| Author |
Message |
captain ron (Captain_ron)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, April 09, 2006 - 10:08 pm: | |
I got my Titan water heater a few minutes ago. can I run the pop off valve back into my fresh water tank or should I just run it to the out side of my bay through the floor?
Also what kind of switch can I put in my bath room to turn on and off water heater that will look good? |
Gary Stadler (Boogiethecat)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, April 10, 2006 - 5:29 am: | |
Ron, IF your water tank is permanently vented, and the line going back to it can stand the hot, it should be fine to run the popoff back to it. Being vented is important.
It might not be worth the trouble though, how many times do those valves actually go off? In my lifetime I've only seen one or two. Never on a bus..
They are "T/P valves... temperature and pressure. It is unlikely that you'll ever see excess pressure, and if you keep your temperature control to a reasonable setting, you'll probably never see it go off. |
David (Davidinwilmnc)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, April 10, 2006 - 12:15 pm: | |
Ron, if the temp and pressure valve ever opens, you'll probably want to know it. It might be best to just have it exit through the floor of the bus near the side so you can possibly see the water. If you do this, you'll obviously want to screen the pipe from spiders and other insects.
What's the current draw of the water heater? I assume it's got a 1500 watt element. A spec. grade (or hospital grade) switch from Lowe's that handles 20 amps should work fine. Otherwise, a low voltage relay/ contactor will work if you don't want to run lots of 12 awg. cable. |
Jim Stewart (H3jim)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, April 10, 2006 - 6:35 pm: | |
I ususlly leave my hot water heater off since I only use the coach once a month or so. Everytime I heat it up from cold, the TP valve vents, due to the expasion of the water being heated. I plan on installing a short vertical stand pipe in the hot water line in an attempt to alleviate this issue. The pipe will normally be filled with air, and the air will compress a little when the water expands from the initial heat. Part of my concern is that San diego water is so calcium filled, if I just let it seep each time I fill, it will likely deposit crud in the valve seat, and I expect it will start leaking through the TP valve over time.
has anyone else experienced this? I have an 11 gallon Seaward heat exchanger, with electric element. I will be using with a webasto type system when complete. |
Stan
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, April 10, 2006 - 8:14 pm: | |
Any RV that has check valves in the system will lift the TP valve when going from cold to hot unless you have enough plastic pipe that will stretch. Camping World sells a small plastic surge tank but a better solution is a bladder tank from a plumbing supply on the cold watter line between the check valve and the heater. The smallest ones are about one gallon and they work fine. |
John MC9
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, April 11, 2006 - 12:57 am: | |
Out through the floor.
Any "furnace" 110v wall switch will suffice. It's got a red
switch control, so one would take notice.
(Home Depot - Ace Hardware) |