| Author | Message | ||
| Christopher Goodwin (Cgoodwin)
Registered Member Username: Cgoodwin Post Number: 53 Registered: 10-2005 Posted From: 67.40.193.222 Rating: |
In an old post I was unable to revive Craig Smith wrote that he can run an AC unit off the stock alternator. My bus is fitted with a 270 amp 24vdc alternator, gear driven (6V92TA) and I have been wondering about the ability to run a roof top AC off it, through an inverter of course, while driving. I am a bit concerned that the alt may not really be designed for max output at all times and may heat up and burn out. Does anyone have experience with this??? | ||
| Richard Bowyer (Drivingmisslazy)
Registered Member Username: Drivingmisslazy Post Number: 1945 Registered: 1-2001 Posted From: 75.108.76.131 Rating: N/A |
What makes you think it will be operating at max output all the time? 270 amps at 24 volts is equal to 6,480 watts available. A big rooftop A/C would draw, at the most 15 amps continuous at 120 volts. This would be equal to 1800 watts. 24 volts at 75 amps is equal to 1800 watts. Figure 10 percent inefficiency in the inverter and you would still be using only 1,980 watts. It seems like you would have lots of capacity available. Richard | ||
| Pete/RTS Daytona (Pete_rtsdaytona)
Registered Member Username: Pete_rtsdaytona Post Number: 361 Registered: 1-2005 Posted From: 208.118.14.63 Rating: N/A |
Chris Delco 50DN alternator 165 amps @ 28v MAX @ Idle = 4620 watts 250 amps @ 28v MAX @ full = 7000 watts When my RTS was in transit service - the (2) 24V electric Condenser fans motors running on high at full load drew 35 amps EACH or almost 2000 watts - these fans run ALL THE TIME in transit service - 150,000 BTU A/C units - long since removed for RV conversion so your 1800 watts Roof/top a/c (no problem) I run my 15000 BTU 1800 watt low profile Dometic ducted a/c with a Xantrex 24v 3kw Prosine - with no problems use to run it with a trace DR3624 - modified sine 3600 watts / 24 volts - no problems Pete RTS/Daytona | ||
| Christopher Goodwin (Cgoodwin)
Registered Member Username: Cgoodwin Post Number: 54 Registered: 10-2005 Posted From: 71.212.56.149 Rating: N/A |
I have a Xantrex SW4024 and just had two 15k roof tops delivered ($740 ea including interior panel, shipping and insurance). On my Neoplan none of the windows can be opened underway and I am planning a 800 mile trip at the months end and it looks like 100F will be the norm on the drive. I have a 6.5kw honda gas genset which I converted to propane, it was a contractor model and I was planning to mount it in a bay, in a box with a large squirrel cage fan forcing air through the radiator and out a vent to keep it cool and run the AC's off this. If I can run them off the bus alt through the SW4024 it may be a better option... BTW thanks Pete for the leveling valves, the first two I got worked so well I just had to have two more! | ||
| Christopher Goodwin (Cgoodwin)
Registered Member Username: Cgoodwin Post Number: 55 Registered: 10-2005 Posted From: 71.212.56.149 Rating: N/A |
Have a look at the progress I have made on the bus at www.frybrid.com/bus.htm | ||
| Nick Badame Refrigeration Co. (Dnick85)
Registered Member Username: Dnick85 Post Number: 145 Registered: 2-2006 Posted From: 75.198.64.21 Rating: N/A |
Hi Christopher, What ever you decide on, it would be good sence to have a back-up or redundency way to achieve your goal. Let's say your altenator quit. It's 95+ deg's, will you be able to also run your A/C from your generator while underway? If so, great! If not, try to achieve that, you will have less worries. Good Luck Nick- | ||
| Richard Bowyer (Drivingmisslazy)
Registered Member Username: Drivingmisslazy Post Number: 1946 Registered: 1-2001 Posted From: 75.108.76.131 Rating: N/A |
Chris, Unless every stop is at a campground you will still need a genset for the A/C, assuming you do not want to run the main engine 24/7. Richard | ||
| Christopher Goodwin (Cgoodwin)
Registered Member Username: Cgoodwin Post Number: 56 Registered: 10-2005 Posted From: 71.212.56.149 Rating: N/A |
