnecting the driveshaft with an open end wrench will do the trick for no money at all... |
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