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vern rainville (68.14.3.87)

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Posted on Monday, February 18, 2002 - 6:42 am:   

I have an Eagle 01. Iwould like to increase my driving range by increasing my fuel capacity. I have read, some time ago, certain other tanks from different coaches will fit, perhaps with some modifications. I know I can have one fabricated, but VERY EXPENSIVE, not to mention DOT ratings.Has anyone "swapped " tanks? I presently have two 50 gal saddle tanks, for a total of 100 gal, factory installed.I would like to be 200 + gal for a larger range. Any help appreciated. VERN "62-01
John Ogle (64.12.101.167)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 20, 2002 - 1:10 am:   

Vern, I have an 870 Grumman. The one tank on it is almost full width under the frame. I am not sure what the capacity is, but 60 to 100 gallons is probably close. The rear axle is located by an attachment welded to the tank so it is literally built like a tank. When you say "fuel" and tank together, all fabricators think of liability and jack their prices accordingly. Some shopping around, boat accessories, etc. might turn up a usable reasonably priced unit.
John O. (152.163.206.196)

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Posted on Sunday, February 24, 2002 - 9:55 am:   

Tape measure in hand, my 870 Grumman tank is 10" x 41" x approx 90". It calculates out to approx 160 gallons! (231 ci/gal).
Scott Whitney (66.214.66.193)

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Posted on Sunday, February 24, 2002 - 3:40 pm:   

I am attempting to learn some basic prgramming techniques. One of my first projects is a tank size calculator. It is a bit crude right now, but if anyone would like to test it out, here is the link:

http://www.dustyfoot.com/calc-tanksize.html

Also, in an effort to learn more complicated techniques, I am looking for ideas on other calculators that might be useful to busnuts. (i.e. wheel sizes, drive ratios, MPG, wire gauges etc.) If you have a suggestion, please let me know.

Thanks,
Scott
Glenn (Paso) (209.179.204.254)

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Posted on Sunday, February 24, 2002 - 10:17 pm:   

HEY scott I like the tank calculator,its great!
what do you do if its not square,like on a boat?
FAST FRED (209.26.87.57)

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Posted on Monday, February 25, 2002 - 5:43 am:   

The hardest is a trapozoid , there the measurements are taken at the top , bottom and arround the middle .

Becomes sort of a guestimate , but lots better than ,
emptying the tank and doing a calibrated refill.

Remember most tanks do not give the last few gallons , in order to leave the slime behind.

FAST FRED
Scott Whitney (66.214.66.193)

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Posted on Monday, February 25, 2002 - 1:39 pm:   

Trapeziod tank? Dunno! I am sure I can find the formula in a geometry book. . . I'll look into that one.

Scott
John Biundo (Jbiundo) (67.112.122.216)

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Posted on Monday, February 25, 2002 - 9:21 pm:   

Hey Scott,

How about something that helps calculate BTU's required for a given temperature differential, given, say total square foot of walls+ceiling+floor, average R-value of insulation, and total square foot of window space?

Don't know if those are all the inputs to get a "reasonable" estimate, but that would be interesting.

Just a thought.

John
FAST FRED (209.26.87.91)

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Posted on Tuesday, February 26, 2002 - 5:27 am:   

SO many coaches are different that a rulle of thumb is hard to figgure.

However its pretty eazy to work out for YOUR coach if you have an electric heater, and a real good thermostat.

Power the heater with a real good extension cord , and read that your getting full voltage at the plug.

The heater can be left on all night , and in the AM , before the sunrise , you simply take an accurate temp inside and outside.

AS heating is fairly linear , if you find that a 5000 BTU heater raises the coach 5 deg, then a 50,000 BTU heater would be needed for about 50 deg.

If you like it 80 inside and plan on going skiing where its 10 below the Delta T ( the difference in temps) would be 90deg , so you would need 90,000 btu OUTPUT from the heating system.

ON my 4106 I found that a 5000 BTU electric heater would give about 12 deg of inside rise.

So my choice of a 42,000 BTU input ,
perhaps 30,000 BTU out put gives about a 72 deg rise , certainly enough for this Snowbird.

Each coach is different , so measure yours!

There will also be a difference caused by the good circulation of a real furnace vs the poor circ of only one electric heater, but at least its a ball park.

