| Author | Message | ||
| Jim Shepherd (Rv_safetyman)
Rating: N/A |
I would like to know what you all use to treat the waste in the black tank. I attended a seminar at the Caverns a while back and the folks selling special vent caps suggested using septic tank treatment instead of typical RV chemicals. They said it would save a lot of money. Now that we have the bus almost ready to go (I hope), we will have to deal with a large tank and infrequent dumping when dry camping. I want to make sure we use the best chemical that will keep the smell within reason and break down the solids. I did a google search on RV toilet treatment (in Groups), and found a ton of threads, but nothing that jumped out as the best solution. Thought I would try my favorite bus board. I do this with fear and trepidation as this could lead to a bunch of posts that really don’t address the question – grin. Jim Shepherd Evergreen, CO ’85 Eagle 10 | ||
| Gary Stadler (Boogiethecat)
Rating: N/A |
The stuff I use is "Eco-Save" brand from JWH Distributors, Box 195, Santa Rosa, CA 95402. (800) 950-9666 or (707) 579-0643. www.eco-save.com It works better than anything else I've ever used. Liquid and dry versions are avaliable but I like the liquid stuff. It's nice because it works well, keeps smells away, and more than everything else, it's not toxic to humans, septic tanks, or the environment. Many others use formaldehyde and nasty toxic chems.... good stuff to stay away from! | ||
| Dale Fleener (Dale_mc8)
Rating: N/A |
Check the ingredients of any other-than-RV chemical you might use to be sure that they won't attack the dump valve seals and/or the tank material. I have heard of people using homemade chemicals that did contain these things with stinky results. Just FYI Dale | ||
| Kyle Brandt (Kyle4501)
Rating: N/A |
I thought Phred Tinseth covered the bases pretty well - http://www.phrannie.org/macerator.html It may help remind you of a few things. Good luck, kyle4501 | ||
| niles steckbauer (Niles500)
Rating: N/A |
Kyle - that's one of the best articles on Waste tanks, black and grey, that I've seen - probably needs (with Author's permission) to go in "articles of interest" - Thanks - Niles | ||
| John MC9 Rating: N/A |
The RV stuff has a deodorant included. The cesspool stuff does not have any odor stopping chemicals, and generally uses enzymes to help decompose the *%^#, and helping to provide even more of the well respected fragrance. Yeast, does the same thing... Just don't drink the fermented juice. BTDT | ||
| Jim Shepherd (Rv_safetyman)
Rating: N/A |
Kyle, thanks for the link. I had read the article quite a while ago and had forgotten about it. Looks like Gary read the article and is impressed with the "Eco-Save" as well. I remember all too well the formaldehyde days. When we moved in about 30 years ago, I was glad to see a "trailer dump" to our septic system. We did not use it, but apparently the first owners did. Within a short period our leach field went bad. I am sure that this very expensive repair was the result of the formaldehyde killing the bacteria in the system. Jim | ||
| Jim Stewart (H3jim)
Rating: N/A |
A septic sytem expert that has been maintaining septec tanks in my area for 30 years says that all the enzyme and bacteria additives to septic tanks are a waste of $, that the best thing for a tank is a good poop. Lots of live bateria, from the best source. Holding tanks are a lot like septic tanks. You want them to have active bacteria to break down the solids etc. I expect I may get slammed for this, but I have never used any chemicals of any kind in my holding tanks. As long as I have had a good vent pipe (I use 2" all the way to the roof), I have never had any odor problems. When I dump, there are few solids left, just that wonderful brown tea. Since I have a big tank, I also don't dump really often, but let it mellow for a while as well. I do have a venturi type cap on the top of the vent, so theoretically it sucks air out through the vent. I repeat, I do not use anything to treat the tanks except what I already ate, and I do not have any odor propblems. Either I'm really lucky, my nose is burned out and can't smell or ?? Whats wrong with this approach? It sure does save $ on chemicals, and I know I'm not hurting any dump site with it since its all natural. No odor when I'm parked and using it or not, no odor when I'm driving and someone flushes. Typical odor when dumping. Am I missing anything here (other than the smell and the expense) | ||
| Ron Walker (Prevost82)
Rating: N/A |
There's a link to "the Geo Method" Many RV'er say it works great ans is cheap http://home.mindspring.com/~cbruni/index.html Ron | ||
| Richard Bowyer (Drivingmisslazy)
Rating: N/A |
Jim, my experience was similar to yours. Typically I did not use any chemicals in the holding tanks and never had objectionable odors. Even with the toilet valve open, it seems the odors went up the vent, not back into the bathroom. The only time I had odors in the coach was once I had a seal go bad on the toilet and a couple of times the traps on the sink or shower went dry. At least it does not cost anything to explore this approach. Richard | ||
| John MC9 Rating: N/A |
"I do not use anything to treat the tanks except what I already ate, and I do not have any odor problems." Ah-Hah! Must be a Prevost guy. Everybody knows their *^%$ don't stink! (ok, ok.... settle down...just kiddin' here) | ||
| Jon W. Rating: N/A |
I'm a Prevost guy and I know mine sure does. But I just blame the dog. | ||
| R.J.(Bob) Evans (Bobofthenorth)
Rating: N/A |
We use Sept Tabs - they're cheap, designed for farm septic tanks and probably don't do any good but they make us feel like we are doing something. I think the key, as Jim has suggested, is to not dump very often. Even when we are hooked up at the lake we only dump when the black tank gets right full. | ||
| Marc Bourget Rating: N/A |
