Author |
Message |
Ross Carlisle (Rrc62)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, March 22, 2006 - 3:54 pm: | |
What't the general concensus on how to put down ceramic tile on a floor that may flex a little? Standard thinset or some sort of mastic? I though that maybe construction adhesive might work. Stays flexible and holds very well. Thanks...Ross |
H3-40
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, March 22, 2006 - 4:51 pm: | |
They make a thin set called Flex Bond maded especially for applications like this! Ace |
Brian Elfert
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, March 22, 2006 - 4:57 pm: | |
When my house was built in 2001, the ceramic guy used some sort of rubber sheeting that had alternating high and low points on it. Mortar was put above and below the rubber I believe. The rubber is supposed to be flexible and keep the ceramic from cracking if there is any flexing. I have not seen this stuff at any home improvement stores, but I haven't asked for it either. Brian Elfert |
Ross Carlisle (Rrc62)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, March 22, 2006 - 7:57 pm: | |
Ace...Is Flex Bond widely available or should I not bother looking at Home Depot and just go to a specialty flooring store? |
Ed (Ednj)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, March 22, 2006 - 8:24 pm: | |
Ross Take alook at the new Pergo ceramic tile. |
Ron Walker (Prevost82)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, March 22, 2006 - 8:27 pm: | |
Brian, the guy who lay my ceramic in the bus put the same type of material down, only it was make out of plastic not rubber, but same profile (high low). The material had some sort of cloth backing on the floor side. He use standard thinset mortar and it was only put on the top side of the material. He had me put down 3/8" subfloor on top of the 3/4" plywood floor first. He said that this was a safe way to go....he should know, he guaranteed the job. We went to Mazatlan and back this winter (8000 miles) and haven't had even a hairline crack. That's not bad for Mexican roads. Ron |
Rob King
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, March 22, 2006 - 9:41 pm: | |
Hi Ross When you get the thinset, buy the powder and add to it a latex liquid. It is the latex liquid that allows for the flex. You can buy premixed thinset but rarely do you find it premixed that also flexes. Color Tile almost always has the latex additive and I have seen it at our new Lowes. Still as Ron mentions above, using subfloor over the existing floor is best to limit the flex as much as possible. There is a product from Lowes, HD, etc., called hardibacker that is very good for this application. Apply thinset to your existing floor, then lay the hardibacker, then wood screws every 6" square into the existing wood floor (stop to let the thinset dry-usually 24 hours), then more thinset, lay the tile (stop for the thinset to dry-usually 24 hours), then grout. Should be plenty strong. I am not familiar with the plastic product Brian and Ron mentioned although it sounds interesting. Hope this helps Rob 91 LeMirage XL Missouri |
H3-40
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, March 22, 2006 - 9:57 pm: | |
Don't think home improvement shops carry it althought they might. I aways get supplies from wholesalers. Ace |
John MC9
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, March 22, 2006 - 10:10 pm: | |
Hmmm.... "how to put down ceramic tile on a floor that may flex a little? " Flexing a little, is like being a little pregnant... If the floor flexes when you stand on it, the tile may crack. Cement board is what would be used to avoid the flexing. The cement board is heavy. It's commonly required for tiling floors in mobile homes, since floor flexing is normal, due to it's construction. Pergo's simulated tile flooring is easier, looks about the same, but can get scratched with heavy use.. I will very likely go with Pergo, both simulated wood, and tile. It's quick and easy. |
Ed (Ednj)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Thursday, March 23, 2006 - 6:31 am: | |
Pergo's simulated tile flooring is easier, looks about the same, but can get scratched with heavy use.. I will very likely go with Pergo, both simulated wood, and tile. It's quick and easy. John thats not the Pergo I'm talking about. They make a ceramic tile mounted to a backer board that snaps together. You can glue it , nail it or float it.It's real tile you cant scratch it. 10 square' per box. |
Ed (Ednj)
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Thursday, March 23, 2006 - 7:50 am: | |
Sorry its not Pergo. http://www.edgeflooring.com/site/green.html . or, http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/home-garden/home-improvement/new-edge-tile-704-tile-flo oring-flooring-installation.htm |
John MC9
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Thursday, March 23, 2006 - 9:09 am: | |
Ed - "Edge flooring cost us about the same as what we would have paid for plastic laminate or a midpriced ceramic tile and supplies. While you can pay far more for regular tile, especially if a pro installs it, you can also pay far less. Upkeep and variety are concerns. Standing water and spills must be soaked up promptly, a drawback for kitchens and bathrooms. You'll also find only 6 porcelain and 3 stone options in stores, though you can special-order 14 others. The bottom line: Edge may be appealing if you want ceramic or stone with less work. But added variety and resistance to spills could make regular tile a better bet." From: Consumer reports I guess that's the caveat... Well, that, and the fact that it uses common grout. Ross was concerned with the floor he has, in that it flexes.. I'm assuming he meant that it flexes when he walks on it.. Flexing of the floor will cause the grout between the joints to work loose. Thin solid tile could crack, if you stepped in the middle of one and the surface under it was not firm. The tile product at that URL is nice, but I would stick to using either tile, or a laminate look alike, if I wanted tile. With solid tile, if there's any chance the floor will flex, cement board should be used as an underlayment. Well, that's my understanding of it all..... I'm not a "flooring guy", so I hope one pops in and sets things right. |