FAST FRED
Scott Whitney (66.214.66.193)

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Posted on Tuesday, February 26, 2002 - 2:27 pm:   

I'd still like to attempt to build a calculator for this. It could be two-parted. One for heating and another for AC. But, I don't know where to get the formulas. Maybe Clarke E. would know. I have been to the Home Depot site, (which BTW now lists thousands of products - great for research!) and use their house AC calculator. But it seems way off for bus use. For example, I put in room dimensions of 38x8x7 and it told me I needed 8,000 BTU of cooling. Well, that is less than the wimpiest of one rooftop AC and I know that is grossly inadequate for even the best insulated coach. However, if I knew the formula and could tweak a constant and add a couple more variables (like insulation thickness & glass area, as John B suggested) I might be able to get something more usable for busses. Any ideas?

Scott
John Biundo (Jbiundo) (67.112.122.216)

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Posted on Tuesday, February 26, 2002 - 3:17 pm:   

Hi Scott,

I'm too lazy to go check (actually, fighting my self-imposed deadline to get my roof raised this week, and a little behind so far), but I'm almost positive Clarke has done a full seminar on this in one of his posts. If not, I'm sure he could ;-) I think both FF's method, plus a calculator, would be useful. Real world cross-checking of the theory is always interesting, at the least.

john
Scott Whitney (66.214.66.193)

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Posted on Tuesday, February 26, 2002 - 3:36 pm:   

I'll see if I can find something in one of Clarke's post on Mak's board. If not I'll ask him.

I agree FF's real-world method is a great way to check the theory. I would guess FF's measurement method could be used for AC's too . . . However, the AC test would have to be done in the daytime and other factors would have to be taken into account. Shadows on coach, direction into sun it is pointed, time of year etc. . .

To do either test with a high accuracy, it would need to be done in a warehouse or barn of a known constant temp., I would think. Otherwise, at what time do you take your outside temp reading? Could probably do an average of an hourly sample for a very close estimate.

Scott
FAST FRED (209.26.87.20)

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Posted on Tuesday, February 26, 2002 - 3:55 pm:   

NOPE , there is no real difference in the performance of insulation if your keeping IN the heat or keeping OUT the heat.

The big difference is insolation, how much heat the coach picks up from being in the sun.

White as white as you can get it , on the roof, and awnings if you have an orig looking coach is only help in summer.

OR park under a tree!

Two rooftops , or a well installed basement seems fine for most folks.

AS long as they don't have a black roof in texas!

FAST FRED
Tom Caffrey (Pvcces) (12.146.33.122)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 27, 2002 - 4:06 pm:   

Fast Fred, we've found that wind has a big impact on our heating. While I'm sure we have some air leaks, I got the idea that the window losses increase quite a bit when it is windy.

Also, because of where we live, we know that if you want to be able to stay warm in a cold environment, being able to heat up a room fairly quickly makes quite a difference in how you feel about it.

We think of it as insecurity about being able to get warm. To me, being able to boost the heat if I am cold makes me better able to tolerate chilly conditions.

In the end, we use less heat because we waste it less if we know there is plenty available. In the coach, that means there has to be several sources of heat.

In this, I think it is just like the multiple air conditioners on a lot of motorhomes. I think going for a little overkill may have some value, but I also think it is good to think it out.

In any case, if you want to be prepared to go anywhere cold, you should make sure that you are only using vented heating equipment.

Tom Caffrey PD4106-2576
Wayne Buttress (Flyingb) (66.52.189.77)

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Posted on Sunday, March 03, 2002 - 4:13 pm:   

Howdy guys,
Most RV parks have either 30amp or 50amp hookups. Are these 110v or 220v recepticles? I am using a 50amp pigtail to the distribution panel and was wondering if it gets connected as 220v or 110v?
Pete (152.163.213.71)

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Posted on Sunday, March 03, 2002 - 4:28 pm:   

LOL I'd be happy just having a fule gauage
Lin (65.184.0.189)

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Posted on Sunday, March 03, 2002 - 10:01 pm:   

FF's proportion method of determining heat requirements should be close enough if you give a bit of a safety factor since the greater the differential between the inside and outside air, the greater the heat migration. Also, aside from loosing heat on the road to leaks, the windchill factor has a real effect. Your glass of water in a 60 mph wind will freeze faster than one in still air.
jmaxwell (66.42.92.34)

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Posted on Sunday, March 03, 2002 - 11:18 pm:   

John O: Your Grumman 870 is 135 gal. for a 40' model and 130 gal. for a 35' model. Notice that the tank is not flat on the bottom but tapered.

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