| Author |
Message |
captain ron (Captain_ron)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, December 22, 2005 - 11:53 am: | |
I have a 30 amp box and power cord in my bus that JJ installed for me and I'm very happy with it.
but I hear guys say it won't run 2 ac's and a lot of the newer parks and service centers like the one in nashville at the Prevost center are 50 amp only. can I have and is it feasable to have both?
also how can I hook up a seperate circiut for a pure sine inverter for my receptical that I'll run me computer stuff off of? and how big of inverter for one outlet (quad)will I need? |
wayne Newland
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, December 22, 2005 - 12:17 pm: | |
If you don't want to change to 50 amp service, Camping World sells a 50 apm (male) to 30 amp (female) adaptor. |
Ed Jewett (Kristinsgrandpa)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, December 22, 2005 - 12:56 pm: | |
Apparently , since you are using a 30 Amp system now, you do not have any 220/240 apliances so that makes it easy, and cheaper. Put in a 50 amp service and get a 50 amp to 30 amp plug adapter. It enables you to hook up to 30 amp receptacles and still use everything, just at a reduced total power capacity. Since 30 smps is sufficient now, then it should be no problem. Some campground owners are upset by the use of the adapters so be prepared for a possible arguement.
The 30 amp service is supposed to be limited to 5 circuits ( NEC Art. 551.42 (C)) so you will be better off with a 50 amp. service. I don't agree with the 5 ckt. limitation, I like a lot of dedicated ckts.
As for the inverter, I don't know much about them compared to some of the other people on this board, I hope some one will chime in and help you out.
The only thing I know that is important is, that inverters have to have over temperature protection and have to be bonded (grounded). If bolted to metal framework/sheetmetal that is good enough.
I requires 8 awg copper for a bonding jumper (NEC Art.551.20 (C)) and all bonding jumpers shall have solderless connectors Art 551.56 (C).
If I can help my email is listed in my profile.
Ed |
Richard Bowyer (Drivingmisslazy)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, December 22, 2005 - 2:40 pm: | |
snip "the one in nashville at the Prevost center are 50 amp only"
Camping world sells an adapter that plugs into the 50 amp outlet that you plug your 30 amp cord into. No problem.
Richard |
Larry & Lynne Dixon (Larry_d)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, December 22, 2005 - 6:33 pm: | |
Hope you don't care if I cut in with a question
How is the 50 amp cord which is 4 wires cut down to a 30 amp which is 3 wires---- also how about a 30 amp broken down to a 15 amp? Ed or Richard maybe, or both or anyone else.
Larry d thanks much |
Ed Jewett (Kristinsgrandpa)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, December 22, 2005 - 7:23 pm: | |
Larry,
The 2 hot wires on the 50 are common with the one hot wire on the 30. On a 50 amp service the 2 hot wires are 120 degrees out of phase,(except on single phase gensets and they are 180 deg. out) by using the adapter they are both the same phase.
The 30 and the 15 each have one hot, one neutral, and one equipment ground. Just match up the appropriate circuit/wire.
Ed |
Stan
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, December 22, 2005 - 8:06 pm: | |
Maybe I can explain it in a different way.
If your coach has a four wire cord and you plug it into a three wire 30 amp adaptor, the adaptor connects both hot wires in your cord to the one hot wire in the 30 amp receptacle.
If you coach has a three wire 30 amp cord and you plug it into a four wire 50 amp adaptor the hot wire in the 30 amp cord is connected to only one hot wire in the four wire 50 amp receptacle |
John MC9
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, December 22, 2005 - 8:48 pm: | |
If you try to use both AC units (or anything totaling more
than 30 amps") on a 30 amp "dogbone" to a 50 amp service
outlet, you're going to be buying many "dogbones", since
they were not designed to carry 50 amps and will melt.
Do yourself a major favor, and buy 50 amp shoreline and
wire the box for 50 amp service (split 110; two legs of 110;
220 service; call it whatever you want). It's the safest and
least problematic way of doing it. |
Harry Walsdorf
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, December 23, 2005 - 9:45 am: | |
I have a small 6 lug service box with a 50 amp male plug on end of it.than i have a 30 amp cord & plug with a 50 amp female (with 2 hots crossed) so when I plug into 30 amp it charges both sides of my box.For 50 amp I just use 50 amp cord.
