| Author |
Message |
Tom Dessert (Mci5er)
Registered Member
Username: Mci5er
Post Number: 88
Registered: 12-2005
Posted From: 75.142.22.177
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, August 29, 2007 - 8:00 pm: | |
Been working on the front of the bus to clean her up for our winter run to the sun (Quartzsite). Over the years past owners have installed various steel screws in areas like the breast plate, trim molding extra. My choice would have been to use stainless whenever possible. MC5's rust up front and mine is no exception, steel screws rust into steel rails and years down the line freaks like me come along with the idea to fix the problem. So how do you remove rusted 1/4-20 steel screws from box channel without damaging the stainless sheet metal. I've tried liquid wrench from the front around the screws heads and opened the dash up and got some on the backside but no luck getting them loose. The straight slot heads are on their last legs. I understand some of these penetrating oils are better than others..... ? I'll try anything at this point. |
Pete/RTS Daytona (Pete_rtsdaytona)
Registered Member
Username: Pete_rtsdaytona
Post Number: 385
Registered: 1-2005
Posted From: 208.118.15.104
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, August 29, 2007 - 8:16 pm: | |
PB Blaster or Kroil
or - My Son's an A&P Mech (all the big stuff / heavy duty depot maintenance shop) - he swears by this stuff - it gets into the smallest openings
http://www.mousemilk.com/index.html
also see--> http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=802140&an=0&page=0#Post80 2140
read about the wax trick ?? |
Laryn Christley (Barn_owl)
Registered Member
Username: Barn_owl
Post Number: 73
Registered: 10-2006
Posted From: 141.152.76.168
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, August 30, 2007 - 12:40 am: | |
I have used all types and I have never had any work the way I would like. When I worked at a machine shop out of high school they had limited success with Marvel’s Mystery Oil. I like using a torch and lots of heat to loosen them or even just cutting the bolts off completely. In your situation that is probably not practical. On my bus I had to carefully drill off the screw heads to get under the trim plate to expose the base of the screw threads on my 4106. |
Jack Conrad (Jackconrad)
Registered Member
Username: Jackconrad
Post Number: 613
Registered: 12-2000
Posted From: 76.1.180.218
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, August 30, 2007 - 9:21 am: | |
I keep a chunk of beeswax in my shop. I have not used it on rusted bolts, but have used it to remove squirrel cage blowers and pulleys. Same technique- heat, apply wax, remove with puller. I do not why it works, put they pull much easier. Jack
PS: I remember my father showing me a trick he learned as a young man from an old carpenter. When installing hardwood floors (they used to nail the flooring with a hammer), drill a hole in the end of the wooden hammer handle and fill with melted beeswax and let hammer set until wax hardened. Stick the nail in the wax before nailing it in the flooring. Easier nailing, less bent nails, and less splitting. |
Arnie Molloy (Ayjay)
Registered Member
Username: Ayjay
Post Number: 83
Registered: 10-2005
Posted From: 68.160.169.86
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, August 30, 2007 - 10:05 am: | |
Hi:
As has been mentioned above "PB Blaster", best I've found in many a year, recently dismantled a 53 MG and was able to remove about 95+% of the screws and bolts used in assembly..way back when....
AyJay |
Richard Bowyer (Drivingmisslazy)
Registered Member
Username: Drivingmisslazy
Post Number: 1978
Registered: 1-2001
Posted From: 75.108.79.214
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, August 30, 2007 - 11:25 am: | |
Beeswax is also great for screws also. I have a round cake in my toolbox that is about half used up with screw thread scrapings all over it.
Richard |
Mel La Plante (Mel_4104)
Registered Member
Username: Mel_4104
Post Number: 46
Registered: 7-2006
Posted From: 207.81.78.121
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, August 30, 2007 - 10:55 pm: | |
if you have a gas welding unit use a real small tipso you can heat the center of the screw or bolt very hot then let cool and you will find that most of them come very easy. also we have a product called INOX and and it is great stuff, |
Gus Causbie (Gusc)
Registered Member
Username: Gusc
Post Number: 474
Registered: 11-2005
Posted From: 63.97.117.48
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, August 30, 2007 - 11:21 pm: | |
I have about the same experience as Laryn, none of these penetrating oils mentioned work very well, at least not as well as I would like. Sometimes I use two or three at the same time. When I get to the screw under the head I use vicegrips to turn it out.
Kroil is no better than the rest and grossly overpriced. Same with Mousemilk. Might as well buy PB Blaster at WM for much less.
