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Message |
Gerald Norman (Gnorman46)
Registered Member
Username: Gnorman46
Post Number: 24
Registered: 12-2006
Posted From: 68.241.112.107
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, January 06, 2007 - 10:23 pm: | |
I would like to empty the A/C compartment and take out the cooling coils etc and use that for my electrical and generator, I would also like to remove the original heating unit and use that space. Any problems in doing this and how much weight will that save me. |
Gerald Norman (Gnorman46)
Registered Member
Username: Gnorman46
Post Number: 25
Registered: 12-2006
Posted From: 68.241.112.107
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, January 06, 2007 - 10:25 pm: | |
The gas engine that powered the A/C is already gone. |
Douglas Wotring (Tekebird)
Registered Member
Username: Tekebird
Post Number: 51
Registered: 10-2004
Posted From: 69.136.90.146
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, January 06, 2007 - 10:28 pm: | |
keep the heat.....best and cheapest road heat you will ever have |
Gus Causbie (Gusc)
Registered Member
Username: Gusc
Post Number: 281
Registered: 11-2005
Posted From: 63.97.117.24
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, January 06, 2007 - 10:34 pm: | |
I agree with Doug if all the heat outlets are still intact and the fan motor works well. It is still a huge fan motor for only a few people, as I remember it draws something like 19 amps.
If you remove the heating coil be sure to plug off the pipes where the hoses connect and leave them in place. They use the same lines as the front WS defroster and driver's heater, you sure want to keep that. You also may want to connect them to a Webasto heater in the future.
Before you disconnect any water lines be sure to shut off the two valves on the left rear firewall so you don't lost any coolant from the engine. You may lose some from the heating lines but not much if you're careful. |
john w. roan (Chessie4905)
Registered Member
Username: Chessie4905
Post Number: 378
Registered: 10-2003
Posted From: 71.58.126.56
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, January 07, 2007 - 9:38 am: | |
Save the aux engine fuel tank if you would like a separate tank for a generator or a little extra fuel capacity, as it doesn't waste any useable space: (mounted above and to the rear of the front axle; accessible from underneath coach if you still have it) If you do, you should drop it and have it cleaned and checked for leaks, and also add a fuel sending unit. |
Gerald Norman (Gnorman46)
Registered Member
Username: Gnorman46
Post Number: 26
Registered: 12-2006
Posted From: 68.241.166.106
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, January 07, 2007 - 3:15 pm: | |
Very good, the gas tank is still there as well as the heater fan. We are planning on using the gas tank for the genset. We may keep the heat for over the road, the previous owner said it was working well. We are going in with wood pergo flooring so I can leave the vents. The only problem I see is there is some sorta unit inside the front vent under the floor that appears to be broken. I don't have a book yet so I will have to wait to find out what it is. The prev owner said it was a control of some sort for the heat.
Thanks again for the information. |
Austin Davis (Zimtok)
Registered Member
Username: Zimtok
Post Number: 61
Registered: 9-2006
Posted From: 216.37.73.226
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, January 08, 2007 - 12:57 pm: | |
My 4104 has the original heat and had the air conditioning system removed. An Onan generator was installed in it's place.
The heat is great (once the engine warms up)and the blower does pull a considerable amount of amps (the lights dim when it is first turned on)
. |
Gerald Norman (Gnorman46)
Registered Member
Username: Gnorman46
Post Number: 27
Registered: 12-2006
Posted From: 68.241.250.154
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, January 08, 2007 - 9:17 pm: | |
Thats what I had heard, good heat lots of amps, I think we have decided to go ahead and remove the heat as well. It wouldn't make sense to keep both. The new one will be less likely to cause problems and we eliminate possible road problems. |
Gus Causbie (Gusc)
Registered Member
Username: Gusc
Post Number: 283
Registered: 11-2005
Posted From: 63.97.117.13
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, January 09, 2007 - 12:44 am: | |
Gerald,
If you have the usual 160 amp truck alternator the 19 amps used by the fan motor is not much of a load, it might even be good exercise for the alt!! The problem to me is repairing the monster motor if it ever fails. I already purchased a school bus type heater just in case.
My alt doesn't charge half the time because the only usual load is battery charging. |
FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
Registered Member
Username: Fast_fred
Post Number: 92
Registered: 10-2006
Posted From: 4.235.203.41
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, January 09, 2007 - 6:12 am: | |
On our '06 Sportscar the heat setup is similar.
We tossed the heat and AC evaporator and installed a 40,000btu boat unit. It sucks air from the side with holes , that used to be added to the return HVAC air.
Fresh warm air ,with the circ pump , can be has for hours AFTER engine shutdown, using no fuel,and tiny DC electric.
In the summer its a good powered intake too.
The HUGE stock heat radiator was needed to condition the temperature and dehumidify as the Air cond ran full blast , the heater would bring the air to reasonable temp.
KEEP the defroster for the driver.
With this setup , drivers defroster and 40,000btu "box heater" we have been comfortable in 10F . The aftermost part of the bus was down to about 50F , but 5 min after stopping to camp the furnace evens the temperature.
Works for me,
FF |