Author |
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Stephen Fessenden (Sffess)
Registered Member Username: Sffess
Post Number: 651 Registered: 1-2002 Posted From: 67.142.130.25
Rating: Votes: 2 (Vote!) | Posted on Thursday, October 12, 2006 - 9:18 pm: | |
Could someone who is famaliar with the electric code tell me what size wires I need to run in conduit up the pole about 25 ft to a weatherhead for connection to the power lines by the electric company. Meter is on this pole with a small wire leading from current senser on incoming wires. Then one drop goes to house, one to detached garage/shop. I will be adding a third drop down pole to the RV box. I have permission to attach an RV box to the electric pole on my property by the bus. And I have approval for a non GFI 240 volt and 30 Amp 120 volt outlet. I will use a 15 Amp GFI for the 20 amp service. I plan to use a used construction pole outlet box with a 50 Amp 120/240 volt outlet, a 30 Amp 120 volt outlet and a 20 amp 120 volt duplex outlet. There are separate breakers for each outlet. Normally the 50 amp outlet will be used, but it is conceivable that I could have a short term guest and also use the 30 amp outlet. Do I plan for 50 amps, 75 amps, 80 amps? The The book shows that I can use #6 THHN for up to 75 amps at 90 degrees. Should I use larger wire to allow for the possibility that one day two coaches may be hooked up to the one box and both be using the maximum. Or should I only allow for the reality that even with two hooked up temporarily, they would both not be using the full capacity of the outlets. I guess the guy on 30 amp could well be using a full 30 amps on one leg, but the guy, or my coach, on 50 amp would not be using a full 50 amps on both legs, though 30 amps on one leg and 20 amps on the other might be possible in a heatwave. Normally, the draw will be far less. Also I need a weatherproof cover for the construction outlet/breaker box if anyone knows where to get one or how to make one. I am blessed to live in a county where they will let me put my outlet box on their pole (not a line pole). |
Stephen Fessenden (Sffess)
Registered Member Username: Sffess
Post Number: 652 Registered: 1-2002 Posted From: 67.142.130.25
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Thursday, October 12, 2006 - 9:37 pm: | |
CORRECTION: There is no 30 amp 120 volt outlet on this box,just a 50 amp 240/120 volt and a 20 amp 120 volt duplex outlet. |
niles steckbauer (Niles500)
Registered Member Username: Niles500
Post Number: 668 Registered: 11-2004 Posted From: 72.77.226.82
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Thursday, October 12, 2006 - 10:25 pm: | |
Stephen - your best bet is to call the engineer at the local service office of the power co. - It's their lines your hooking up to - it will also depend on the size of your main disconnect - HTH |
David Hartley (Drdave)
Registered Member Username: Drdave
Post Number: 683 Registered: 5-2005 Posted From: 67.78.176.54
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Friday, October 13, 2006 - 6:48 am: | |
You probably will need to install a 150 amp outdoor breaker panel on the pole to feed your outlets. The wiring should be adequate for 150 amp service. The best bet is to hang the panel and have the electric company installer run the drop down the pole to the box. They usually carry the right wire on their trucks. They will have to make the final connection anyway. |
don (Bottomacher)
Registered Member Username: Bottomacher
Post Number: 143 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 72.15.81.101
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Friday, October 13, 2006 - 8:20 am: | |
Your local electrical inspector is usually very willing to answer the question, and he has the book. |
niles steckbauer (Niles500)
Registered Member Username: Niles500
Post Number: 669 Registered: 11-2004 Posted From: 24.129.157.205
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Friday, October 13, 2006 - 4:37 pm: | |
Stephen if your still in Polk County I don't think they are going to a) give an electrical release to Teco, City of Lakeland, Withalacoochee, or Fla. Power (the 4 co's serving Polk) without permitting and inspection, b) do any wiring past the weatherhead - you are required to install everything down from weatherhead including riser, meter can, main disconnect and down to ground rod - HTH |
Kyle Brandt (Kyle4501)
Registered Member Username: Kyle4501
Post Number: 211 Registered: 9-2004 Posted From: 65.23.106.193
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Friday, October 13, 2006 - 4:46 pm: | |