I've had some luck with larger bolts by heating and melting a candle onto the threads. The wax goes into the thread gaps and also lubes the thread. This works especially well with lug bolts. |
Laryn Christley (Barn_owl)
Registered Member
Username: Barn_owl
Post Number: 75
Registered: 10-2006
Posted From: 151.199.95.252
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, August 30, 2007 - 11:31 pm: | |
It should also be mentioned to strike the bolt or screw with a sharp striking blow. I have been surprised at how much a little jolt will help loosen things up. |
Luvrbus (Luvrbus)
Registered Member
Username: Luvrbus
Post Number: 104
Registered: 8-2006
Posted From: 74.32.80.38
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, August 31, 2007 - 12:01 am: | |
Tom, do have one of the impact drivers they help |
joe padberg (Joemc7ab)
Registered Member
Username: Joemc7ab
Post Number: 138
Registered: 6-2004
Posted From: 66.38.159.33
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, August 31, 2007 - 12:22 am: | |
TOM
I have had good success with an impact driver.
Joe. |
Tom Dessert (Mci5er)
Registered Member
Username: Mci5er
Post Number: 89
Registered: 12-2005
Posted From: 75.142.22.177
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, August 31, 2007 - 8:18 pm: | |
Thanks all for the advise, I couldn't find any Froil locally, so I went to my local NAPA and the guys there swore up and down on the benefits of this one penetrating oil they sold. $10.50 a 16oz spray can, so I brought it. In hinesight a better investment would have been a twelve pack of Bud. I also tried an impact driver and broke the straight slot tip off of it. Finally, I purhased a 15/64 drill bit, centered myself up on the screws oversized heads and drilled them off very cleanly with no damage to the stainless or channel. I'm in the process of drilling in new holes to tap for the original 1/4-20's. I've purchased new button head stainless screws and will use anti-seize when installing. Now having gotten to the meat and potatoes of where I was going with this project, before this problem. I got a couple of off topic questions to ask on another thread. So thank you all once again. |
Gus Causbie (Gusc)
Registered Member
Username: Gusc
Post Number: 477
Registered: 11-2005
Posted From: 63.97.117.44
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, August 31, 2007 - 8:40 pm: | |
Tom,
I completely forgot to mention left handed drill bits. I have two sets I got from Harbor Freight and they are great. For some reason I can't explain they cut faster than RH drill bits??
The advantage is that sometimes they unscrew the screw while drilling off the head. |
Gary Pasternak (Cessna5354)
Registered Member
Username: Cessna5354
Post Number: 34
Registered: 2-2007
Posted From: 205.188.117.73
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, September 01, 2007 - 11:24 am: | |
Tom,
No new news here. I have a 79 5C Saudi and have looked to replace the front hardware with stainless only to be displeased with all the above mentioned products, with the exception of your 12 pack of Bud. I have found many of the turn signal mounting screws have been redrilled adjacent to a broken off (original) fastener. We do the best we can.
Take care.
GAry |
Patrick levenson (Zubzub)
Registered Member
Username: Zubzub
Post Number: 14
Registered: 5-2007
Posted From: 70.55.152.175
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, September 02, 2007 - 10:52 am: | |
my 2 cents is that the PB blaster etc work best if you spray them on 1 week, then 2 days, then the day of the repair. It takes a long time for the stuff to work it's way in. When I begin planninga dissassembly that is how I start, I get in there and shoot all the bolts/threads I will be releasing.
Of course we don't always have the luxury of time. A really good hand driven impact driver works wonders as well, but distortion of the surrounding surface is possible. All the other posts pretty much covered the variation.
For me the key is never applying stretching tension on the bolt shaft etc...this is what usually causes the shearing, short sharp tugs are less likely to cause breakage. |
Simon Ayriss (Design_dog)
Registered Member
Username: Design_dog
Post Number: 41
Registered: 3-2007
Posted From: 69.227.68.21
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, September 02, 2007 - 2:17 pm: | |
My recent issue is I have been battling getting the screws out to remove my drip rail.
Seems like it would be a piece of cake but not really. Years of paint and being set have made them difficult to remove - AND I don't know how many there are to remove for the entire outside of the bus.
However, just want to point out that after reading this post - In disbelief, from never trying it before...
I simply went out there, Took a propane torch, heated up the screws one at a time, and just melted in some common candle wax, then used a nicely fitting impact driver to give it a good couple of whacks and TO MY SURPRISE! -
IT WORKED.
That combination was enough to get the screws started, then follow up with a good screw bit in a drill. And want to point out before trying I just used the impact driver and lets just say much more difficult.
So not sure of the other solutions... and I just tried candle wax but I am sure bee's wax works 5 times better.
Now all I need to do is 150 more.
Good luck.
There's is my 5 cents of the day. |
Rod Bourland (Roddymc8)
Registered Member
Username: Roddymc8
Post Number: 6
Registered: 8-2007
Posted From: 71.236.217.176
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, September 02, 2007 - 4:27 pm: | |
Iv'e never had any luck using drill easyouts. The best trick I've used is to lay a fender washer over the remaining stud, grab your little wirefeed welder and weld it on. The heat from the welding loosens the bolt and the fender washer gives you the leverage to back it out with your channel locks...works best on 1/4 inch and larger but I've done it with caution on as small as #8. It's a great fix for broken axle bolts! |