RON I see your in Wis quite a bit I would be happy to show you my bus maybe you can get some ideas.I have a MCI 96A3 I live 1/2 Hr west of sheboygan. 1 Hr south of Green Bay,E-Mail me off post if interested. |
Stan
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, December 23, 2005 - 10:24 am: | |
If you have normal RV type A/C units that draw about 13 amps each they will operate with a 30 amp service. The high current draw for a couple of seconds during motor starting will not overheat the system.
In an RV you have to be more aware of electrical loads. In a house kitchen, everybody learns that you cannot plug all the high current appliances into the same receptacle or you trip the breaker. Even with a 240 volt 50 amp service in an all electric bus you cannot run averything at the same time. Add up the current draw on all the things that you want to (or have to) run at the same time and build your system on that basis. Some of the old RVs are still around with a 15 amp service but the modern standard is 120 volt 30 amp or 240 volt 50 amp.
It is kind of ironic that RV people are supposedly envionmentaly concerned people but their demand for energy continues to skyrocket with more electric appliances and less miles per gallon of fuel. The idea of getting back to nature and camping with the family has changed dramatically. |
John MC9
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, December 23, 2005 - 11:43 am: | |
A sample of amp ratings for new air conditioners; older models
are not as efficient:
Carrier:
"These systems feature high-strength, lightweight polymer
construction that won’t rust or discolor. It delivers 13,500 or
15,000 BTUs of cooling, ample even for larger RV’s. AirV offers
an optional 5,600 BTU electric heating assembly. Full-load amp
draw is only 13.5A cooling and 15.6A heating! "
carrier
Coleman Air Conditioner
Mach 3 Plus 8333 (Cool Only)
13,500 BTUH Cooling
Amps Cooling 14.9
http://www.ducktec.com/itm00183.htm
You will be hard pressed to run both rooftop air conditioners
on a 30 amp supply, especially so, using a "dogbone" or other
adapter to a 50 amp outlet. The 30 amp adapter is not designed
to handle more than 30 amps. The air conditioners are not the
only appliances that will be running, if you have an inverter, fridge,
or any other item connected. The load draw on start up for each
air conditioner will be great, and sustained due to the lower power.
In the event both units cycle at the same time, you will do damage
to the 30 amp plug and adapter.
(BTDT too many times) |
FAST FRED
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, December 24, 2005 - 5:39 am: | |
" Full-load amp draw is only 13.5A cooling and 15.6A heating! "
Full load amp draw is what the unit eats while operating to its maximum.
Starting is a whole different animal, you will need to look for the LRA, "Locked Rotor Amps"in their material to find out how hard it starts.
If 2 normal air cond actually do start on a 30A circuit , the circuit breaker is probably bypassed.
And that's when one is hot wired to never go off , and the other cycled to controll temps.
If both attemted a start at once 120V 50A would hardly do it.
FAST FRED |
Stan
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, December 24, 2005 - 10:17 am: | |
The only breakers that trip instantly are magnetic. I don't think any company supplies magnetic breakers for domestic use. All common breakers are thermal trip. The percentage of overload determines how long it takes the breaker to trip. At a 10% overload it is in minutes. At 100% overload it is getting fairly quick.
With an instant trip breaker it would be impossible to start any motor unless the breaker was rated so high that it would not save the motor from burning up on overload. |
Richard Bowyer (Drivingmisslazy)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, December 24, 2005 - 10:26 am: | |
And further to what Stan says, there are breakers that are specifically designed to handle the LRA of the motors they are starting and as I recall, may be as much as 200% for a very short time. These are the type of breakers that should be installed on any motor circuit.
Richard |
Sam Reenu
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, December 24, 2005 - 2:01 pm: | |
Stan: "I don't think any company supplies magnetic breakers for domestic use."
This is not so.
http://ecatalog.squared.com/pubs/Circuit%20Protection/Miniature%20Circuit%20Breakers/QO-QO B%20Circuit%20Breakers/QOT/0730CT9801.pdf
Look on page 3, under "Operating Mechanism". |
Gary Stadler (Boogiethecat)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, December 24, 2005 - 2:08 pm: | |
Funny, for three years now I've been sucessfully running my two 13.5 roof airs all day at Burning Man (hot desert) on a 30 amp service with zero problem. And I run all the other stuff inside. According to my amp gauge, running current of either is 7-8 amps with the compressor running, or 2 amps with it off.
