| Author |
Message |
BUSFOOL (Chuck)
Registered Member
Username: Chuck
Post Number: 51
Registered: 12-2004
Posted From: 206.172.106.55
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, September 17, 2006 - 2:01 pm: | |
when you put roof units on a coach say an mc9 and you use the escape hatch areas do you have to change the size of the openings or will they fit in the existing holes |
J.C.B. (Eagle)
Registered Member
Username: Eagle
Post Number: 73
Registered: 12-2000
Posted From: 74.130.36.222
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, September 17, 2006 - 2:40 pm: | |
Openings must be 14" X 14" |
JR Lynch (Njt5047)
Registered Member
Username: Njt5047
Post Number: 61
Registered: 7-2006
Posted From: 69.132.238.127
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, September 17, 2006 - 9:40 pm: | |
By the time you cover and frame the escape openings for an AC, just as well install them in new holes. That will allow the front AC to be as near the driver as you wish...if you plan to use the rooftops for OTR AC. Hope your bus isn't converted yet. You'll have to pull the interior ceiling panels out to weld in a frame. Don't forget to wire the AC before returning the panels.
If the OEM AC works...you have a choice, but if it doesn't, you'll want the front AC just behind the front cap. Two rooftops will easily cool an MC9. I got living proof!
JR |
John MC9 (John_mc9)
Registered Member
Username: John_mc9
Post Number: 97
Registered: 7-2006
Posted From: 66.217.107.120
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, September 17, 2006 - 11:26 pm: | |
I built 14-1/4" x 14-1/4" wood frames out of 1-1/2" square
oak stock (available at Home Depot), and screw fastened
them into the emergency hatch openings. You'll have to cut/trim
the existing upper hatch assembly, where it protrudes above the
roof. Once the frame was in place, I covered the opening with
aluminum, using butyl for the sealant between the two. Spray
foam the area around the opening, for insulation against the
elements and the sound.
Fourteen and a quarter square for the opening, is standard
RV dimensions. |
BUSFOOL (Chuck)
Registered Member
Username: Chuck
Post Number: 52
Registered: 12-2004
Posted From: 206.172.106.41
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, September 18, 2006 - 8:38 pm: | |
Thanks for all the suggestions I think as jr says it might be just as easy to cut new holes and frame them. This gives me more of a choice as to where to place them for the best possible use.thanks jr |
John MC9 (John_mc9)
Registered Member
Username: John_mc9
Post Number: 102
Registered: 7-2006
Posted From: 66.217.105.72
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, September 18, 2006 - 11:13 pm: | |
There's a center structural beam that runs the length of the
MCI bus roof. The manufacturer supported the escape
hatch openings to allow for the structural design.... For a
simple lightweight fan, mounting in a new hole aside that
beam might be fine.... but a 100+ lb air conditioner?
You may not enjoy the vibration....... |
David Ljung Madison (Daveola)
Registered Member
Username: Daveola
Post Number: 74
Registered: 11-2005
Posted From: 63.204.157.4
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, September 19, 2006 - 2:02 am: | |
How far forward are people putting the roof airs? I've been thinking about moving mine forward. I haven't opened the roof up yet, but is there a good spot right up by the driver that still allows good airflow back and doesn't require welding in new beams? I recently did a trip on a sunny day - the driver's seat was boiling, of course. |
marcschlabach
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 68.56.215.146
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, September 18, 2006 - 5:45 pm: | |
Jr., I don't know where you live, but in Florida where I live 3 roof airs are a MUST.I agree about keeping the front one as close to the driver as possible. Just my opinion. Marc |
Tim McWhorter (Theredwriter)
Registered Member
Username: Theredwriter
Post Number: 44
Registered: 5-2006
Posted From: 12.18.219.90
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, September 20, 2006 - 2:08 pm: | |
Three roof air units is the magic number for us. Even with the first one close up front, the driver's seat is still a little toasty on warm days. I got a fan and it helps out tremendously. |
BUSFOOL (Chuck)
Registered Member
Username: Chuck
Post Number: 56
Registered: 12-2004
Posted From: 206.172.106.176
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, September 21, 2006 - 7:43 am: | |
now for an even more stupid question three sounds like the magic number what powers the roof units? |
Jim Stewart (H3jim)
Registered Member
Username: H3jim
Post Number: 267
Registered: 10-2004
Posted From: 68.7.236.108
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, September 21, 2006 - 11:07 am: | |
They run on 120 volts, so you have to wire them to a power source. Typically an on board generator, or the power pole. |
David Dulmage (Daved)
Registered Member
Username: Daved
Post Number: 136
Registered: 12-2003
Posted From: 142.46.199.30
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, September 21, 2006 - 1:30 pm: | |
At present I have one in the bay a/c unit and one roof air on our MC-8. The roof air is mounted to the left of the roof spar and is quite solid.
