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Mark Scott

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Posted on Monday, January 23, 2006 - 7:55 pm:   

The use of rubber heater hose 1.25" ID, what are your thoughts from the PVC sink trap to the grey/black tank. My situation requires several bends from the kitchen sink area, into the vanity sink area then into the tank. I think as long as I have suffient "fall" from the trap, this allows for a simple, no joint drain line. I look forward to your comments. Mark
John MC9

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Posted on Monday, January 23, 2006 - 8:19 pm:   

"They" already have such things on the market. I used one
under our home kitchen sink. Flexible rubber hose works fine!
Just keep in mind, that the rubber can kink easily, or be sucked
shut by the vacuum when you discharge the waste tank.
Jim Stewart (H3jim)

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Posted on Monday, January 23, 2006 - 8:39 pm:   

If you use such a small drain line, you have to be thoughtful about how many and where you put your drain line vents. With a pipe that small, it will typically fill with water when it is draining, so if you have not provided adequate venting, the drains will glug and bubble. It "may" also drain slower than you would like.

I used 2" pipe throughout, a bit overkill, but I only have one vent line. Its large enough that when water is going one way, air can go the other. Since I put in the single 2" vent to the roof of the bus, I have had zero smells back up from the black tank, and no gurgles or glugs from any of the drains, no matter what angle I'm parked at (no leveling yet).

The ABS pipe is also quite slick on the inside, and would be less likely to plug with hair / grease.

Typcial fall in house systems is 1/8 inch drop per foot of run. I used at least 1/4 or more on all my runs to help compensate for off level parking.

Use the 45 degree ells if need be for your bends. In some cases (although not the bus)I have used a heat gun to soften, then bend plastic pipe for those special circumstances. Using the solvent ABS cement, makes teh pipe and fitting "as one", you will break the pipe before you break the joint, extremely tough stuff.

What will you use as a Tee when you join the kit drain with the vanity drain? Lots of standard fittings for that in ABS.

Using rubber pipe will also require connections other than the standard ABS cement and fittings. The standard drain fittings and pipe is pretty easy to work with, works well, is inexpensive and lasts forever. Why reinvent it?

Lastly, when I do a job like that, it seems I can never plan exactly just how I will run the pipes, no matter how much thought I put into it. I have replumbed many houses and apartments over the years. I fight back and just buy lots of all the various fittings, then take advantage of Home Depot's great return policy and bring all the usused fittings back when I'm done.
Jon W.

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Posted on Monday, January 23, 2006 - 8:57 pm:   

Sometimes you have to be careful about piping. The reason for 1/8" to 1/4" per foot is to assure drainage, but not have the amount of fall so steep that solids are not carried.

Since this is for a sink it will not have to carry the solids such as from a toilet, but if you have excessive food stuff or hair, a large fall will allow the water to drain rapidly leaving solids in the line. In a house with frequent use that may not be a problem, but if the coach sits for period of time and the solids dry and hang on the hose you will eventually have a blockage.

The comments made by Jim are very valid, especially about venting.
Geoff (Geoff)

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Posted on Tuesday, January 24, 2006 - 8:05 am:   

Mark-- what you want is not "heater hose"--what I used in my bus was flexible reinforced rubber hose with copper fittings and clamps to make sharp 90 degree turns. This hose will not kink. They sell some at Home Depot in the plumbing department, but the size I needed was slightly smaller so I had to get the hose from a hose wholesaler. Some people call this hose "spa hose" because it is what a lot of spas use.

--Geoff
'82 RTS CA
Jerry Liebler (Jerry_liebler)

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Posted on Tuesday, January 24, 2006 - 8:30 am:   

Mark,
With a combined grey/black tank only 'dry' vents are permitted by code and the vent must be at least 1 1/2" pipe through the roof. What this means is there must be a vent from the tank through the roof that doesn't also carry waste water. As has been suggested just get a few of every concievable fitting and a couple of lengths of PVC pipe at Lowes or Home Depot then fit it all together and return the extra fittings. The glue joints are actually solvent welds so it's like a no joint line when done. I used rubber couplings, one above my waste tank and one below my kitchen sink so I can easily remove the whole kitchen drain line if ever needed. I'd certainly recommend sticking with 1 1/2" or even 2" drain lines and seperate lines all the way to the tank for the shower,kitchen and vanity.
Regards
Jerry 4107 1120
niles steckbauer (Niles500)

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Posted on Tuesday, January 24, 2006 - 6:23 pm:   

Rubber Drain LIne - No Way - Your asking for trouble - ABS or PVC only - JMTC - Niles
Geoff (Geoff)

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Posted on Tuesday, January 24, 2006 - 6:43 pm:   

After reading what Niles said, I thought I would track down the stuff I used-- it not exactly "rubber", which is used commonly now to describe anything that is flexible, but is actually PVC hose, and highly durable in extreme conditions:

http://www.uniflex.co.il/spa_hos.php

I am using this hose in my bus and it is flexible and more durable than your usual ABC pipe-- it is not going to crack from stress.

--Geoff
'82 RTS AZ
niles steckbauer (Niles500)

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Posted on Tuesday, January 24, 2006 - 7:05 pm:   

Geoff - I meant PVC and ABS 'Rigid' pipe - even PVC Hose will become a problem when the hose sags and starts clogging - the hose you are using is for pressurized fluid, not the gravity fed lines you installed - if used in a macerator system on the pressure side it would be fine - Sorry I wasn't clearer in my prior post - HTH - Niles

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