True, the 2 strokes don't idle well to begine with and "wet stack", on this trip I am going to visit family with a huge place and we will only be in the bus on the way there + a night camping and the same on the way back. When stopped every other window (3'x6') opens. I am really concerned about keeping the family cool on the drive. When complete I will have a gen set, solar etc. but right now I am just setting up for this trip as I do not have time to get everything done, I have a business and a 4 year old and little time for the bus, that is why it has taken me so long. I can not mount anything permanently as I have not figured out where the tanks will be, the battery bank, or the veg oil system, I am just concerned with getting 400 miles each way without passing out from the heat. It has been 95 in Seattle lately whihc is very rare, I just drove 20 miles with no AC to have everything checked over for the trip (brakes, jake, running gear, etc) and it was miserable, we will need AC for the drive. If I can drop the SW4024 in a bay and connect the AC to it and the Alt and get down the road I am all for it, if not I will install the genset and build a ducted box and run the thing on Propane for the drive. I bow to experience. I am concerned as the gear driven alt (new) if it were to fail would drop bearings through the cam gears.... | ||
| James Robinson (Jjrbus)
Registered Member Username: Jjrbus Post Number: 89 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 76.1.180.218 Rating: N/A |
Maybe I am reading this wrong, are you planning on wireing the alternator directly to the inverter, without batteries? | ||
| Nick Badame Refrigeration Co. (Dnick85)
Registered Member Username: Dnick85 Post Number: 147 Registered: 2-2006 Posted From: 75.198.196.7 Rating: N/A |
Hi Christopher, it sounds like you need a generator....even a portable one might be better then running with no batt bank. Anyway, you will be hard pressed to feel any cool air with 1 rooftop A/C on a 95 deg. day doing 60 mph with no insulation. I will be like your whole family fighting over an ice cube! There is more then 1 reason why the OTR A/C system that came with your bus is 11 tons. The heat loss from highway speeds is tremendous! I'm not trying to spoil your trip, just trying to keep your wife from bickering at you! Sorry man, I feel for you.. Good Luck Nick- | ||
| Donn Reeves (Donnreeves)
Registered Member Username: Donnreeves Post Number: 11 Registered: 3-2007 Posted From: 69.115.76.219 Rating: N/A |
I run my front 13,500 BTU Carrier off a 2512 Xantrax and the house battery bank powered by a 140 amp Leese-Nevile alternator. With ducts over the front seats, we have yet to turn the fan to high, even at 95 degrees. I usually have to spin the diffusers to blow away from me, or it freezes me out. Donn | ||
| Pete/RTS Daytona (Pete_rtsdaytona)
Registered Member Username: Pete_rtsdaytona Post Number: 362 Registered: 1-2005 Posted From: 208.118.14.63 Rating: N/A |
Chris Very Inportant PLEASE - Please use input and out circuit breakers for the A/C side and a D/C protection device for the inverter D/C input - even for just a temporary hook-up Need you safe - I still have a bunch of WVO questions to ask you (www.frybrid.com) Pete RTS/Daytona (Message edited by pete RTS/Daytona on July 13, 2007) | ||
| Jeffrey Smith (Greenhornet)
Registered Member Username: Greenhornet Post Number: 43 Registered: 12-2006 Posted From: 76.110.30.60 Rating: N/A |
"Have a look at the progress I have made on the bus at www.frybrid.com/bus.htm " quote WOW! :Þ Mighty impressive. A lot of neat ideas for my whenever bus! | ||
| Christopher Goodwin (Cgoodwin)
Registered Member Username: Cgoodwin Post Number: 57 Registered: 10-2005 Posted From: 71.212.49.178 Rating: N/A |
"PLEASE - Please use input and out circuit breakers for the A/C side and a D/C protection device for the inverter D/C input - even for just a temporary hook-up" Please explain. Here is what I am working with: 1) Honda 6.5kw gas genset converted to Propane (by me) 2) Two Carrier low profile 15k AC units Can I just install the AC units in the bus, wire them directly to plugs, plug the plugs into the outlets on the genset which have breakers. Start the genset, turn on the AC units, and go? What would be the minimum size for a batt bank, I am planning on 8x 8d before this is all over but simply do not have time before theis trip. Without too much digression, have a look at this http://www.frybrid.com/forum/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=45 I designed and built this system, the family then drove from Seattle to NY, zigzagging across the country and Canada for 3 months. Total fuel bill.... $47 (Message edited by cgoodwin on July 13, 2007) | ||
