| Author |
Message |
john wood (206.252.229.179)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, January 14, 2002 - 7:19 pm: | |
#1 I am just starting to plan my first coach and as a radiant heating contractor, would like to install radiant floor heat in it. Anyone out there have any experience in this matter?
#2 Also; What is the heat loss on a well (foamed) insulated coach at say -20F
#3 Anyone had any experience with walker coach of tennesee? They have some "instant" conversion packages as well as reman coaches titled as new. Any feedback? |
Earl-8-Ky (209.250.47.203)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, January 14, 2002 - 8:32 pm: | |
I don't think you want to buy an old coach titled as new. The taxes will tear you up. Title it as what it is. |
Lee Brady (Leeb11) (199.44.43.153)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, January 14, 2002 - 9:06 pm: | |
John
If you work in the trade,think about it.
I work around alot of radiant floor heating systems in new construction.
I have noticed that the hot water type are
set in concrete,and the electric coverings
just lie there.With all the movement and vibrations inside a coach i would be afraid of the water type and the electic type would require you to be running your generator all the time when not plugged into a landline.
Think the concept is a good one but unfessable
with todays systems.Just my opinion
Lee 66-01 |
Jayjay (207.30.115.130)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, January 15, 2002 - 3:17 am: | |
I've used these systems a bit, and I think the materials are tougher than an old maids heart, and should hold up well in a coach. Look at how much a concrete slab expands/contracts during a heat/cool cycle (day/night)in spring or fall. I believe your biggest concern is the metal walls and low R-Factor of a coach. The situation I'm talking about is the fact that I frequently run my heat on cool nights, then as the day warms, there is no "dead-time" between the heat/cool cycle. As soon as it starts to warm up outside the air conditioner kicks on. When the sun slides between the palm trees, I go almost immediately from cooling to turning up the heat, to take off the evening chill. Your floor is still going to be radiating heat, when you're wanting cooling, due to the excellent heat retention of the floor. I think the electric heat tape would be just dandy, if it weren't so slow to respond. I built a house and put heat tape in the ceiling, and it drove us nuts trying to second guess the ambient temp change, so we could adjust the thermostat ahead of the need, to allow for the lag. HTH, and Cheers...JJ |
Jim Ashworth (Jimnh) (172.139.54.42)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, January 15, 2002 - 8:38 am: | |
Answering question #2- figure on 4-500 btu per degree rise with foam and thermopane windows on a 40 foot bus. Even though foam is good insulation, the ribs go all the way through and the front windshield is a tremendous drain on the heating system. Since you are thinking of hydronic heat of some kind, go with baseboard. The Compac Senior at 700 deg/ft and a couple of toe-spece blowers are just right to take 40,000 btu off the Webasto boiler. As to question #3, ask around a lot before making a decision.
Jim |
john wood (206.252.229.166)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, January 15, 2002 - 6:47 pm: | |
OOPS! I meant Walker of PA and FL not TN.
as to radiant floor tube; it is tough. Biggest concern is having enough BTU from the floor to do the job, or close anyway. Whats a wesbaco? I keep seeing it mentioned as a heat source for space and preheat on engine?
As to taxes? RV's as of this year are MUCH less expensive due to change in law. Insurance and financing should be much cheaper with a "new" title rather than a 30 year old.
Again; thanks for the input and the BBS from BNO. Great service thay offer.
jw |
Jim Ashworth (Jimnh) (172.174.248.148)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, January 15, 2002 - 9:49 pm: | |
Same comments as previous on Walker, wherever he is. I used the Wirsbo manual and calculations to see if radiant heat would work in my bath area since there was no wall space for baseboard. It came up short in the BTU department All I could get is 3000 btu in the open floor area. Just too much heat loss in the area even though there were no windows. I used a 7000 btu blower under a cabinet instead. Webasto is an oil (diesel) fired boiler about 9" diameter and 2' long that can put out 40K btu. Also versions with 80K btu just 2" longer. A small, compact, efficient unit that is 12 or 24 volt. There are others that perform the same function, but Webasto is the most widely used and best known.
Jim |
Joe Shelton (67.242.199.95)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, April 16, 2002 - 12:23 am: | |
I have a 4106 with a Webasto unit and it works great. But I have also thought of putting in radiant floor heat. This would not be a concern if it were not for the wall-to-wall 3/4" nial-down maple I put in. That floor is cold on my old bar feet. But I think I would do a combo baseboard and floor heat on my next one. |