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captain ron (Captain_ron)

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Posted on Tuesday, March 07, 2006 - 10:18 pm:   

I called around today looking for afordable compact appliances to no avail. I want a small fridge 24 inches wide and about 60 inches high but the one I found were 30 inches deep. I would like to keep around 24 or 25 inches deep. and reasonably priced.
on the washer dryer it was mainly price that was the issue, the smaller the set the bigger the price. and couldn't find anything in propane unless I go to a rv store and pay their prices.
some of the stacked sets were 220 only and the washer had to plug into the dryer to get the 110 it needs. I don't have a problem using all elec if I have to but prefer propane. can I convert natural gas to propane? with reasonable ease and cost. any help here?
JW Smythe (Jwsmythe)

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Posted on Tuesday, March 07, 2006 - 10:46 pm:   

I was reading up on converting natural gas to propane. It seems in most newer appliances are easy. You'll need to adjust the regulator, which should involve switching a cap over. Then there may be some secondary adjustments. All in all, if it's a newer appliance, it won't cost you anything. If it's an older appliance, you may be spending say $10 to $40 for new regulators.

Have a look at this:

http://www.premierrange.com/faq-rangeconversion.htm
niles steckbauer (Niles500)

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Posted on Tuesday, March 07, 2006 - 10:49 pm:   

as far as the appliance goes they usually have a reversing orofice or a seperate one that comes with it
Jerry Liebler (Jerry_liebler)

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Posted on Tuesday, March 07, 2006 - 10:56 pm:   

Ron,
Check out the Avanti 653 & 651 It has a 1.7 cu ft freezer and a 4.6 cu ft refrigerator section. I added 1" of insulation to the sides, back, bottom and 2" to the top. I used rmax. It droped the already reasonable power usage by about 30%. With the insulation it's 24" wide. As I recall I paid about $350 including shipping.
Regards
Jerry 4107 1120
Nick Badame Refrigeration Co. (Dnick85)

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Posted on Tuesday, March 07, 2006 - 10:58 pm:   

Ron,

Yes you can convert nat gas appliances to LP, and very cheaply. Most are available in either Lp or Nat gas or, will supply you with a LP conversion Kit. Kits consist of smaller orfices, spring for gas valve, warning lables, and instructions on how to set up for elevation!

Word of warning for any combustion appliance operated without makeup air in RV's. Without proper combustion air you can cause very serios
harm or death to you and your occupents by, starving the appliance of oxygen, causing a possible burn through! in the combustion box!!!!

Nick-
David (Davidinwilmnc)

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Posted on Tuesday, March 07, 2006 - 11:06 pm:   

Capt,

Have you checked at Lowes for 'fridges? Here's one that our local stores have in stock. It looks like it might be what you're looking for (they have it in black and stainless, too)

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=209768-46-ET0WSRXMQ&lpage=no ne

You might check there for washers & dryers.

Here's http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=169292-2251-GLGQ642AS&lpage= none
Bryce Gaston (Busted_knuckle)

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Posted on Tuesday, March 07, 2006 - 11:37 pm:   

Ron you might wanna also check out the salvage places RV and residental both as with the Hurricanes alot of House trailers were damaged and could have useable units in them. BK
FAST FRED

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Posted on Wednesday, March 08, 2006 - 6:15 am:   

"and reasonably priced"

Beware the "price" for a fridge is NOT its first cost , it is the cost in creating the power to keep it operating if you ever decide to go boondockin.

Usually an efficency buck spent will save $3.00 to $5.00 in operating costs ,
and your ears & fellow campers lungs too.

FAST FRED
Brian Elfert

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Posted on Wednesday, March 08, 2006 - 8:13 am:   

Beware that the listed maximum current draw on the Whirlpool is 6.5 amps if I recall correctly. I am assuming the listed amperage is with the defroster running which can usually be disabled.

I found a Haier at my local Menards that is manual defrost and claims a draw of 1.2 amps. It is $320 and is a double door so it has seperate freezer. Menards also had a single door fridge with a small freezer compartment inside, but that drew more amps.

One thing I don't know how to check is how well insulated the fridges are. Low running amps doesn't help if the thing runs all the time.

Brian Elfert
Henry 96A3 (Hank)

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Posted on Wednesday, March 08, 2006 - 8:37 am:   

I thought this was pretty neat...
https://mds.bussvc.wisc.edu/swap/product.asp?mscsID=&auction_id=8322

Unfortunately auction is almost up and I don't think they ship.
Henry 96A3
Tom Caffrey (Pvcces)

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Posted on Wednesday, March 08, 2006 - 10:40 pm:   

One other thing that affects refrigerator power draw is if it is a cycle defrost. These do not use power to defrost the fridge, and the freezer is a manual defrost.

They treat the food pretty good, too. We have one in our household, and we won't be going back to a full frostfree if we can help it.

For what it's worth.

Tom Caffrey PD4106-2576
Suncatcher
Ketchikan, Alaska
FAST FRED

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Posted on Thursday, March 09, 2006 - 6:19 am:   

"One thing I don't know how to check is how well insulated the fridges are. Low running amps doesn't help if the thing runs all the time."

Actually the most efficent operating profile IS to operate cont.

All of the new fan$y marine units will actually slow the compressor to operate 50 min an hour at reduced amps.

The Mfg wanted to let them run a more efficent 60 min per hour , but folks thought the units were broken.

To get a handle on a box to see if it is suitable for DC refrigeration on boats we would get a big block of ice.

Place the ice inside and wait 24 hours for the temps to stabelize , then weigh the ice , wait 24 or 48 hours and weigh it again.

IF the box consumes LESS than 5 lbs of ice weight per day (24hrs) it is a candidate for battery power.

Might be hard to do at Sears , but it works .

FAST FRED

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