| Author |
Message |
Bill Collier
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, March 08, 2006 - 8:39 pm: | |
I do not plan to install my AC’s right now (I want to wait a year or two or maybe never). I will install head outs, run the wires and condensate lines now before I close up above the ceiling. As I look at the website for installing the Penguin low profile AC I can not see where I would attach a condensate drain line.
1)Can someone tell me where I should have it penetrate the roof? I assume it will not be going in the 14 ¼” X 14 ¼” opening.
2) Will it be on curb side, street side, or possibly which ever side is lower? I will be installing the units off center.
3) What size for the copper pipe, I heard bigger is better but not sure what actual size, I am considering 1/2 inch.
I plan to run the condensate drain line (copper piping) between roof and ceiling then inside a wall down to luggage bay floor.
Thanks
Bill MC9
And thanks everyone who gave me input, links and opinions for buying my fridge, this board is invaluable! As I get more experience I hope to pass on the good will. |
Nick Badame Refrigeration Co. (Dnick85)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, March 08, 2006 - 8:55 pm: | |
Bill,
The penguin model does not drain through your coach. They run off the roof if they create too much condensation for the condencer fan to evaporate over the coils.
You can fabricate a pan that your gasket and A/C will set in, than a drain hole can be installed to be drained as you wish!
Hope this helps
Nick- |
bill collier
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, March 08, 2006 - 10:20 pm: | |
Thanks Nick
Do you (or anyone) have any experience with the Penguin to know if the pan and drain line are worth the effort?
I thought there would be a constant flow down the side of bus with out the drain line (I have no experience here), if overflow is just a periodic occurrence then I won’t bother.
Bill |
Jim Ashworth (Jimnh)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 09, 2006 - 7:37 am: | |
Dometic HAS condensate drains for the Penguin units. They are a pair of cup-like items screwed around the bottom of the existing drain holes. The plastic tubing drain line goes across the 14x14 opening with a "T" close to one side. The drain line can be 1/4" copper that must run down the inside between the roof and ceiling. I have them on my 3 a/c's and they work great. NO drips from the roof, splashing, streak marks, etc.,etc.
And they aren't expensive. See your local dealer.
Jim |
CRANE
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 09, 2006 - 1:58 pm: | |
Interior drain lines sound like trouble gonna happen.
The AC's have been made to drain on the roof.
What worries me, is the same as happens in a car, build up of crud happens and then the water stopps draining. What happens if the AC gets too much condensate in it? Can it hurt the unit?
And it seems to me that if you cup the pan openings, then you have to put holes in the roof to get inside. More potential for trouble.
Have to disconnect when servicing or removing AC, more problems.
The RV industry lets them drain on the roof, easy and simple and no leaks inside if the line goes bad or disconnects.
Stay with the KISS plan. |
Nick Badame Refrigeration Co. (Dnick85)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 09, 2006 - 3:31 pm: | |
Jim,
I've never had luck with the cups that dometic sells! That is why I told him to fabricate a pan that you can access without removing the whole unit to clean. I also make the pans for my customers!
Nick- |
Richard Bowyer (Drivingmisslazy)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 09, 2006 - 3:47 pm: | |
I would be really concerned with a 1/4 inch drain line getting plugged very quickly. I have had trouble with 1/2 inch condensate lines getting plugged over a period of time.
Richard |
Jim Ashworth (Jimnh)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, March 10, 2006 - 8:04 am: | |
I've had them for 6 years and the lines are 1/4" ID copper. The only trouble has been an occasional mud wasp plugging the end of the drain. A paper clip wiggled in it took care of that. If the drains do plug, the cups are not sealed to the a/c and will overflow onto the roof. that's when you know to unplug the end. Worst case, use shop air and blow it clear. Most all factory Prevosts with roof airs (more and more converters are going that route) will have the internal drains. Of course, properly maintained Dometic air filters and intake grills are important to keep the condensate clean.
Works for me.
Jim |
bill collier
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, March 12, 2006 - 5:27 pm: | |
Jim,
Can you tell me where I should stub out the internal drain line? Did your comment “plastic tubing drain line goes across the 14x14 opening with a "T" close to one side” mean it should be in the 14” opening?
thanks
Bill |
Jim Ashworth (Jimnh)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, March 13, 2006 - 3:20 pm: | |
Yes, its within the opening anywhere across the front and up to 4" back along the sides from the front. This location is due to the internal structure of the a/c return grill opening. The 'T' is within 1" of the side, either right or left, depending on which side you choose to install it. I used plastic line which can be in a big loop to access the drain pipe depending on location. If the 'T' location isn't to your liking, gets some tubing from Home Depot and put it where you need it.
The drain kit comes with an extra 1" of foam mounting that provides the clearance for the cups and drain line over the roof. In selecting the location, be aware the electric has to come in somewhere for the thermostat, 120v etc.
I can e-mail you photos if you'd like. E-mail me with your e-mail address.
Jim |