| Author | Message | ||
| captain ron (Captain_ron)
Rating: N/A |
While I'm in Tennessee away from my new bus I have to think about what I'm gonna do rather than jump in and start doing. I want realy good insulation in this bus. I see that styrofoam is only a max of R4. Seems a little week for me. especialy since I've been spending a lot of time in Wisconsin. will the spray foam give me more? Or should I use the fiberglass pink stuff I hate? If I use the fiber glass should i use a vaper barier? I don't know what is behind the metal skin on the inside of the bus below the windows. should I blow insulation in there or spray foam or is it adequetly insulated already? | ||
| Jerry Liebler (Jerry_liebler)
Rating: N/A |
Ron, Look for 'Rmax' brand it is a polyisocyanauranate foam, very similiar to polyurethane and has an r value of 7.2/inch which is better than the styrene foams which are about r4-6/inch and very much better than fiberglass which is about r2-3/inch. The best is the 2 part sprayed in foam which is also about r7/inch but covers and seals much better than the sheet stock. Because metals conduct heat so very well there is negligible reduction in heat loss or gain achievable by insulating inside those metal enclosed cavities in bus structures. It's much better to use 1/2" 'straps' with 1/2" of 'Rmax' between the straps on the inside, at least you'll get over r2 with this plan. For the best insulation put up the strapping then have it spray foamed. But before spray foaming have all the 'cutouts' for AC, ventfans etc. in and framed and have the 'prewiring' done. Next best is cut and fit lots of pieces of 'Rmax' and fill the cracks with the foam in a can. Cutting down on air leakage is as important as insulation, look carefully at door and window seals and holes trough the floor for wiring etc. In a GM the door is one big air vent than needs to be plugged up, the SOB you now have may have a similar issue. Regards Jerry 4107 1120 | ||
| John MC9 Rating: N/A |
FWIW: polyisocyanurate foam | ||
| Tim Strommen (Tim_strommen)
Rating: N/A |
FYI: Heat Calculator Spreadsheet (designed by me, hosted by Jim Behrden) It's a winzip self-extracting file - which requires the use of Microsoft Excel (free MS Excell Viewer at www.Microsoft.com here) This will at least give you an idea of how your insulation will affect your situation. Cheers! -Tim | ||
| Ed Jewett (Kristinsgrandpa)
Rating: N/A |
I agree with Jerry, the polyisocyanurate is the way to go, if you can't get the spray on done reasonably. I priced the spray on and came up with a figure around $2000 locally. The poly stuff from Lowes figured out about $850 a couple of months ago. that made up my mind real quick. Ed | ||
| captain ron (Captain_ron)
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WOW Jerry "the SOB you drive" I'm glad the bus couldn't hear you say that, she's very sensetive. I'm sure you ment "Sweet Old Bus"  | ||
| Jerry Liebler (Jerry_liebler)
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To a GMC owner, SOB = Some Other Brand. Regards Jerry 4107 1120 | ||
| Tim Strommen (Tim_strommen)
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Woops! Sorry Jim... The file is actually hosted by Jim Behr (my mistake...) Cheers All! -Tim | ||
| james dean boggs (Jd_boggs)
Rating: N/A |
I highly recommend the foam insulation because it works well and you can remove excess foam with a bread knife. Mask areas you dont want sprayed with plastic film. That foam will NOT stick to polyethelene. Order extra nozzles. I ran out of nozzles because I sprayed in sections. Each time you use the wand, it's nozzle gets plugged in minutes! They sell a cleaner for it but I dindn't bother. The nozzles are 2 types, fan spray and spot spray. Use the spot to hit cavaties. I had cavaties formed by angle iron used for support. This place sells it: http://www.fomofoam.com/index.htm I used the 605 non fire rated. Check out the video section for demo how to use it. http://www.fomofoam.com/video.htm |