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captain ron (Captain_ron)

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Posted on Saturday, April 15, 2006 - 4:35 am:   

I'm gonna be picking up my drivers and co-pilot seats from Chuck Lott on Tues. I want to install them before I leave. but I can't access under the copilot seat on my MCI like I could my 4905 to bolt them down. Can I just lag it down and be safe?
Jay Gerlick

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Posted on Saturday, April 15, 2006 - 10:10 am:   

if you really want to bolt it down good you could remove the inner wheel well to access underneath.
Craig (Ceieio)

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Posted on Saturday, April 15, 2006 - 3:42 pm:   

Ron - Try removing the fire extinguisher box in the stairwell and going in that way. You should be able to get a plate under there to make a good sandwich to bolt through.

I have not done this yet, but a local busnut did the copilot seat in his MC-8 this way.

Craig - MC7 Oregon
tomnpat

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Posted on Saturday, April 15, 2006 - 4:16 pm:   

Ron,

Did you remove the original Chair rail? It can add strength to the bolts you can reach if you didn't.

TomNPat
John MC9

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Posted on Saturday, April 15, 2006 - 6:06 pm:   

If you can't get under the floor, just use spring toggle wings,
they come in bolt sizes from 3/8 to 1-1/4". Drill the hole, put
the bolt through the seat mount, screw it into the wing, pop it
through the floor, and tighten it up. Bahdahbing; bahdahboom.

(use a bit brace, so you don't drill thru pipes; go slow)

spring_toggle_wing
ChuckMC9 (Chucks)

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Posted on Saturday, April 15, 2006 - 7:29 pm:   

rube...Rube...RUBE?!

ComeOn, JtnG, even I wouldn't do that! You're gonna be able to look anyone in the eye after your precious daughter *and* her seat went through the windshield?!
JR

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Posted on Saturday, April 15, 2006 - 9:33 pm:   

You can reach under the floor if the ramp is removed. The whole area inside the frame (immediately below the rail) is a large air duct and is open. This won't be helpful if you've already completed removed the ramp and built up the floor. The area is still accessible from the front air intake. Could weld nuts to a steel plate and get it into place. I used the rail for two lateral attachment points and reached up under the floor for the inner two bolts.
I've heard of drilling through the wheel well for access and plugging the holes with push in plugs. You've still got to get the outer holes outside the frame, or inside the frame (or in the chair rail). If outside, the chair probably won't have space to swivel, if inside, too close to the isle. Use the orig rail if you still have it.
BTW, the chair rail is a tough sucker...welded onto the frame.
Good Luck, JR
John MC9

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Posted on Saturday, April 15, 2006 - 10:11 pm:   

Oh, chuckie, chuckie, chuckie... Youse gotta' Rube it once
in awhile! And besides, try and rip out a seat that's attached
to the floor with four (4) of the 1-1/4" size bolts that are
screwed into the spring wing that's designed for that sized bolt....
Yeah, right... eh? UGH. nope.

A 1/2 to 3/4 size should suffice. Yeah, I'd use 'em..... If I
ever get that far.... I've had so many setbacks this year, that
I'm starting to reconsider this project. It's had to take the
backseat to family health problems..... and hurricane season's
coming up quick.. I hate to evacuate in a lousy van again.
My wife's really not up to the van life....again......yet.

Anyone wanna' swap their Winnebago Rialta for an '79 MC9?
TomNPat

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Posted on Sunday, April 16, 2006 - 2:51 am:   

John,

Remember,

When times are tough,
and rewards are few,
Remember the mighty oak,
was once a nut like you!!!!!!!!!!

You have such a good sense of humor you'll get through it! Get the 'steel tent' ready and go.

Good Luck!

TomNPat
John MC9

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Posted on Sunday, April 16, 2006 - 12:04 pm:   

HAR!

Thanks for the encouragement, TomNPat.. Yeah, a sense
of humor can help....sometimes..

What's been really helping, is the visits we make to the local
RV dealers. After looking at their prices, and seeing the
de-lamination on brand-new rigs, our old clunker of a bus
is getting to be even more appealing.

Actually, we've been looking for a small class "B" for day
trips, and small enough to tow behind the bus. The Winnebago
Rialta fits our needs, but it's difficult to find a used one..


eatster bunnies
"Eatster Bunnies"
ChuckMC9 (Chucks)

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Posted on Sunday, April 16, 2006 - 1:26 pm:   

Well I wish you all the encouragement in the world as well - and your co-pilot... I just haven't heard of many who just bolt the seat to the wood flooor. Heck I haven't even crossed that bridge yet, but am going to use the rails + metal plates in some fashion.

OK, off to work on the bus after a month+...

Have a splendid day, yall.
John MC9

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Posted on Sunday, April 16, 2006 - 1:53 pm:   

Chuck -

I mounted a new Flexsteel "co-pilot" seat for wifey, using
the existing seat rail and bolts that were used for the original
seats. Although it's strong enough using the OE rails and bolts,
it's still temporary. When the finish flooring goes down, I'll add
some of those neat wing anchors that I noted above. I -would not-
recommend simple lag bolts or screws into the plywood floor.
They would probably rip out of the plywood floor on impact.
The -good grade- winged thingies can hold a lot more....
John MC9

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Posted on Sunday, April 16, 2006 - 4:02 pm:   

Chuck!

By the way.... Our commercially made, high $$ Georgie-Boy
motorhome's OE furniture (seats incl) were screwed to the
plywood floor with standard sheetrock type screws. The
Romex was found stapled to the interior wall 1x2s....Propane
copper lines chafing against the chassis... Welding cable used
instead of battery cable, totally deteriorated and shorting out
against the chassis throughout it's 35' undercarriage run...

That's how the "pros" do it; the ones that build these things
for a living! What do we amateurs know, eh?


a_good_egg
FAST FRED

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Posted on Monday, April 17, 2006 - 4:50 am:   

"That's how the "pros" do it; the ones that build these things
for a living! What do we amateurs know, eh?"

OH , but they comply with the RVIA,

which shows you the value of a self written code!


GIGO

FAST FRED
ChuckMC9 (Chucks)

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Posted on Monday, April 17, 2006 - 10:53 am:   

That's how the "pros" do it; the ones that build these things
for a living!


...all in the name of shareholder return...
Ed (Ednj)

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Posted on Monday, April 17, 2006 - 9:00 pm:   

By ChuckMC9
Well I wish you all the encouragement in the world as well - and your co-pilot... I just haven't heard of many who just bolt the seat to the wood flooor. Heck I haven't even crossed that bridge yet, but am going to use the rails + metal plates in some fashion.

OK, off to work on the bus after a month+...

Chuck
I removed the floor, and the tracks for the seats
just poped off when hit with a hammer( they are only tacked).
I then welded a 3/8"x24"x36" plate to the frame.
I installed the new plywood floor over the plate.
Now just drill and tap anywhere in that area.
Greg Peterson

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Posted on Monday, April 17, 2006 - 11:46 pm:   

Not all the RVs are built that way. I replaced the seats and sofa in my Fleetwood Southwind. It had 3/4" bolts with nuts and washers that went through the floor and into the steel frame for both captain chairs and the sofa. My new sofa needed longer bolts so I got some with many lines on the head just like the original bolts.

In a crash all the wood and plastic will blow up around me but I think my seat will still be connected to the frame.

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