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dougtheboneifiedbusnut

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Posted on Tuesday, December 27, 2005 - 6:56 pm:   

Would like to speak directly to anyone who has done it themselves. thanks
Donald Lee Schwanke (Dontx)

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Posted on Tuesday, December 27, 2005 - 7:51 pm:   

I did, speak to me.
Gene Lewis (Genelewis)

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Posted on Tuesday, December 27, 2005 - 8:10 pm:   

I did also,what do U want to know?
dougtheboneifiedbusnut

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Posted on Tuesday, December 27, 2005 - 9:29 pm:   

Thanks Guys,
I think things like the type of paint that would be best to paint my Crown which is half aluminum and half steel. I dont think preparation is going to be an issue but I do need guidence as far as how to do such a big area. Should I use base coat / clear coat or with all the rivits will that system be problematic.I have more questions than I have time to spend typing so I would love too speak over the phone to someone willing to give me the time. If someone could email their # I will spend the dime for the call.
In advance thank you very much.
John Jewett (Jayjay)

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Posted on Tuesday, December 27, 2005 - 11:52 pm:   

Use PPG Urethane paint and the matching epoxy primer. Base coat clear cost is too thin and brittle for the flexing and stretching a bus does. Find an old Sharpe gun with the .600 head ( I think that's right) anyway, it's the one you pull the trigger on, and RUN the length of the bus with. Well not quite, but almost. A Binks #7 or even a #35 have too small of a head, and are too slow. Use a 2 quart cup, or better yet rent a pot. HVLP guns are too slow to paint such a large area, since the paint flashes over before you can get around to the overlap for adjoining passes. Use a #2 Dupont Guage and thin to about 15 to 17 seconds. All you guys that are ready to jump my bones about my statements and recommendations stop and try to remember how many busses (or large airplanes or large trucks) you have painted. Then ask how many I have done...successfully! No runs, No drips, Shiny all over, No orange peel! IIRC, Don Schwanke is an airplane driver and has painted big stuff too. Ask him!

Humidity, temperature etc, can wreak havoc, so pick your day, or have a really, really big paint booth. If painting outside, do it very early in the morning before the dust and bugs get stirred up.

Get a rolling scaffold, and hire help to push it alongside the bus while you run the gun. Anything less than the above guarantees iffy (or downright poor results.)

More questions? 239-694-6666 AFTER the Rally.

Good Luck, and Cheers...JJ
Craig (Ceieio)

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Posted on Wednesday, December 28, 2005 - 2:07 am:   

JJ - what do you think of painting sections, like the baggage doors individually?

I have seen show cars painted this way, but those also have a great deal of post-paint work on them that would not be fun on something as large as a bus. I am not sure that the rubbing out process is a result of painting in sections or more for the "mile deep" shine.

Anyway, what do you think of the section approach?

Craig - MC7 Oregon
Jim Shepherd (Rv_safetyman)

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Posted on Wednesday, December 28, 2005 - 9:59 am:   

The choice of primer is very important. I would not use anything less than two part epoxy. I used PPG DP48 which is a white primer with a slight sheen to it. Looks pretty good by itself. It will work great on both steel and aluminum. It can be top coated by any type of paint. There are primers that are used to build depth (primer/surfacer) and they are NOT (repeat NOT) protective coatings. They will rust in no time.

The PPG DP line has been my choice for many years and has always been called the super glue of paints. With reasonable preparation, it WILL stick forever and not permit any rust. It was often used UNDER bondo by the better shops to make sure the bondo stuck and that it would not come off due to rust (bondo will let water pass through if there is a slight crack in the cover material).

PPG DP48 (there are other numbers for other colors) costs about $100 plus the catalyst and thinner. In my opinion, it is money well spent for the protection.

Now for the sad news (at least for me), it appears that PPG has recently discontinued production of this paint. I have used it for over 20 years and don’t know how I can get by without it. I just bought some DP74 (red) less than eight months ago, so the decision is recent. I did find a site that seems to have the product at about half the price I paid (with supposedly a good discount):
http://www.midwestchemicals.com/DP48LF-DP402LF.htm

It looks like Dupont 2910 is about the same material.

One good wet coat should give you good protection and should look good if you want to stop at the primer step and paint the color coat later. Be very careful to wear breathing protection – this is some bad stuff to breath.

If you use DP48 (and probably any of the two part epoxy primers), you will need to sand it and recoat it before you apply any primer/surfacer or top coat if it sits for more that a few weeks.


Jim Shepherd
Evergreen, CO
’85 Eagle 10
http://rvsafetysystems.com Toll Free: 1**888**349**0704
Bus Project details: http://www.rvsafetysystems.com/busproject.htm (updated 2/17/05)
captain ron (Captain_ron)

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Posted on Wednesday, December 28, 2005 - 10:18 am:   

Have you ever tried sanding a 2part epoxy primer after it's cured, you'll ned a grinder. That stuff is tuff after it cures. I would sugest painting over it within a few days not weeks. I used it on my Harley Which I must sadly say I don't have any more, and waited too long before actualy painting it and the paint peeled off like a bumper sticker from it's backing. I sanded it but you just can't cut it after curing.
Ron
dougtheboneifiedbusnut

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Posted on Thursday, December 29, 2005 - 8:52 pm:   

This is why I love this board so much. Thank you all.The suggestions are just what I'm looking for.I hope I will not be imposing by calling you, JJ after the holidays.
John Jewett (Jayjay)

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Posted on Sunday, January 01, 2006 - 9:03 pm:   

Doug, I'm home now from a marvelous weekend in Arcadia, so call at your convenience.
Cheers...JJ

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