| Richard Bowyer (Drivingmisslazy)
Registered Member Username: Drivingmisslazy Post Number: 1947 Registered: 1-2001 Posted From: 75.108.76.131 Rating: N/A |
Chris, there is really no reason why you can not let your coach idle for two nights. One going, one coming back. You would need to have the high idle on. I personally spent several nights with my engine idling all night so I had some heat when my Webasto quit. And thousands and thousands of trucks idled all night every night, for years at the truck stops. You could easily run both of your A/C's on the inverter and coach alternator. A couple of house batteries would be all you need to stabilize the system for this trip and that would probably be much easier than trying to jury rig the genset. And it would not be wasted effort. The genset very probably would give you overheat problems and lots of noise and it would just be wasted effort as you would take it out when you get back home. Richard (Message edited by DrivingMissLazy on July 13, 2007) | ||
| ChuckMC9 (Chucks)
Registered Member Username: Chucks Post Number: 1130 Registered: 10-2003 Posted From: 70.2.51.208 Rating: N/A |
Christopher, take your time on that beautiful job. In your last episode you'd just installed the Shoji's and I remembered what a class act you were building. Every view reflects that. The craftsmanship is evident. It's almost too nice to clutter it up with furniture! | ||
| Christopher Goodwin (Cgoodwin)
Registered Member Username: Cgoodwin Post Number: 58 Registered: 10-2005 Posted From: 71.212.49.178 Rating: N/A |
Richard, I am really not bothered about the nights, we can open all the windows and be just fine. I am only concerned with the drive for this trip, how many house batts do you think I will need for this trip just to stabilize the alt output? Do you think that the genset in a box with a large fan pulling air over it will overheat? It is a very quite unit, I ran it in my shop yesterday at 90F and powered a large Mig welder, I was going to test run it today for a few hours with a load on it. Just sitting in the open in my shop it is quiter than most of the gensets I have heard on buses (Band tour buses park across the street from my shop at least twice a week). Chuck, Thank you. It has been a labor of love, I will try to get some newer photos up soon, it is difficult to photograph due to all the glass and stainless. My daughter loves her room, mostly because it is hers and is quite light with one side being nothing but glass and the other being a Shoji. I have been doing the shower door lately, it too is a shoji with polycarbonate in the place of the rice paper. The shower is set into the floor 10" so I can stand in it (I am 6'4") and the bottom part can be filled 16" with water to form a small tub for my little girl. When the shower is not in use the shoji covers it revealing a Tansu dresser and wardrobe, when you slide it to open the shower it covers the Tansu.. Make sense? For this trip I am just covering the floor in the living area with carpets and pillows, eventually there will be a couch and two chairs. | ||
| Richard Bowyer (Drivingmisslazy)
Registered Member Username: Drivingmisslazy Post Number: 1948 Registered: 1-2001 Posted From: 75.108.76.131 Rating: N/A |
Chris, just got a chance to review your photos! Awesome is not adequate to describe what you have done. And I am glad to see you posting again. Regarding the genset. most industrial units require a large amount of free air as they are typically air cooled as opposed to water cooled. While I was traveling throughout the country, I found it very nice to have A/C throughout the evening and many times all night. Based on the capacity of the alternator, as posted by Pete, I think a minimum of one or two group 31's would be sufficient. It probably would work OK without any at all, but I would personally stick in a couple. Richard (Message edited by DrivingMissLazy on July 13, 2007) | ||
| Pete/RTS Daytona (Pete_rtsdaytona)
