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motorcoach1

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Posted on Tuesday, January 17, 2006 - 9:05 pm:   

Howdy just got my buss and in need of locking it up. i'm sure some one here has a suggestion. Thank you Mike
John MC9

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Posted on Tuesday, January 17, 2006 - 9:18 pm:   

A bicycle type padlock on the door opener button usually
does the trick until you add a deadbolt lock to the door.
motorcoach1

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Posted on Tuesday, January 17, 2006 - 9:23 pm:   

now john on my old blue bird i just took a big rat trap and wraped it in aluminum foil and put a fake handle on it ....wack... great alarm and no one went in. looking for something more professinal looking ..but thanks anyway
John MC9

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Posted on Tuesday, January 17, 2006 - 9:49 pm:   

Huh. I thought you were just looking for a quick and easy
"fix" until you found something better?

Do a search using the search engine here, using "door lock"
for all the words. You'll find a few dozen references for using
everything from conventional RV entrance lock assemblies,
to Freightliner entrance lock assemblies.

The "pin" type assemblies (like the car door locks) are safer,
since there can be some shifting of the chassis that can dislodge
some of the RV (and home type) striker locks.
Leslie Robinson (Lesrmc9)

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Posted on Tuesday, January 17, 2006 - 11:24 pm:   

http://www.gumpydog.com/bus/MC9_WIP/Mechanical/Door_Latch/door_latch.htm
John MC9

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Posted on Wednesday, January 18, 2006 - 12:22 am:   

Excellent , Les!

Chuck MC8 can also give you some pointers regarding
that door lock!
(photo 2)


Chuck has been my mentor. If I screw up BIG TIME,
I can blame him.
Eric Lake (Dc_bus_nut)

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Posted on Wednesday, January 18, 2006 - 1:11 am:   

Here's a good reference as well.

http://users.cwnet.com/~thall/FAST%20FRED.htm

Eric
Jim Bob

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Posted on Wednesday, January 18, 2006 - 8:19 am:   

I would not use the typical RV door latch. We have one on our bus (installed by a past owner). The problem is that the door itself wiggles up & down just a little as you go down the road. this makes the most annoying squeek come from the latch. (You'll notice that the original bus door closer avoids metal to metal contact!) We have tried all sorts of lubricants and finally settled on a dry graphite spray which does not come off on peoples hands & clothes like grease, Nev R Sieze, etc. The dry spray gives about 5-6 hours of travel per application.

IF you put a true door latch mechanism on, be sure it has the plastic tube over the striker bolt (like all modern vehicles use). This will prevent the squeek problem. Fast Fred's Freightliner latch is designed that way. Avoid the door latches that use a sliding metal bolt (like house doors).
Marc Bourget

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Posted on Wednesday, January 18, 2006 - 10:53 am:   

JTNG said:

The "pin" type assemblies (like the car door locks) are safer,
since there can be some shifting of the chassis that can dislodge
some of the RV (and home type) striker locks."

Just to clarify . .
By that comment do you mean the style of latch as opposed to the style of lock cylinder?

Couldn't some commercial delayed latches work equally as well? I know that Emergency Exit Doors Latches work with perimeter seals. They have about a 1-1/2" spring loaded latch securing the door. Wouldn't that satisfy a bus latch's needs? (Just for parking security, I'd still consider using the "air latch" for OTR purposes)

With many converters considering replacing two piece doors with a one piece, using stainless piano hinges, the amount of "drift" or movement seen in cars might not be as significant in a narrower bus door with a piano hinge.

FWIW, tossed out for discussion!
Chuck Lott (Chuckmc8)

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Posted on Wednesday, January 18, 2006 - 11:09 am:   

I have no problems with the RV latch and seperate deadbolt. It doesn't rattle or make any noise.
It would take a helluva hit to dislodge it. If the door is shaking enough to make the lock rattle,there are other issues causing that-not the lock itself-perhaps an unbalanced tire?
Chuck Lott (Chuckmc8)

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Posted on Wednesday, January 18, 2006 - 11:26 am:   

After re-reading my previous post, I didn't intend to say that the RV style lock was better than the Kenworth style-My bus already had the lock installedand I was just pointing out that I was not having trouble with it.
John MC9

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Posted on Wednesday, January 18, 2006 - 11:31 am:   

Marc -

"the style of latch"

Yessir. Although I may end up using the RV "striker type",
I would prefer to have the pin type.

The amount of movement and flexing the coach has during
travel, can cause the door to move out of alignment at times.
As mentioned, there can be some squeaking, etc. (I'm sure
that can be remedied), but I would be more concerned with
the door opening while traveling.... Buy hey, that too can be
avoided by making sure the deadbolt is locked prior to moving.

The common RV types are not as involving to install as those
truck types. The RV assemblies I looked at, are one piece
and do not require "control rods" to be manufactured and fit.
The door striker also fits flush to the jamb, making installation
a lot easier.
Dale Fleener (Dale_mc8)

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Posted on Wednesday, January 18, 2006 - 11:59 am:   

If you keep the air lock on the door functional (replace the switch at the driver's opening control with a dash mounted switch) you would have both the original, non-squeaky, latch while traveling and a secure, easily used latch while parked. Just have to remember to disengage the air lock when stopping and engaging it while on the road. Maybe a lighted switch to remind you.
FWIW
Dale MC8
Sojourner (Jjimage)

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Posted on Wednesday, January 18, 2006 - 12:32 pm:   

My experience with MCI-8 traveling 12000 mile with door squeaking was due to mild tire unbalance. Coach body transmit small shake from left rear dual to cause entrance door to move up & down so slightly but enough to squeak in MCI’s latch & worn-broken seals.

Pin type striker plate will limitate free movement for that area.

Only problem is clothes or your body get nagged some time while passing thorough.

A plastic guard is available to prevent this. It mounted on “pin” plate so that plastic collapse when door close.

Gumpy’s site explains his insulation in step by step;
http://www.gumpydog.com/bus/MC9_WIP/Mechanical/Door_Latch/door_latch.htm

Thank to gumpy for provide his time & effort getting site available to share his knowledge.

FWIW

Sojourn for Christ, Jerry
motorcoach1

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Posted on Wednesday, January 18, 2006 - 6:05 pm:   

Thank you ..looked at Grumpydogs and freds lock/latch assemebly and that looks real good think I'll go with that setup. hehehe john you didn't like my rat trap door latch , it realy worked good ! but you had to replace the trap I could never find it foils cheep lol. not trying to be cheep but have a friend that has a turck junk yard and i'm sure he's got bunches of them
John MC9

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Posted on Thursday, January 19, 2006 - 12:58 am:   

With an electric fence adapter, it would have been great!

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