Starting creates a big draw but only for less than a second, and has never been enough to pop a breaker on me... |
Dale L. Waller (Happycampersrus)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, December 24, 2005 - 3:23 pm: | |
Six years ago mine was wired with 30a service as I was instructed per the "trained personal" at Camping World in Myrtle Beach. They had the opinion that a 30a campground is easier to find.
It is the exact same setup that my 1990 Terry travel trailer has.
I have 2 Coleman Mach 3 13,500 AC's, Electric Fridge, Microwave, 19" tv and 13" tv and a 30a converter to run the 12volt stuff and charge the house battery from the shore line. I haven't tripped a breaker yet.
Knowing what I know now if I was to rewire or do another conversion I would go with the 50a 4 wire setup simply because more campgrounds are adding 50a service.
The RV industry is gaining more and more popularity so the campgrounds have to add more amenities to keep up with the growth or lose out to a campground with better service .
Dale |
Stan
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, December 24, 2005 - 4:18 pm: | |
Sam: I looked up that breaker and they refer to it as a thermal-magnetic. Do you know the theory of operation? Thermal-magnetic sounds like an oxy-moron since they are completely diffeent principle. They don't give any trip times but refer to fast switching time which I take to mean a strong spring to reduce contact burning. Page 6 says that they are of inverse-time type which is another term that I am not familiar with.
BTW my house has an ITE (long since out of business) main panel with magnetic breakers which now cost me $60.00 for an aftermarket replacement. |
John MC9
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, December 24, 2005 - 6:33 pm: | |
For years the RV industry wired only one RV roof air
conditioner to be used at a time, with 30 amp service.
To negotiate the use of the second AC unit, the RVr
could purchase or make an adapter, that would allow
the second air conditioner to be used if connected to
a second 15-30 amp outlet. To use either the front
or rear AC unit, the user had to use the switch to shift
the power to the front or rear unit.
I am so thrilled now, to learn that the RV industry made
such a foolish mistake! There's no need to spend a penny
rewiring for 50 amp service! Simply connect the second
air conditioner to the main circuit and allow both to run
on 30 amps!! Whoooopie!
Thank you, engineer wizards! You did what the industry
could not!
(now.... if I can only figure out why those adapters always
melted down when I ran both at the same time....... and
those breakers popping off..??.. hmmm must be a major
malfunction across hundreds of miles of campgrounds...)
</sarcasm> |
Dale L. Waller (Happycampersrus)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, December 24, 2005 - 8:16 pm: | |
Pretty simple really.
I have 2 of the Mach 3 power savers. according to my manual these are 10 amps units Item # 26616 from camping world.
The Terry trailer has a pulsebox that ties the AC's together from the factory. That cycles the AC's alternately.
Camping World sells the same type of unit Pulse Air Item # 9320 for around $180 if one is needed or check with a RV salvage.
Dale |
Stan
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, December 24, 2005 - 8:19 pm: | |
For years the RV industry built everything with a pine 2 x 2 frame stapled together. They fastened a paperboard panel to the inside and 30 ga aluminum to the outside.
Obviously anyone trying to do it different must be doing it wrong. Everyone should always buy the lowest quality components and have it assembled by the cheapest possible labor if you want to do it right.
Also sarcasm |
Sam Reenu
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, December 24, 2005 - 8:37 pm: | |
Stan: it means that they have both thermal and magnetic means of tripping. The thermal means addresses marginal overloads, and the magnetic means addresses more severe faults, e.g. dead shorts.
Inverse time likely means that the higher the fault current magnitude, the shorter the time until interruption. BTW, if you had scanned the entire document, you would have seen the current vs. time graphs (including the splicing point between the 2 means), and likely learned a whole lot of other things; these breakers have been a staple of the industry for decades now.
Gary: perhaps the rating is a worst case one, e.g. where operations begin (and also continue?) with a hot and humid interior; it would take additional BTUs to condense out the water vapor, and thus the refridgerant flow regulator would be passing more gas, and the compressor would take more energy to sustain the higher flow rate. |
John MC9
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, December 24, 2005 - 8:52 pm: | |
Dale-
Thanks! I've been looking for the blasted number for that device! |
John MC9
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, December 24, 2005 - 9:03 pm: | |
Ah ha! This is the one item no-one should be without. It's
no wonder they're sold out! With this, you can use a smaller
inverter and/or genset to run more than one air conditioner
at a time with 30 amps or less!