Registered Member Username: Pete_rtsdaytona Post Number: 363 Registered: 1-2005 Posted From: 208.118.14.63 Rating: N/A |
Chris My guess is you have a HONDA ES6500 water cooled generator - contractor style - Yes - you can plug your Air/C units directly to them - thier outlets are protected by duel 20 amp circuit breakers - I believe that there is someone here in Florida that is using the same generator in his bus (I think it's Cliff FLORIDA-CRACKER nice guy from Ocala Fl. ??) - I know because I sold him a used ES6500 Honda generator - hopefully he will post about his experience with running that genny in a bus - I believe it would be just find - Just make sure you have a way to exhaust the hot air and an un-obstructed path for air to enter. My concern for A/C input/output circuit breaker for the TRACE SW4024 is INCORRECT I called Xantrex - it seem that the SW4024 has a built in 35 amp Circuit breaker that PROTECTs both the input and put a/c circuits. Read the manual about protecting the D/C input side - that should have a very big Fuse or C/B On my set-up - I just have (4) 12v group 31 batteries - I pick them up at INTERSTATE BATTERY (the company outlets - not the local garages) - I get group 31 batteries (used in most trucks) for $25 - they're marked BLEM - because they are a year old and they can't sell them as new. only have a 30 day guarentee - but they last about 4-6 years for me. - You could just get away with (2) - they just serve as a buffer between the inverter and the alternator As far as running BOTH 1800 watt Air/C unit off the trace sw4024 - that's a little risky - at 10% loss and both compressors running in 95 degree weather - you would be running the Trace at MAX CAPACIY. never a good idea (Message edited by pete RTS/Daytona on July 13, 2007) | ||
| Christopher Goodwin (Cgoodwin)
Registered Member Username: Cgoodwin Post Number: 59 Registered: 10-2005 Posted From: 67.40.193.222 Rating: N/A |
You are correct, it is a Honda ES6500 and is water cooled and very quiet. Attached is a diagram of what I am considering for the mounting. Building a plywood enclosure in the bay with foam insulation against the bay door sealing it more or less once the door is closed. the gen set will be right against the door or close enough and a hole will be cut in the door and a screen installed. The unit as an electric fan on the radiator already but I will supplement this with a large squirrel cage fan behind the unit pulling air form the enclosure and blowing it through a hole in the floor of the bay... What do you think? Could not attach diagram, it is at http://www.frybrid.com/images/busgen.jpg I may try to get the SW4024 wired up with a couple of 8d cells I have laying around, I am a bit concerned about the neutral bond as has been noted on these two pages... http://www.ourodyssey.us/bus-e-ats.html http://www.gumpydog.com/bus/MC9_WIP/Electrical/Wiring/House_Wiring/AC_Electrical_Panel/ac_ electrical_panel.htm (Message edited by cgoodwin on July 13, 2007) (Message edited by cgoodwin on July 13, 2007) (Message edited by cgoodwin on July 13, 2007) | ||
| Leland Bradley (Lee_bradley)
Registered Member Username: Lee_bradley Post Number: 11 Registered: 11-2006 Posted From: 138.163.0.46 Rating: N/A |
Chris, Very nice. I am envious. I have a 91 Cityliner with the 8V92TA and the mid/rear door. Our buses could be twins except mine is a 102" and built in Colorado. I am planning on buying a 6010 factory propane and a SW4024. Do you have screens for the windows you plan on opening? I am using my as a steel tent right now with the stove and sink recovered from my scrapped pickup camper just to make sure I get some use out of the bus during conversion. I'm surprised you kept the factory heating radiators. How is that working for you? Any problems regulating the temperature per room? If you get over my way, give me a call. I'm in the book. Leland Bradley Kingston, WA | ||
| Christopher Goodwin (Cgoodwin)
Registered Member Username: Cgoodwin Post Number: 60 Registered: 10-2005 Posted From: 67.40.193.222 Rating: N/A |
