| Author |
Message |
captain ron (Captain_ron)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, January 26, 2006 - 12:14 pm: | |
my fast Idle will kick it's self off and back on.is this normal? my old bus didn't do this.
when I went to leave my trailer lights and rear markers and tail lights would go off for a while and come back on for a while. I finaly took all the marker bulbs out of the trailer and was able to get them to stay on. can you guys help me with a relay or something to eliminate this problem?
I have an air leak some where. it takes a while for my air to build up and if I jockey the bus around and use the brakes alot I get low air buzzer. |
Bryce Gaston (Busted_knuckle)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, January 26, 2006 - 12:32 pm: | |
No Ron this is not normal, what type engine do you have? Is it mechanical or electronic controled? There can be many causes for all the problems you list, need a little more info to narrow down! You can call me at 731-885-7460 and I'll try to help ya! Bryce Gaston aka; Busted Knuckle |
Stan
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, January 26, 2006 - 1:34 pm: | |
Rear marker lights are fed off a breaker in the rear panel. It is an automatic reset breaker so your trailer lights are overloading the circuit breaker and it goes off and on.
The proper fix is to take voltage from the rear panel bus bar to a new circuit breaker, then to the contacts of a relay and then to the trailer lights. Connect the relay coil to the bus rear marker lights and ground. |
Cliff (Floridacracker)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, January 26, 2006 - 1:50 pm: | |
Ron,
Trailer lights:
Sounds like you are drawing to many amps through a smart breaker(resets after cool down automatically)
You will probably need to add a relay or go to LED's. Relay is probably cheaper.
Air:
I had the same problem at first, hook up some shop air, chock the wheels and hunt for leaks, if none show up then have some one apply the brakes and listen, next set the parking brake and check.
Good luck
Cliff |
Henry 96A3 (Hank)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, January 26, 2006 - 2:24 pm: | |
Ron,
Regarding the air: had a similar problem with my air. There's a thread about it from about a month ago. Definitely hook up shop air. I found a bunch of leaks in the engine compartment that couldn't be heard while the engine was running (mostly originating from the Pressure Regulating Valves that control belt tension and shutter cylinders). Also follow the DOT airbrake test for brake chamber leaks and the bus manual to troubleshoot compressor, govenor, airdryer and general system. Yeah, it's that easy! Good luck.
Henry 96A3 |
David Dulmage (Daved)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, January 26, 2006 - 2:29 pm: | |
Ron,
I'd check for a leaking DD3 brake chamber. Since fast idle doesn't operate until the air pressure is high enough to shut off the low air buzzer, this might also be the casue of your fast idle coming on and off.
DaveD |
Droote
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, January 26, 2006 - 4:05 pm: | |
Ron,
I ran into this when I rewired a bus at U-Haul when I found out later MCI's have a 12V alternator. (Check archives) http://www.busnut.com/bbs/messages/233/10670.html?1121081759 I'm unsure if you have the same set-up or not. They guy was towing a 12v 14 foot non U-Haul trailer. I used a 12 power supply box(also available at many auto parts stores) that includes the 4 light to 3 light converter (Separate turn signal inputs into the brake filamants). It boosts the power for the light system. I wired the power feed to the alternator as normal, and the rest of the lights in the routine set-up.
If you are rigged as above, the wiring is fairly simple to connect: Red, braking; Yellow, Left signal; Green, right signal; Brown, running lights; ground wire and power wire with provded fuse. Be sure to wire the box on the drivers side, which should be obvious considering the wire length they give you. The most difficult part was running the green (and longer)right signal wire cleanly across the back of the coach so it would not catch on anything or serve as an eyesore. If you are running 24V, then perhaps the other information presented here may be more useful.
One other thing: I don't trust the boxes to last more than a year or two with constant use in heavy driving under inclimate weather, such as what you have described in the past. I believe you may have stated Wisconsin winters can be difficult, to say the least. The boxes are rugged, and will last the "average" driver for years. They use a simple diode system, and can handle some pretty wide fluctuations in current. Yet failures will occur due to extreme heat/cold cycles, vibration, salt/water corrosion, short circuiting in the trailer itself etc. I have not seen them cause any damage to other systems at burnout. The trailer lights simply failed at the most innopportune time, such as on the road at midnight. Keep a spare. Fortunately, replacement is easy, even in the dark, in the snow, at minus gawdawful degrees, with a flashlight and a standard wire cutting/crimping tool.
Hope this helps.
Doug Roote. |
David Hartley (Drdave)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, January 26, 2006 - 6:20 pm: | |
Ron,
Is your bus 24 volt?
Are your trailer lights 12 volt?
Do you have a converter/relay box to step the 24 volt turn signals, markers and brake lights down from 24 volt to 12 volt? |
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