I haven't done any experiments, but since the A/C unit is clamped to the roof by four bolts extending through the inside bracket, and does not itself extend into the roof opening it might even be possible to mount the unit on centre without cutting the spar, if one split the flexible discharge duct from the top unit.
FWIW
Dave Dulmage |
John MC9 (John_mc9)
Registered Member
Username: John_mc9
Post Number: 105
Registered: 7-2006
Posted From: 66.217.106.178
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, September 21, 2006 - 8:02 pm: | |
BussFool -
Welllllll.......
It takes at least one 2.8 kw genset to run one 13.5 btu AC
unit, but nothing else at the same time.
Here's a wattage chart
But... (listen to this)... You can buy a neat unit to cycle the
air conditioners, allowing you to run two (or more) using
a standard 30 amp service!
Pulse-Air = http://www.campingworld.com/browse/skus/index.cfm?deptID=3&subOf=166,16&skunum=9320
"Where there's a will; there's a relative" |
David Dulmage (Daved)
Registered Member
Username: Daved
Post Number: 137
Registered: 12-2003
Posted From: 142.46.199.30
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, September 22, 2006 - 12:01 pm: | |
A Mach III Power Saver (13,500 BTU cooling rating) unit draws 10.2 amps while cooling, somewhat more on power up.
DaveD |
JR Lynch (Njt5047)
Registered Member
Username: Njt5047
Post Number: 69
Registered: 7-2006
Posted From: 69.132.238.127
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, September 22, 2006 - 9:14 pm: | |
Marc, I live in Charlotte, NC...about as hot here as Florida. We have our 100 degree days.
I got foam. The bus is insulated. That's the key to staying cool. I don't think three units would have cooled it when it had the factory insulation.
I have two Dometic 15K heatpumps (15K cool, 12K heat) and as long as no sun's on the coach, the front unit will keep the whole bus comfortable. When driving, I run the genset and just the front AC. Another thing, not sure how much difference it really makes, is Pen windows. Got dual pane Pen sliders in all windows...excepting the windshields and entry door. May do the entry door one day..for consistant look.
The front AC is located immediately behind the front hatch. I've seen ACs mounted on the front caps...funky looking. That would require a dedicated frame built beneath the cap, as does mounting it anywhere else.
Mine ACs are mounted in the center and vibration isn't an issue.
The heatpumps have been great so far. Good heat and cooling under the conditions that I use it..I don't do really cold weather.
A Yamaha EDL6500 diesel genset will easily run both ACs. The heatpumps pull about 12 amps each on cool, and surprisingly, about 15 amps each on heat. Surprised that the heat uses more power, but they do. When traveling in hot weather, the rearmost vents can be closed the the front discharge will deflect off the windshield...not bad at all. Set like that, the AC thermostat is almost defeated..once out of the sun, the temp in the drivers area will drop quickly and the rear vent must be opened.
Another thing that helps my cooling situation is an open floor plan. The more you compartmentalize a coach, the more difficult cooling it will be.
If you like it cold, keep the OEM AC or install a dash unit. The OEM AC, when working properly, will turn the bus into a meat locker!
JR |
JC Alacoque (Jc_alacoque)
Registered Member
Username: Jc_alacoque
Post Number: 17
Registered: 7-2006
Posted From: 154.11.98.45
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, September 28, 2006 - 9:39 am: | |
I installed a TurboKool swamp cooler in the front vent in the roof of our Courier 96. Works quite well when driving. We also leave it on when parked to go shopping or restaurant. Only has one 12 volt motor so draws very little courent.
JC |