Mine was built in Stuttgart and had Mercedes running gear and I believe it is 2" wider than the US models. Some chump tossed a chunk of concrete through the drivers side windshield last winter but i managed to get one from Neopart and they had to use the VIN to get the right one since there is a difference between the Euro and US models. I have built mine on a tight budget simply because I am cheap! I did drop some money on the floor but built everything else myself. The factory radiators provide great heat when running and I tracked down and rebuilt a 35k Webasto diesel fired water heater which will provide heat when parked, even in the dead of winter I was able to keep it pleasant inside. I am going to add a couple of water heater elements in a tube and plumb it inline with the Webasto so I can use shore power to heat the water when it is available. Since the floor plan is so open I do not see a real issue with heat regulation, it all seems to heat and cool pretty evenly. My first bus was a GMC fishbowl with a 6V71, I sold a VW bug and used the money to buy the bus in LA and a trashed motorhome. Pulled the appliances and tanks from the motorhome in a parking lot in LA, loaded it all in the bus and drove it to San Filepe Mexico where i hacked a conversion together and strapped my 8 sea kayaks to the roof. 2 years later I had been to Nicaragua and back and settled in La Paz where I opened an eco tourism company. That trip had a great effect on the diesgn choices I have made for this bus. I left all the windows because in my Fishbowl I could open the windows and drive with No AC, when parked I opened the windows out from the bottom and made 1/4" plywood shades the size of the windows which I placed on the open window to form a little "Shade roof". Parked on the coast at night with all the windows open I could sleep comfortably with just a sheet. If there were mozzies I would either move someplace else or run a small oscillating fan off a seperate battery, it would last through the night and keep the little buggers off me. So I decided to keep all the windows on this one as well and rig them to open when parked. The bus will not be a full time rig, my wife works most weekends, I am self employed (which means I have either time or money but rarely both). My plan is to take it from Seattle to the coast for 3 day weekends year round at least once a month, drive it to Boise where the wifes family lives (big house with a 50' barn for the bus and spare rooms with AC etc) and in the winter to head down to the Baja for a month or so. I am making drapes for the windows this weekend from fabric I collected when travelling, cotton from India and Japan. You know the issues with the shape of the windows, my plan is a curtain rod at the top and another smaller rod at the apex of the arc, so the curtain will hang from the upper rod, run behind the second rod and drop to the bottom of the window. In the seam at the bottom seam of the curtain I am sweing Japanese 5 yen coins as weights so they hang well (5 yen coins are about .05 ea and are not only considered to be good luck but they are not lead so I don't have to worry about the little one eating them - and they look cool and are a good story). I am not going to wory about mozzy nets at this point, I have a couple of cieling hung net bed enclosures from my travel days and if there becomes an issue I can hang them from the cieling over the beds. If you need any information on your cityliner I have all the factory manuals and have come to know the systems quite well. I strongly advise getting 4 of Pete Papas' leveling valves, they are simple to install and give me a flat bus regardless of where I park (within reason). Another tip, if you ahve rust like I do in the sheet metal. My road AC drains were plugged and the AC dripped water between the skin and the frame under the rear set of windows rusting through as well as along the back just above the motor bay door (www.frybrid.com/busrust.htm), every place I took it to wanted to rust mort the rust and put bondo and a patch over the top and paint it to the tune of $5k with paint for an issue that would just pop up again even worse. Sooo if you look along the top of the bays you will see an aluminum angle iron running the length of the bus, look at the bottom of the windows and you will see another aluminum strip with a rubber insert spaced about 1/4" from the bus (to allow drainage), remove both of these and you will find a row of rivets holding the skin on the bus from the top