Be nice when you ask the inspector, my local inspector gets real annoyed when you make him consult his book.... He mumbles something about 'If you don't know, then hire an Electrician'. Then he gets real bitchey about everything he can see. I agree with DrDave to err on the side of higher capacity than you think you need. The $$ for that short run of wire is not much in the big picture. Good luck |
Len Silva (Lsilva)
Registered Member Username: Lsilva
Post Number: 51 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 67.141.151.5
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Friday, October 13, 2006 - 6:17 pm: | |
Stephen, You can probably buy a temporary service power pole completely set up with the weatherhead, meter can and breaker box with some outlets. You will only have to add the RV type outlet panels which are available at Home Depot. The biggest problem is getting the permit to do it. Many areas won't let you power up an RV on residential property etc. etc. The power company won't connect until the inspection is done. Len |
Bob greenwood (Bob_greenwood)
Registered Member Username: Bob_greenwood
Post Number: 243 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 4.226.105.130
Rating: Votes: 1 (Vote!) | Posted on Friday, October 13, 2006 - 7:01 pm: | |
#6 is fine...you sure been getting some strange awnsers..you can hook it up yourself,just make sure you pull the disconect first |
Ed Jewett (Kristinsgrandpa)
Registered Member Username: Kristinsgrandpa
Post Number: 270 Registered: 2-2003 Posted From: 64.24.211.226
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Friday, October 13, 2006 - 9:12 pm: | |
Stephen, listen to Niles, the local power co. is who to contact about a new service drop. The local AEP has a little drawing that explains what they require. Each power co. is different. The local AEP won't hook onto anything less than 100 amps. If that is the case in your area then you need #4, that is the size required by the NEC. #4 thwn is good for 95 amps but they allow it for a 100 amp service drop if it is a single phase dwelling service (120/240) The local AEP will only hook onto drops smaller than 100 amps if its for a traffic signal or a phone booth. Ed |
Stephen Fessenden (Sffess)
Registered Member Username: Sffess
Post Number: 653 Registered: 1-2002 Posted From: 67.142.130.24
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Saturday, October 14, 2006 - 12:32 am: | |
Thanks for all the help. I have been doing some asking locally also. NEC allows for less than 100 amp service if it is additional service at an outbuilding on a residential property, for instance to a detached garage. My local electric company will hook up to a 50 amp or 60 amp additional service box on their pole. This is not a line pole but a pole carrying only the drop to my house and shop. (It is doubtful any company would allow a box to be attached to their line pole.) #6 THHN wire is satisfactory. It will have to be inspected before hook up. It needs to be run in 1 inch conduit to a weatherhead at the top of the pole with at least 24 inches of wire beyond the weatherhead. 4 or 5 feet of additional wire is ok and might be appreciated if it makes the connection easier. The box must have a separate ground run to a separate ground rod. I first contacted the electric company engineer, who came to my house and looked at the potential installation and verified with his department that it was allowable. He also contacted the electrical inspector for me. I wll need to run 1 inch PVC conduit with a weatherhead to the top of the pole, with the 3 #6 wires installed and secured to conduit with tape until they are wired in by the electric company. I will need to drive an 8 ft grounding rod 2 feet from the pole and run a #6 bare ground to the neutral bus and box. I will need to identify the neutral at the weatherhead and the box by marking it with white shrink wrap, tape or paint. It looks like I will have be able to raise the conduit into position myself since it is all insullated. The electric comany does the live connection after inspection. There is no separate meter box. Power is removed, if necessary, by turning off and removing the breakers. By using a temporary power pole box, I will have the breakers and the outlets in the box, with a weatherproof cover, and will not need a separate box. My temporary power pole box has a 50 amp breaker with the same 50 Amp outlet as and RV park and a 20 Amp GFCI breaker and duplex outlet. VEry much the same as an RV park outlet which includes breakers. The small RV outlet box you can buy at Home Depot and Ace Hardware does not have a breaker, so I would have needed a separate breaker box to run that type outlet box. Again thanks for the help and I am blessed to be living where I can accomplish this so easily. I am sure I could not have in Lakeland, FL. The fact that I am in a rural farming area probably makes it easier. |