| Author |
Message |
Jack Gregg (Jackinkc)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, March 10, 2006 - 3:58 pm: | |
I bought these used SSRs so I can control the 110v auxilery water heater coil and some 110v lights. I want to use 12vdc to control the relay.
I need help with how the relay works. There is no label. There are two big screw terminals and two smaller screw terminals. Which is the control circuit? Is polarity important on the 12vdc control circuit?
I applied 12vdc to eac side and then tested the other side for continuity; no continuity. Does it need the 120vac load to work?
Thanks,
Jack
catalog page
Solid State Relay120 vac - 25 amp
(KO) CY3303Solid State optically isolated relay. 25 amp (200 amp surge), 120 vac capacity. 3-32 vdc (logic), 3ma, control current. Screw terminals. Removed from equipment. Tested, guaranteed 100%. |
Stan
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, March 10, 2006 - 4:23 pm: | |
The two big screws are for the load. Connect lke a switch, with the SSR in the black wire.
The two small screws are for the dc control and are polarity sensitive. HTH Stan |
Crane
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, March 10, 2006 - 5:02 pm: | |
yes
it should have two screws close together with the numbers 0-30vdc. (probably on the bottom)
the top will have the AC connections. Treat this like a switch. Hot (black wire) to one side of the AC connection (should be labeled as load or AC load), the load or wire to the load(water heater element) on the other.
in no way will the ac and dc wiring meet each other, keep completely separate.
From the pic the AC load will be on one side, the DC control on the other. Look it over good and you will understand. These are easy to use and they work SILENTLY. No matter how large the load.
These are really cool SSRs. I use them myself and like them alot. |
WEC4104
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, March 10, 2006 - 8:46 pm: | |
I agree, these work nicely for our busnut applications.
The previous owner of my GMC 4104 had installed a normal household 110 volt AC switch in one of the bays to turn on and off the engine block heater. When I would wake up on cold mornings I'd have to go outside, open the bay, and turn the block heater on. I got tired of that.
I now have a 12 volt switch on the dash connected to the solid state relay, which controls the heater. In the comfort of the warm coach I just flip a switch on the dash while I sip my morning coffee. No need to venture outside.
I also like "see" what is going on, so my dash switch has a 12 volt dash light (GMC called them "telltales") to indicate the switch is in the on position. Back at the relay there is a 110 LED wired to the output side to let me know it is on.
I put the relay inside a sealed electrical box, and recommend you do the same. You don't want the live screws on the relay exposed to the world.
I have another relay to install, so next up will be an outlet in the bay with a heater unit to keep the plumbing from freezing.
Fun stuff. |
KC Jack
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, March 10, 2006 - 9:35 pm: | |
I tested it without a load. It does not appear to work. Does it need a load to work? SSR is a pictured in catalog. No labels, no markings for polarity. Thanks |
WEC4104
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, March 10, 2006 - 9:51 pm: | |
KC-J
I doubt it needs a load to work. How did you test it?
If it has a pair of small screw terminals and a pair of large screw terminals, I have to think the small set will be the 3-32 VDC side.
I'd take an ohm meter and measure the resistance across the two large screws with nothing else attached (should be open circuit). Then I'd apply your ~12 volt power to the control side and meter the large screws again. If it is still open, I'd swap the two connections on the small screws (these will be polarity sensitive). If you still have an open circuit on the 110 side you either have a dead relay or your problem is beyond what I can suggest to help.
Is there any other brand name or part number of the unit itself that would enable you to find a tech sheet on the web. I tried the CY3303 number quickly but couldn't find anything easily. |
Gary Stadler (Boogiethecat)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, March 11, 2006 - 1:33 am: | |
They will definitely NOT test without a load, because what's inside is not a set of contacts, it's one or two solid state devices (Two SCR's or a single Triac) that will only turn on if there is AC current avaliable to flow through them, and they will only turn off again when the AC sinewave passes through zero. The output side is for AC only and will NOT work on DC (It may turn on but it won't turn off again)
They have no "measurable resistance" when turned on, at least as far as an ohm-meter will see. If you want to test them, hook one up like a lightswitch in series with a 120 volt AC lightbulb anything over 15 watts, and you'll see them work. But for many reasons probably beyond an explanation most here will understand, they will not show continuity with a battery powered or other type of ohm or continuity meter.
The DC input side has a definite polarity however hooking one backwards to 12 volts will not hurt it (It will simply not work). The output side has no polarity.
So hook an AC lightbulb up to it and give the other side 12 volts, and you will see it work. |
KC Jack
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, March 11, 2006 - 7:19 pm: | |
That was it. Thanks Gary.
Jack |
Gary Stadler (Boogiethecat)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, March 12, 2006 - 12:07 am: | |
Great Jack! SS relays are very nifty devices, you'll find them to be reliable and simple!!
Glad to help!
Gary |
Tim Stoecker (Zxt)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, March 13, 2006 - 4:11 pm: | |
Just be aware of something.
They are leakers.
If you have a 120v source connected to a SSR, even with the relay "off" their can still be voltage at the output, and you can get a poke. Not enough current will flow to turn on a bulb, but you will know it is there. |