of the bays to the bottom of the windows. Drill them and pull the skin stopping just short of the door openings. Call any sheetmetal vendor and ask them for white powdercoated sheet metal for roofing, it is $60 for a 4' x 10' section galvanized on the back and warenteed for 35 years. attach it just as the original was with sikaflex on the frame work and rivets top and bottom. Can be done with minimal tools in a few days and you don't even need to paint it! Just run a bead of bath caulk right at the vertical seams. Whole job should cost about $600 if you need to buy an electric metal sheer. (remember the distance between the bay tops and the window bottom changes about 4" over the run of the bus, higher in front). | ||
| john w. roan (Chessie4905)
Registered Member Username: Chessie4905 Post Number: 628 Registered: 10-2003 Posted From: 71.58.117.21 Rating: N/A |
To each his own, BUT I would set them up to run off the Honda generator for this first trip, as you don't want to try to figure out what all you need to do for correct inverter setup on a short notice. You'll have enough other things to shake out on that trip without adding extra complexeties. | ||
| Christopher Goodwin (Cgoodwin)
Registered Member Username: Cgoodwin Post Number: 61 Registered: 10-2005 Posted From: 67.40.193.222 Rating: N/A |
What do you think of the enclosure idea? | ||
| Florida Cliff (Floridacracker)
Registered Member Username: Floridacracker Post Number: 321 Registered: 7-2004 Posted From: 67.8.199.203 Rating: N/A |
Chris, As Pete said I have the 6500 also. I ran two a/c's straight off the gen (seperate citcuits) on an early trip. Ran fine. Only issue is as others have stated is plenty of cooling air flow`. Mine is in the old a/c compartment with a vented door. I added a fan 24vdc to move some air underway. I ended up using the 240vac plug to feed my panel as the breakers (gen) wanted neutral isolation from each other, Kept tripping under load. There may be an alternate configuration for this, but it failed on a trip and a/c was at a premium. Plus I am running both a/c's when using the gen so load balancing isn't much of an issue. Cliff | ||
| Christopher Goodwin (Cgoodwin)
Registered Member Username: Cgoodwin Post Number: 62 Registered: 10-2005 Posted From: 67.40.193.222 Rating: N/A |
"the breakers (gen) wanted neutral isolation from each other, Kept tripping under load." So I will not be able to plug one AC into each plug? What if I split the 240 outlet with one leg for each AC unit? | ||
| Sean Welsh (Sean)
Registered Member Username: Sean Post Number: 582 Registered: 1-2003 Posted From: 66.82.9.53 Rating: N/A |
Chris, First off, the bus looks great so far. Just to add my $0.02 to all the above, we routinely run not one, but two air conditioners on our inverter while running down the road, and, even then, there is still plenty of juice left to charge batteries. We have the same 50DN alternator that you have. But I will also second the motion to put your DC fuse in before hooking up the inverter, and also to protect the A/C's individually with 20A breakers between them and the inverter. If you want to be able to also run them on your genny in the interim, no problem putting cords and plugs on them, and wiring a couple 20-amp receptacles into the inverter (with breakers, of course). If the cords will be long enough to reach outside the bus to use the genny, I suggest going up one gauge. Get a couple contractor-grade 12-gauge extension cords, for instance. Just don't bury the cordsets in the wall -- they need to be in open air. HTH. -Sean http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com | ||
| George M. Todd (George_mc6)
Registered Member Username: George_mc6 Post Number: 224 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 76.168.69.233 Rating: N/A |
Chris, What does the 240 outlet you are talking about splitting say on it? Specifically 120/240 40A, will work, but if it just says something like 40A 250 V, you CANNOT "split" it into two 120 V circuits. George | ||
| Florida Cliff (Floridacracker)
Registered Member Username: Floridacracker Post Number: 322 Registered: 7-2004 Posted From: 67.8.199.203 Rating: N/A |