Here's a little piece of info I picked up from the "Geo Method" link that never occurred to me. Simple and elegant! [text follows] "When my RV is parked and not in use I place stoppers in the sink and tub drains. This forces the wastewater tanks to vent through the vent pipes to the outside instead of through the drains into the RV. Water evaporates. Once the drain traps dry out during periods of non-use, nothing is there to prevent gasses (odor) from venting into the camper. Use stoppers when your RV is stored." In all the years and all the posts, I've never seen this point on the bus BBs. Must be forgetful, it couldn't be so simple! | ||
| John MC9 Rating: N/A |
"Once the drain traps dry out during periods of non-use, nothing is there to prevent gasses (odor) from venting into the camper. Use stoppers when your RV is stored." "In all the years and all the posts, I've never seen this point on the bus BBs. Must be forgetful, it couldn't be so simple!" Most all RVrs from the cold areas drain and clean the tanks prior to storing. That includes draining the traps (no frozen traps), and bleaching the holding tanks. I can't remember having fumes permeate the RV... Just capping the drains wouldn't do much anyway, since the toilet overflow cannot be plugged easily. | ||
| Marc Bourget Rating: N/A |
John I was figuring more for dealing with smell source while underway, not long term parking. FWIW | ||
| Richard Bowyer (Drivingmisslazy)
Rating: N/A |
I have been told that a small amount of veggie oil in each drain trap will virtually eliminate the dry trap syndrome. Of course in the winter time there should be non toxic antifreeae in them also. Richard | ||
| John MC9 Rating: N/A |
Richard - Up north, we used common windshield washer anti-freeze to -flush- during winter. The stuff usually sells for under a buck a gallon, doesn't hurt gaskets, etc, and is good to -20. That "non-toxic" stuff is for the fresh water tank and system, and way too expensive to use for the waste tanks! Marc - Most often, the holding tank stench will enter through an empty toilet overflow (trap), rather than a sink trap.. It's a commonly overlooked thing. The toilet should be filled and the water allowed to run out the overflow prior to use, to insure there's water in that trap. If that's neglected, gases can enter through the overflow.. and usually while you drive. phewie. Washing out the holding tank with bleach can eliminate any foul odors while it's not being used.. (sometimes while used) | ||
| Marc Bourget Rating: N/A |
I used to squirt a little water into the trailer toilet after use. If it remained, the seal was good, sealed until went down if not, and, by it's absence, indicated when I was "at risk" for stinky stuff. Bleach, if sufficient concentration to kill the "good" (aerobic) bacteria, is what leaves the anerobic critters around to make the bad smells. FWIW Anybody know of anyone that tried a bubbler apparatus - like with an aquarium? Onward and Upward. | ||
| Cory Dane Rating: N/A |
Oh my now Marc Are you now arreating to keep pets in the black tank??? Strange type of pets, I'd say. Seriously, I'd heard that arreating the tank had some effects but don't recall the exact result. I am thinking the smell was reduced or eliminated. I read this a long time ago, I think it was here, might be in the archive. A black tank for pets, really Marc CD | ||
| Richard Bowyer (Drivingmisslazy)
Rating: N/A |
Marc, the seal around the valve is one area of odors, however, there is a small hole about halfway up the back of the toilet that is an overflow and has a trap in it. It dries out pretty quick. After I finally found this to be the source of odors getting into DML, I sealed with silicone. Richard | ||
| Marc Bourget Rating: N/A |
Richard, Thanks. Not having one at hand, is the hole something a judicious aim of the rinser will tend to replenish? CD, Aerating would tend to make life impossible for the critters that generate the "smell", at the same time, it'd make the "environment" better for the benevolent critters. It's like feeding the cat and poisoning the rat at the same time, IYKWIM | ||
| John MC9 Rating: N/A |
The overflow can be filled with the rinser, but it's easier and 100% John MC9-proof, to just fill the bowl until it runs through the overflow. That also will give you the peace of mind, that the overflow actually works. If you've never had a rinse valve go berserk and continue to pump water into the bowl after the user has left, you don't know what you're missing. The overflow is there for good reason. | ||
| Richard Bowyer (Drivingmisslazy)
Rating: N/A |
That is also a good reason to have a water pump on-off switch in the coach. Personally I never had a rinse valve go berserk and continue filling in my 30 odd years of motor homing, but I am sure it can happen. Richard | ||
| John MC9 Rating: N/A |
You're talking to the original "Joe Btfsplk", Richard..  We left a rest area and the pump switch was left on. The bowl filled and the overflow was plugged (go figure?), and we had water running down the isle... Not pleasant. | ||
| Richard Bowyer (Drivingmisslazy)
Rating: N/A |
Yep, not fun I am sure. I suspect a lot of water could accumulate in a relative short period of time. I always tried to keep my pump shut off when travelling, but I have to admit that I forgot many times to turn it off. With a separate rinse hose it should be relatively easy to keep the the trap full. A kitchen sink rinse hose is a great convenience for removing skid marks. I had one of those also. Richard | ||
| John MC9 Rating: N/A |
While we're beating this topic to death..... I'd like to have a three-way pump switch, with one on the dash. In fact, having light switches, etc wired as three-ways, and dash operable, would be even better. One glance at a lighted switch and flick it off... How many times have I forgotten to turn off the propane water heater? Too many. Jim said: "I did a google search on RV toilet treatment (in Groups), and found a ton of threads, but nothing that jumped out as the best solution. Thought I would try my favorite bus board. I do this with fear and trepidation as this could lead to a bunch of posts that really don’t address the question – grin. " And here we are.... again... Good venting of the black/grey tank(s) is mandatory in any effort to keep the stench to a minimum, regardless of added chemicals, or none.... |