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Bill 4104

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Posted on Tuesday, January 10, 2006 - 6:35 pm:   

I would like to do some resin surfaces in the coach with little bits of whatever under the surface. Is it difficult to do ? and are there any little tricks to make it come out looking good . Thanks Bill 4104-4032
Lew Poppleton (Lewpopp)

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Posted on Tuesday, January 10, 2006 - 9:28 pm:   

Bill

Is it a glaze that you want like you see on some bars or homemade clocks?

If it is, I just finished pouring a complete set of panels to cover my dash and control panels.

I will continue, if that is the info you want.
John MC9

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Posted on Tuesday, January 10, 2006 - 9:56 pm:   

Many of the better home/hobby craft shops carry resin kits.
Although most of the kits are for smaller, craft projects, the
information and type of mix can put you in the right direction.

There's a fish restaurant down here that has tables with resin
tops, displaying shells, sand, and other aquatic items, inside
the resin.

One thing to note though... the resin can get scratched and
can become a little dull, with the items in it appearing fuzzy
and hard to discern.
Bill 4104

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Posted on Tuesday, January 10, 2006 - 10:09 pm:   

Lew---- Thats the type I was thinking of --Thanks ---Bill 4104-4032
FAST FRED

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Posted on Wednesday, January 11, 2006 - 5:41 am:   

Casting Epoxy is usually used and when scratched can be repolished with auto detailing buffer & compound..

FAST FRED
motorcoach1

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Posted on Wednesday, January 11, 2006 - 7:40 pm:   

bill:. most clear cast epoxy resins will build about 16th inch and if you would like it thicker use microballon only up to 14% for clarity or masking tape to dam it. that means you will have to damm each side to build it up in steps.The surface has to remain level till casting epoxy sets. if air bubbles occure during the pour process and some time after about 15- 20 minutes depending on the tempature you can remove the bubbles by useing a propane torch or heat gun. When appling things to be casted in do a thin cast first and scuff good and add topcoats. Lite scratches can be buffed out while deep scratches can be only removed by scuffing the whole pice and recoated and it is easy to do so have fun . just test a small piece and get the feel of it. heres a Ph # for supplys their industrail supplyer so if they turn you down don't feel bad but the products good 1-800-272-7890
Stephen Fessenden (Sffess)

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Posted on Wednesday, January 11, 2006 - 9:56 pm:   

You want to have the surface you are pouring over warm so it does not produce as many bubbles. The first sealer coat can be very thin, even thinned with acetone, but don't thin with acetone after that, since it weakens the epoxy. If you use too much hardener, the epoxy will be brittle. If you use too little, it will be soft. It is better to be a very slight amount short on hardener than to be over by 1%. With some epoxies, being 5% short on hardener makes the epoxy more flexible. Do not work in the sun. I have done that.

Epoxy does not stick to builders plastic sheeting (Visquene)so you can protect your floors and surrounding surfaces with it Visquine etc. You can make a raised frame of PVC pipe or wood to go under the visquine plastic sheets and stop the flow of spills. It will flow and drip when you think it is done. Just leave the spills for a day and pick them up.

I found that I could improve the spread of the epoxy with a professional window squeegee with the blade and frame waxed with Johnsons Paste Wax. I used a 12 inch squeegee with replaceable rubber blades and a frame that holds the blade rigid. I was using thin coats on book shelves and it would not always completely level before it set unless I helped it. You can make some beautiful counter tops with it. I made my guest house shower enclosure with cast epoxy over pecky cypress. Made each panel horizontal then installed the set of them.
Some people find a heat gun easier to use than a torch. Too much heat and it sets instantlly and rough. If you have a poor finish, just poor another coat over it. You may need to wipe down with acetone between coats. Some epoxies produce a blush or film over the surface that makes a poor bond with the next layer.

Formby's Refinishing gloves are good for epxoy work. Turn them inside out when done and rinse with acetone.

Actually it is all very easy after a little practice with decopage or clocks.
Lew Poppleton (Lewpopp)

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Posted on Wednesday, January 11, 2006 - 10:34 pm:   

Bill

I coated some very thin laminate wood purchased from www.constantines.com and you can pick out what you want right on line. The veneers are real wood backed with contact glue covered with a wax type paper. The waxed paper wonl't let the drips stick to the underside when you make your pours. Don't be afraid to overstir just prior to the pour. Makes curing much better.
FAST FRED

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Posted on Thursday, January 12, 2006 - 5:38 am:   

The real key with Epoxy is to SCRUB the surface with household detergent after its cured.

The hardner rises to the surface after its work is done and the hardener is NASTY stuff.

Joy or similar works well.

FAST FRED

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