Pulse-Air®
(thanks again, Dale!) |
Dale L. Waller (Happycampersrus)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, December 24, 2005 - 9:22 pm: | |
John,
I hope you find one. If you are patient they have a sale on the Camping World stuff in January.
It sure beats the crap outta dogbone adapters or looking for 50a campgrounds. That way you can stay at the state parks and still have 2 AC's.
Dale |
Jerry Liebler (Jerry_liebler)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, December 24, 2005 - 10:37 pm: | |
There is no queston, we all should wire for 50 amp 120/240 service. It is easy to carry and use a 50 amp female to 30 amp male adapter for those places that only have 30 amp service and adjust usage acordingly. If needed there is also a 30 amp female to 20 amp male adapter that'll allow some power from the relatives house. As to air conditioner starting loads, some inverters, particularly the Trace SW2512 and SW4024, have a feature of limiting shore power in and using battery power to boost the output when needed, combined output available is over 60 amps which will start two power hungry roof warts. But the better answer is to not use the power hogs, I have a 10,000 Btu/h window unit for my bedroom, it draws 7.6 amps and I have two 10,000 BTU/h portable heat pumps for the front, each draws 6 amps so I can run all three on a 20 amp shore cord (the SW2512 handles the stating surges).
Regards
Jerry 4107 1120 |
Dale L. Waller (Happycampersrus)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, December 25, 2005 - 9:54 am: | |
Jerry,
That's kinda what I done by buying the power saver AC's. Keep them amps down low as posible and then you will have no problems.
We have run into a couple of campgrounds (east coast) that really frown upon the use of adapters.
Without starting a major battle you won't convince them that you won't cause a problem with a 50a to 30a adapter. They have seen them melt and they don't want the liability.
Trust me the power police on their golf carts will wake you up to tell you not to use an adapter. BTDT
It is not so much a problem with a 30a shore line to a 50a service adapter, but MAKE SURE your breakers in your coach are the correct ratings because you now have 1 wire 50a service. Don't add any more load or appliances and you will be fine.
Dale |
Geoff (Geoff)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, December 25, 2005 - 11:42 am: | |
Why would a 30 to 50 adaptor melt unless it was made wrong? And what happened to the 30 amp outlet fuse? I would be pissed if I couldn't use my 30 to 50 adpator, it's either that or a 15 amp extension cord to my battery charger. These campgrounds better get up to date, 50 amp is the choice of big motorhomes!
--Geoff
'82 RTS AZ |
Dale L. Waller (Happycampersrus)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, December 25, 2005 - 2:36 pm: | |
Geoff,
If the Coach breakers don't trip with a 30a cord adapted to a 50a service something will give. It will probably be at the adapter connection. So I don't do it, But that's why the power saver AC's work for me. Or a Pulse-Air is a great option.
My Terry travel trailer had an electrical problem that didn't trip the campground power breaker and it melted the plug off of the shore line. Way to go Fleetwood. The converter gets power before the breakers on my model. I wouldn't trust the campground breaker on a 50cent bet.
If you are talking about a 50a shore line adapted to a 30a service and try to run 2 AC's or pull too many Amps as JohnMC9 described you will melt an adapter if the campground breaker doesn't trip. It may not trip because you are right around 30amps with 2 AC's.
KOA in Wytheville got me outta bed to tell us no adapters. We were in my friends coach it has a 50a cord, but they only have 30a service. Older campgrounds are cheaper, But you will suffer unless you can handle 30a service
The smaller camps and state parks usually only have 30a service. I 100% agree that the campgrounds need to keep up with the industry.
Dale |
sylverstone (Sylverstone_pd4501864)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, December 25, 2005 - 3:10 pm: | |
seems to me that you could save yourself a lot of pain by having a 50 amp cable and a 30 amp cable... if the magic is done inside the coach there's no reason the campground would be any the wiser.
-dd |
Stan
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, December 25, 2005 - 4:57 pm: | |
I don't think the adaptor is the problem. A worn out (loose) receptacle will overheat regardless what is plugged in, if rated current is drawn.
