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Arnold J Molloy (Ayjay)

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Posted on Saturday, June 17, 2006 - 2:10 pm:   

I have Jake 71A and 92A (non DDEC) housings installed on my 8V71TA.
I cannot find any numbers that match the P/N's in the Jake manual looking from the outside of the solenoids, not having a proper spanner wrench I am faced with using Vise Grips or waterpumps to unscrew one of the solenoids to see if other numbers are present. Neither excite me!
I've applied 12V directly to the solenoid and it gives a "Soft" kick action, I'm hesitant to hit it with 24V for fear of burning up a 12V coil.
Should any part other than the solenoid move or do anything when the proper voltage is applied?
Any info is welcome!

TIA

AyJay
Gary Stadler (Boogiethecat)

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Posted on Saturday, June 17, 2006 - 3:51 pm:   

I just went out to my bus and measured the resistance of my 12 volt Jake coils for you... came out at 20 ohms per coil.
Granted my Jakes are from cummins 220 engine, but it's likely that Jacobs uses the same or at least very similar coils in all their products.

If you can measure yours they will probably be close to 20 ohms if 12 volts, or more like 40-50 ohms if they are 24 volters. If they are 12 volts you could measure their resistance and put resistors of equal value in series, that would probably work fine. For 20 ohms, you'd need 10 watt resistors at minimum...

Cheers
Arnold J Molloy (Ayjay)

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Posted on Saturday, June 17, 2006 - 5:09 pm:   

Thanks Gary;
I closed shop for the day, The DW and I are out of here for a dinner party tonight, but I'll be putting your info into play 1st thing tomorrow morning.
The bus was not wired for Jakes altho the engine was??????
I have both 12V and 24V available using a Vanner Equalizer so voltage is no problem, I was just hesitant to hit the solenoids with 24V not knowing which they were.
Thanks again
AyJay
79 RTS
Gary Stadler (Boogiethecat)

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Posted on Saturday, June 17, 2006 - 7:37 pm:   

Cool. Let me know how it comes out.

Since the bus wasn't wired for Jakes, when you do it, wire it so you can turn banks on individually. Or the way I did it is I have three banks and two dash switches, plus all the pedal lockout switches etc. I wired two banks together and hooked them to one switch and the 3rd bank to the other switch. By juggling the switches I can get 1,2,or 3 banks with only two wires going back to the engine. It makes it really nice to be able to tweek your holdback when coming down various grades. Some only need one bank, others two, and the big ones might need all 3. I love having the choice

Cheers
Gary
Richard Bowyer (Drivingmisslazy)

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Posted on Saturday, June 17, 2006 - 7:42 pm:   

I have always thought that was a great idea Gary and would recommend it to anyone that is considering installing Jakes.

I certainly would have appreciated having the three choices while I was traveling thru-out the Western states as well as here in the Eastern areas.
Richard
Arnold J Molloy (Ayjay)

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Posted on Saturday, June 17, 2006 - 11:11 pm:   

Hi Gary:
I have wired the Jakes in as a 2 stage system using a single dash mounted DPDT (cross connected), center off toggle switch, but instead of switching 12V at the dash I use the switch to provide a ground to a couple of SPDT "Bosch" type cube relays mounted in the battery compartment and provide the +12V there, as well as pick up the (?) voltage to operate the Jakes.(saves running the 12V some 80 feet), this way I can get away with using only 2 conductors of a 8 pair #22 wire cable that I ran from the dash to the battery compartment. The relays only draw 45 ma. but carry 40 amps.
I use a similar relay bank system to operate the "Intellitec" 600 Amp solenoid I've installed to control my battery seperate/combined setup.

I think I've used enough bandwidth for now,"Jack Daniels" makes my fingers nimble :-). more later if you're interested.
Thanks again
AyJay
Gary Stadler (Boogiethecat)

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Posted on Sunday, June 18, 2006 - 11:46 am:   

Sounds great Arnold!

Most Jake installations have a couple more switches- one on the clutch pedal and one on the throttle pedal at least (either one disengages the Jakes if the pedal is pushed), and some have switches that drop the Jakes out under a given RPM so the engine can idle even if you forgot to turn them off.
If you don't have these switches and want some microswitches to create them, I've got a bunch of them laying around, I'd be happy to send you a few.

And last, it's always a good idea to stick a little 1N4001 diode from each Jake coil to ground, so as to steer the inductive kick to ground when the coil is turned off... this helps keep other electronic goodies from letting their smoke out.
Again, if you need some of them I've got lots and am happy to send you some...


Otherwise sounds like your system is great!!

Cheers
Gary
Richard Bowyer (Drivingmisslazy)

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Posted on Sunday, June 18, 2006 - 12:07 pm:   

I also installed a rack of cube relays in the engine compartment for controlling various components such as the Jakes, Tail Lights Brake Lights Back up Lights and other miscellaneous items.

This reduces the current in the wires going from the front of the bus to the rear from several amps to only milliamps.
Richard
Arnold J Molloy (Ayjay)

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Posted on Sunday, June 18, 2006 - 1:28 pm:   

Hi Gary and Richard;
The solenoids measure right at 20 +/- 2 ohms. Evidently they are 12V units.
Gary, my transmission is a 730 automatic so I installed a pressure switch in the lock-up passage of the 730 so it only kicks in when the torque converter is locked and have installed the "fast Idle, Buffer switch" on the governor that allows the fast idle to operate, when enabled, but NOT the jakes. normally the Jakes are enabled (if switched on) whenever the engine is running above idle.

Richard, the "Cube" relays are the only way to fly. I pulled a single 8 pair (16 cond) cable (that's what was in the junkbox and long enough) thru the bus and use a single conductor to operate a relay, as you know we can control 16 different circuits by simply supplying a ground from a dash switch to a relay coil terminated at 12V+.
I had to use 4 of them to provide the voltage reversing required by the Intellitec solenoid I use to seperate my batteries when dry camping but still charge both banks when traveling......

Still have 6 empty :-). I'm sure I'll find something to use them for.

Thanks again Guys
Happy Fathers Day
AyJay
79 RTS
Dale Waller (Happycampersrus)

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Posted on Sunday, June 18, 2006 - 2:36 pm:   

Arnold,

What pressure switch in the lock-up passage did you use for your V730??

Would you have a part# for it?? or the switch pressure??

I am ready to wire up my Jakes and relays, but I can't find what switch to use.

Thanks, Dale
Gary Stadler (Boogiethecat)

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Posted on Sunday, June 18, 2006 - 3:01 pm:   

Excellent! Glad to help you figure out the voltage, sounds like your system is great!!
Cheers
Arnold J Molloy (Ayjay)

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Posted on Sunday, June 18, 2006 - 4:59 pm:   

Hi Dale:
The Jacobs P/N is JVS3590. I looks like a conventional $5.00 brake pressure switch with a 1/8" NPT thread, I don't know what pressure it activates at......BUT....... cost right at $90.00 bucks.
I ordered mine thru my local Detroit Dealer Not a stock item :-).

AyJay
79 RTS

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