| Author |
Message |
rick00000
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, April 23, 2006 - 8:50 am: | |
Does anyone know how the reostat and thermostat work on the above bus. On my conversion the coach air switch turns on the compresor and it doesn't cycle off until I turn the switch off. Also the heating valve is open alowing the system to cool and heat at the same time. It seems the reostat does nothing/ Help.
Rick |
Tim James
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, April 23, 2006 - 2:26 pm: | |
The water modulating valve controls water flow though the heater core. This valve is either operated by air or electric. You'll need to determine which type you have. There is a temperature sensor in your return air duct. This sensor controls the operation of the water modulating valve. Either open or closed. If it's the electric type when the current is off the valve is open. Current on, valve closed. The reostat controls a heating element just ahead of the temperature sensor. This allows for adjustment of the interior temperature of the bus...when you turn the reostat to cooler, the element heats, thus making the temp. sensor think the air in the bus is warmer, thus closing the water modulating valve. The water modulating valves tend to be problematic. The diaphragms go bad, they stick, etc. They are also very expensive. The solution. Get rid of this whole system. Replace the water modulating valve with a motor actuated tri-state ball valve. These are available in any voltage you need. All you need to do is install a double pole momentary on - off - momentary on switch to control it. One way opens the valve, the other closes it. Wherever you let go of the switch, the valve stays...works just like a car heat control...nothing to go wrong, stick, no sensors to worry about. If you get hot, close it, if you get cold, open it. You can blend heat with the A/C (very useful in the winter when the windows fog up)...works just like a car. I recently installed this on my 1984 Prevost and it works like a dream. I used an
1 1/4" ball valve with a 24v dc actuator. It cost me around $90. bucks. You can get them from Clark Solutions...if you call them they are very helpful in selecting the right valve. Their website is http://www.clarksol.com/html/prodspecsMotorActValve.htm |
Buswarrior (Buswarrior)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, April 24, 2006 - 4:50 pm: | |
Hello Rick.
If you have the stock system, it is designed as a re-heating system. The AC runs continuously, cooling the air colder than neccessary. The temp control blends in some heat in the heater core to warm up the air to send into the bus, as the temp in the bus reaches the set point.
Works well to keep the humidity down.
Is yours not working properly, or did you want to know how it works?
happy coaching!
buswarrior |
straycatboat
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, April 24, 2006 - 6:55 pm: | |
I am not sure if it is working properly but I noticed the heater valve was open when I set the reostat to cooler. I would think (logically) that the heater valve should be closed when calling for cooler a/c. Is there a way to check the thermotat to see if it works?? |
Buswarrior (Buswarrior)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, April 26, 2006 - 9:11 pm: | |
Hello Rick
What is the end result? What is the temp in the coach?
These things do not react instantaineously, and their cycling does not necessarily make sence to the casual observer.
There is both the dash control, and the temp sensor down in the air intake somewhere.
Luke has suggested that if you want to pick one to be suspect of first, suspect the temp sensor.
happy coaching!
buswarrior |
straycatboat
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, April 27, 2006 - 7:37 pm: | |
Thanks Bus Warrior,
the air comming out of the ducts is 72 degrees. Is there a way I can check out to see if the temp sensor is working? |