I would venture an educated guess that if you plug a clean plug into a good receptacle that the wire would fail before the plug. If you are really concerned with this, you can use a receptacle pull tester at the same time that you are testing the receptacle for voltage, phase and grounding.
You probably should be more concerned with the thirty-nine cent rceptacles that you installed inside the coach. A quality 15 amp receptacle costs almost $4.00. |
Donald Lee Schwanke (Dontx)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, December 25, 2005 - 8:50 pm: | |
I agree Stan. I have found several RV parks in the Midwest that have ONLY 50 amp receptacles, you should see the grin on the local RV sales desk on the brisk sales of adaptors, since obviously many RVs have 30amp cords, and since most never expect to find this condition, they carry no 50-30 converter. |
Dale L. Waller (Happycampersrus)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, December 25, 2005 - 9:42 pm: | |
Those parks love a 30a cord rig just to sell an adapter. Looks like they have the game figured out $$$$.
I think it's just hilarious when my family and my friend's family go camping together and he has to be picky were he stays because he has a 50a cord. His factory built RV can't run on 30a service, but my ole bus can use either one. HA HA.
Dale |
John Jewett (Jayjay)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, December 25, 2005 - 10:19 pm: | |
Hey Ron, are you confused, or am I getting senile? IIRC, I thought we put a 120/240VAC 50 Amp service in your 4905. Did it shrink in that cold weather in Wisconsin? Cell munber is still the same...give me a call or use 239-694-6666.
Cheers...JJ |
John MC9
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, December 25, 2005 - 10:30 pm: | |
Uhh
- "you confused, or am I getting senile?"
- "Cell munber is still the same"
I guess..., ehh?
(call me on my cell phome)
HAR HAR.... Happy new year, JJ! |
Dale L. Waller (Happycampersrus)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, December 25, 2005 - 10:38 pm: | |
Gotta watch them eggnog shooters. They will really catch up quik. |
John MC9
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, December 25, 2005 - 11:01 pm: | |
The worst thing about "egg nog shooters", is the morning
after, hanging over the porcelain, wondering "where the
hell did -those- chunks come from?" |
FAST FRED
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, December 26, 2005 - 6:36 am: | |
"It sure beats the crap outta dogbone adapters or looking for 50a campgrounds. That way you can stay at the state parks and still have 2 AC's".
Every basement unit has this feature std.
While the 50A crowd moans for More More More juice ,
the PRICE will be the slower check in and cash deposit (or only departing when the office is open) to PAY for all electric used.
In FL a 15A circuit @(20c+ a KW) can cost the campground $7.00 a day,(plus taxes) 30A almost $15 , and the 50A probably more than the site costs.
Watch out what you WISH for , you may get it!
FAST FRED |
Dale L. Waller (Happycampersrus)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, December 26, 2005 - 8:11 am: | |
Fred,
That's my whole point. Set that rig up to run on the least amount of power, but still having the comforts of all of the appliances.
Are you seeing the higher end campgrounds installing a meter to charge for power yet??
I'm thinking it won't be to far in the future. At least for the big rig sites.
Dale |
FAST FRED
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, December 27, 2005 - 6:12 am: | |
EVERY "Destination Park" (where folks park for the "season") I have visited has meters.
AS does every "Trailer Park" for long term residency.
Not a hassle as the folks go down to ther Keys for 3-4 months and know well in advance when they will be departing , and get the meter read.
Most pay electric ("Hydro" in Canada speak) by the month , so no big supprise! at the end.
FAST FRED |
Dale L. Waller (Happycampersrus)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, December 27, 2005 - 8:17 am: | |
I thought as much for the season folks.
I'm waiting for at least the 50a pull through sites to add a meter with the power consumption of some of the 12,000 watt RV's.
Some of the rigs at we see at Myrtle Beach look like they use all 12K. LOL. I don't see how the campground comes out by renting a site for 30 to 40 bucks.
Half of the money is power use.
Dale |
FAST FRED
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, December 28, 2005 - 6:33 am: | |
"Half of the money is power use."
And the rest goes into water for 10 loads of laundry , the septic field for hundreds of gal of sewage , and the dumpster for 12 bags of barbage. from "boondockin" at Wallmart for 2 weeks!