Chris, I should have explained this better. When I tried to use the two seperate output circuits off of the Gen as a feed for my main panel, the Gen did not like me combining the grounds and neutral at the main panel from the two plugs. I was not using this as 240, but two 120 feeds. It would always trip one of them under load. When I ran it off of the 240 plug everything was fine. You can use the two 120 outlets with a plug to each a/c with no problem. Cliff | ||
| Christopher Goodwin (Cgoodwin)
Registered Member Username: Cgoodwin Post Number: 63 Registered: 10-2005 Posted From: 71.212.53.189 Rating: N/A |
Ok check me here please. Here is my latest plan: Install the two 15k low profile units on the roof through the escape hatches with adaptors I will TIG from 5052 aluminum and install seals on to mate to the existing aluminum hatch coaming. Run a length of waterproof flexable conduit from one unit to the other, then from the back unit reward into the AC cowling and down to the engine bay, along the top of the bay and through the chase into the main bay on the drives rear of the bus. Break the romex out of the conduit and connect plugs on the two seperate strands and plug them into the breaker protected plugs on the generator in its enclosure. When the gen is started it will power the squirrel cage fan for ventilation and provide power to the AC units which can then be turned on from inside the coach. Eventually I will wire up the SW4024, 8 x 8d batteries, the alternator, shore power and the genset once I understand the bonded neutral issues... Would this be simpler than dropping a pair of 8d batts in the bay and connecting them to the SW4024 and connecting it to the alt??? Seems like with the gen solution I would have seperate systems and if the gen failed I would only loose AC as opposed to risking not charging the starting batts... Am I overthingking this? Because it seems pretty complicated to me. I can rebuild a Porsche motor in my sleep and tell you all about fuel injection pluse duration or mass air flow sensors, I designed the computer which runs my veg oil systems and used to design underwater filming gear, but all the bonded neutral, jazz I just can not get a grip on... I ran my genset for hours today on Propane, powered a mig welder for a while, then a water heater for hours with no problems, it didn't even get hot. Seems like I will use a small propane canister every 8 hours or so running the AC units just off the genset, these can be swapped out at just about any gas station so carrying 3 or 4 shoudl be no issue (I know, sealed box, holes in the bottom for ventilation, propane alarm in the bay). | ||
| Christopher Goodwin (Cgoodwin)
Registered Member Username: Cgoodwin Post Number: 64 Registered: 10-2005 Posted From: 71.212.53.189 Rating: N/A |
Sean, good to hear from you again, I still have the hubcaps waiting to go on the bus, thanks again. I just looked through your site again and getting advice on wiring from the most detail oriented wiring guy I have ever met is welcome! Please never come to my shop and look at my wiring on my compressor, metal shear or welders. You should have contacted me before heading to Mexico, I lived there for nearly a decade and could have given you some good pointers and a reality check. So many exagerations and so many cautions never given have led to a lot of misunderstandings south of the border. On another note, I cut up a bunch of metal today to build a rack off the rear bumper of the Cityliner (I am going to name it "Stone Soup" when it is done because the only thing left of the bus I purchased will likely be the steering wheel) to carry my Ducati 900ss, it is the narrowest of my bikes other than the Norton Cafe Racer which is just too impractical. My plan is a channel the width of the rear tire running side to side, on the drivers side will be a wheel brace for the front wheel and I will have steel square stock sticking out about 18" from the channel with eyes on the ends for tie downs and a ramp which can be attached to the passenger side of the channel for loading and unloading. I am hoping to load and strap the Duc on the rear, cover it with a cover and transport it that way so I have transport in the event of a break down and to run out for the occational emergency supply (wine). Do you see any issues with this? My bays are not as tall as yours and none of my biles will go under the bus rubber side down. | ||
