Author |
Message |
bruce knee (Bruceknee)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Friday, February 17, 2006 - 10:06 pm: | |
I think spray foam is out of reach for me at $3. sq. ft. that I have been quoted. I am sort of thinking 11/2 foam board and foam in a can to tighten it up. Foil bubble wrap stuff? If I use foam board, do I glue it to the skin? Thanks |
Jerry Liebler (Jerry_liebler)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Friday, February 17, 2006 - 10:47 pm: | |
Bruce, Urethane or polyiso- foam board (I used 'Rmax brand) sealed with foam in a can is very likely as good as spray foam. I used 3 & 4, in the ceiling, layers of 1/2" as that's all that's available near me. I got it for an average of $8/4x8 sheet & used 70 sheets. It's a lot of cutting and fitting so it does take some time. properly fitted you don't need any glue & the foam in a can will cement it all together. Since I have a GM bus there is a lot of curve to the ceilings, I cut 1/4" deep saw kerfs on the inside with a very small (4 1/2" Makita) circular saw, wear a mask if you do this. The foil and bubble is a radiant barrier that depends on an air gap, in my opinion it's a fraud. Regards Jerry 4107 1120 |
Pete/RTS Daytona (Pete_rtsdaytona)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Friday, February 17, 2006 - 11:03 pm: | |
Bruce I used Rmax multiple 1/2" and 3/4" 4x8 sheets used sprayable contact cement in a cheap Harbor Freight spray gun to glue it to the skin - was super easy - keep the windows open and 2 fans going - wear a mask (spray at high pressure 60-80 lb - comes out like cotton candy (that's good) - never enpty the gun - just always keep it full - always pull the trigger halfway for air only to purge glue from the nozzle when you put it away - plug the air hole - put it in a plastic bag) - stays for months and months Pete RTS/Daytona |
John MC9
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Friday, February 17, 2006 - 11:43 pm: | |
Bruce - I used 2" foam board from Home Depot, at around $10 per 4x8sheet. The spray foam in the can adheres to anything, including the foam board. I used that as the adhesive, by applying small dollops and quickly putting the foam board in place. I then spray foamed around the board, insuring a complete seal. Shave off the excessive foam with any long bladed knife out of the kitchen drawer.... Or a hack saw blade, in the event the wife catches you trying to take her roast beef knife. \image |
John MC9
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Friday, February 17, 2006 - 11:45 pm: | |
Image doesn't work? Lemme try this:
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Ed Roelle (Ed_roelle)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Saturday, February 18, 2006 - 8:22 am: | |
I don't know where you are, but I think your quote is out-of-line. A fellow I know got his pole barn done for $.62/sq.ft. at 1 1/2" thick. - cash. I was quoted about a $1.03/sq. ft. for my barn 2 days ago. 12 years ago, I had my bus foamed for $425 - although I did have quotes of $1300. I would estimate that there are many spray foamers in the United States that will do the job for $1000. today. This is assuming that you would level the surface. Besides insulating value and sealing, spray foam provides significant structure to fiberglass panels. One fellow bus nut said he would never use foam board and small cans of spay foam again. It took him a very long time to do the work. Shop for a better price for having your bus foamed if that is what you want. Ed Roelle Flint, MI |
Marc Bourget
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Saturday, February 18, 2006 - 8:55 am: | |
I am intrigued by the DIY kits, simply because the construction process is so convoluted, etc. that It makes sense to do it in steps. The Kits are cheaper than bringing the "pro" back multiple times. |
John MC9
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Saturday, February 18, 2006 - 8:55 am: | |
Bruce - Ed's points are well founded. It depends on the amount you're doing. If it's just the windows, etc., (as in my case), the boards work well. I wouldn't try to do the entire bus structure that way, though. You'd be cutting the boards for a few weeks, to fit all the areas between the ribs. And trimming the foam joints would be a pain, if it were the entire bus worth. |
Cliff (Floridacracker)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Saturday, February 18, 2006 - 2:33 pm: | |
Bruce, I used the Rmax 3/4 inch in two layers. One was glued between the ribs with a dab of cheap adhesive cement. The second was put between the 1X4 strips I ran. My reasons: 1-Could't make up my mind on were everything was absolutley going to go. 2-Cheaper 3-Work at my own pace.(no mass prep before spray) 4-Did I mention cheaper. 5-I am one of those nuts thats like to do it all. Of course on my next conversion I will have it all figured out in advance and just spray it! Ha! Cliff |
dug
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Saturday, February 18, 2006 - 7:37 pm: | |
I also used 2 layers of .75 RMAXX. It does insulate well. However, I was burning some garbage, and threw some scraps in to see how it responded. To my dismay, it burst into flames. Wish I would have known this before. I wonder how resistant foam spray foam would be. HTH, Dug 75 MC8 Arcadia, FL |
vern rainville
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Saturday, February 18, 2006 - 8:34 pm: | |
I have done some of the 1 1/2" rmax to the belly floor of the bus. I used a roto zip tool ( the same tool used by drywallers) and it went quick. A spray foam can at most to "touch up" the imperfections, altough I did use maybe 1 or 2 cans at most. Vern (in RI) |