FAST FRED |
Derek Reeves
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, January 30, 2006 - 6:29 pm: | |
Can you please help? I just graduted from college, and started a new job.It is 90 miles away from my current home and after gas got so high, plus the hrs on the road, I looked into something else. (Due to some poor choices in the past,I own a house that isn't worth as much as I owe against it, have a lot of bills, bad credit and I am very cash strapped.) My parents gave me a 24' 1979 prowler camper, and it turns out I have a 2nd cousin down here who said he would let me park it on some land he has down here that has water, sewer, and electric, and cable! With it being so close to the area I work(About 15 miles) I decided to do it! It is great! I love it! I have 2 problems however, and I have no idea where to go for help. PLEASE Advise if you can.
1. The furnace quit working and the repair man said that it can not be fixed dut to my furnance being some outdated kind that they do not make any more. Currently, I am using an electric heater.
2. I have a 4 gallon hot water heater that I can't stand! It is the only appliance I use that still on gas since the fride was replaced long ago with an electric model, and being a young single male, I don't cook except in Microwave.
I just bought this unit: Power Star AE 125 Electric Tankless Water Heater
240v 208v 28 kw 21kw
120 (3 x 40a) 101(3 x 40a)
8 ga. (6 connectors)
8 ga. (6 connectors)
Minimum 200 Amp Service
25 lbs. 15 1/2" x 15 1/4" x 4 1/2"
AE 125 Provides 3.0 gallons per minute for water usage at 115°f: example 2 sinks at once and dishwasher; or Provides 3.7 gallons per minute for water usage at 105°f example 2 sinks at once or 1 shower/bathtub.
I thought this would be great because it fits great where the old gas water heater was with slight mod. Except I do not know how to hook it up or even if I can. I do have 110 and 220 power at the source, but of course I only have a 110 box with 30 amp cord. Is there anyway to re-wire for this device? Also if there is, could I then instal a 5' electric baseboard heater that was gave to me that also runs on 220? Being that I only plan to use the camper in this situation for a few years, could I put up some kind of new box on a pole outside or something? Or, can it be fixed like normal to where if I ever get out of this mess, I could use it at a campground on vacation? Please help! Even if it is bad news! Thanks a lot. Helpless in North Carolina. |
Pete/RTS Daytona (Pete_rtsdaytona)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, January 30, 2006 - 7:56 pm: | |
Derek
That water heater draws over 100 amp at 240/208 volts - you don't need and most likely can not support that type of draw - even from your pole.
remember old RV parks are 30 amp at 120 or a TOTAL of 3.6 kw -- no where near your required 28/21KW - newer parks are twin 50 amp sevice - each leg 120 volt at 50 amps or 220 volts at 50 amps for a total of 11 kw
Go down to Lowes get yourself a 12 or 19 gallon 120 volt water heater (just under 200 bucks) -(approx 1500 watts or 12 amps @ 120 volts) -- 12 or 19 gallons is enough to have a nice hot shower for 4 to 6 minutes with the water at 3 Gallons per hour - use a water saver nozzle and extend that to 8 to 12 minutes -
Worst case mounted outside under a shed ?? - or put it under the sink ??
Then get yourself a new style safety switch cube heaters or ceramic heater - 1200/1500 watts (12 amp at 120 volts) will usually do - remember you'll most likely be paying for this electricity
your Microwave is about 1200/1500 watts (12 amp at 120) + plus whatever lighting - so with every thing on you exceed your 30 amp cord - we haven't even turned on a light or tv yet
you can have a switch installed so that you can switch it to microwave or water heater - but not both - that will get you back under 30 amps - but you will not be able to use the W/H and M/W togeteher (no big deal)
Pete RTS Daytona |
Pete/RTS Daytona (Pete_rtsdaytona)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, January 30, 2006 - 8:03 pm: | |
ooops - make that 3 gallons per minute (the average wasteful USA home shower rate ??) |
Derek Reeves
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, January 31, 2006 - 12:59 pm: | |
Thank you so much Pete! I found your advice very straightforward and knowledgeable. I got the first water heater at Lowes, so it will be easy enough to take it back and trade. I bought it for size/output only- I had no clue about the kwh! Obviously, I don't have much clue with electrial and RV period! Thanks again for your help!
Derek |