| Sean Welsh (Sean)
Registered Member Username: Sean Post Number: 585 Registered: 1-2003 Posted From: 208.178.75.194 Rating: N/A |
Chris, I had just such a rack on my Fleetwood sticks-and-staples before I got the bus. I carried a Honda CM400T (with Vetter fairing) on there. The biggest issue I had was loading the bike -- the rack was a good 2' above the pavement. I had to put the bike in first, stand next to it, and use the throttle and clutch to roll it up the ramp and onto the rack, the whole time worrying that it was going to fall over on me. Your rack will likely be lower, but I advise you to be careful not to compromise your angle-of-departure on the bus. We drag hard parts nearly every time we leave a driveway, and you don't want your rack to be the component taking any weight. Lastly, we are constantly washing dirt and a thin film of 40-weight off the back of our bus. If we had a bike back there, I would have it completely covered while under way. So invest in a full cover for your duck. HTH. -Sean http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com | ||
| Chuck Newman (Chuck_newman)
Registered Member Username: Chuck_newman Post Number: 203 Registered: 1-2005 Posted From: 71.130.233.12 Rating: N/A |
Chris, First of all, DO NOT cover your bike in transit if you have any paint on it you want to keep. A cover flopping on a bike in motion is like rubbing sand paper on the painted surfaces. Second, your ramp sounds good, like most for sale on eBay and other sites. One pitfall I ran into: I purchased the frame steel locally, and a manufactured 8" wide carrier and ramp from Northern Tools to build myself and save bucks (only about $55.00 for both). The plan was to use it on both the bus and van, the latter with added Firestone air bags. What I didn't realize is the difference in carrier height between the two vehicles -- about 13" for the van and 25" for the bus. I'm 6' at 205, and their is no way I can control an 800 lb Harley with my feet on the ground and the bike 25" in the air. I don't know what height you will load your bike to on your bus. Something to think about. I looked at electric and motor hydraulic units that raise and lower from ground to running height, all up in the $2.7K to $4K price range, and most permanently attached to the coach. I settled on a $795. manual hydraulic unit made in Oklahoma as compromise. Will handle 1000+ pounds and has three 2-1/2" receiver ports for lift strength and stability. It's called a Joey Lift. And you use it on various vehicles. I haven't tried one yet but I emailed several buyers and all were very happy with the unit. | ||
| Bryce Gaston (Busted_knuckle)
Registered Member Username: Busted_knuckle Post Number: 282 Registered: 1-2006 Posted From: 208.63.188.158 Rating: N/A |
Chris, I have to agree with Chuck! NEVER COVER ANYTHING WITH PAINT YOU LIKE IN TRANSIT! Haul it uncovered, and when you get to your destination use a product I use all the time(have been for 5-6yrs now), and have never had any adverse effects from using it! It is called Spray Power. I get it at Walmart but I know it is also available at Menards and other places as well! I have no affiliation with this company JUST A GREAT PRODUCT! Just spray it on wait a minute and rinse it off! Takes oily film right off! As I said we use it on our charter buses and have been and it has not harmed paint, rubber or anything else! FWIW! BK Here is their toll free # 1-800-827-2346 and web address is www.spraypower.com HTH! | ||
| john w. roan (Chessie4905)
Registered Member Username: Chessie4905 Post Number: 639 Registered: 10-2003 Posted From: 71.58.117.21 Rating: N/A |
If you REALLY want to cover it, you could buy a roll of that Saran wrap type stuff and wrap it like you were going to ship it. It won't flop or rub like about anything else. | ||
| Sean Welsh (Sean)
Registered Member Username: Sean Post Number: 591 Registered: 1-2003 Posted From: 71.129.84.239 Rating: N/A |
Just FYI, there are covers made specifically for in-transit use that will not scuff the paint. They are tight-fitting and padded (neoprene) on the inside. And, of course, the bike needs to be clean first! -Sean http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com |
