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J.Meyers (208.169.40.140)

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Posted on Monday, March 25, 2002 - 11:07 pm:   

I would like to know if anyone has used Reflective Insulation in their bus conversion. This product was recommended to me by a local bus converter. It is an air bubble insulation with aluminum foil on both sides. It is supposed to reflect up to 97% of the heat away from it and has a rating up to R-14. The only draw back is that it is rather expensive per square foot.
Information on this product can be obtained at the following website: http://polyair.com/insulation/flexfoil.htm
I recently purchased some of this type of insulation at a good price and am considering using it in our conversion. One of the reasons I am considering using it is that it is 5/16" thick and can be installed on the ceiling without any loss of head room.
Need input of pros/cons of using this product.

Thanks in advance,
Jeff
Doug (Toolman) (65.169.120.209)

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Posted on Monday, March 25, 2002 - 11:20 pm:   

Jeff,

I'm using it in our RTS... I've used it in many construction projects including new homes. I have two 125' rolls in the shop ready for installation!!

Good luck!
Toolman
OAE Palmer (208.164.96.120)

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Posted on Tuesday, March 26, 2002 - 12:06 am:   

Jeff..
I also have purchased several rolls based on the results I saw occurr in a Chevy van used for day fishin in AZ.
I used it double layer on a cargo door in a moving van that was insulated with success.

I have never revealed my plan for insulation, because it seems radical for one.

My 4106 is down to coated metal inside, as soon as I can raise the roof 15 inches I will start the insulation process.

Layer 1...a 3-layer composite of poly-alum-poly, this material is seen in moisture proof ocean container shipping, it is heat sealable and is not only moisture proof it is reflective.
It will provide the "outside" skin and has a service life of at least 15 years due to lack of UV exposure. This material will last 5 yrs in complete exposure to AZ weather and still retain most of its integrity.

Layer 2 ...the mylar bubble shield that you mentioned in a single layer, to protect the next layer from heat degradation.

Layer 3 ..a rigid foam substantially more dense that that which comes from an aerosol can at Home Despot....dense enough that you CANNOT push your index finger deeper than 3/8th of an inch.
2 inches of foam with bring me out and even with the dense foam plastic furring strips (which will not transfer condesating cold temps).

The final touch is another application of the 3-part film in layer-1 to keep interior moisture from degrading the insulation package, all seams taped.

I happen to have access to a product which is comprised of end cut balsa wood sandwiched between fibreglass sheets... this mater is 1/2 in. thick and comes in std 48x96 sheets.
The insulating, soundproofing and rigidity of this product is unequaled and it is as light as a feather.
I will use this as wallboard throughout until it comes to the overhead curves.

Here once again I will use a product not available generally.
I will be laying up a pvc foam material called Sintra which is a sign material and will "face" it with a clear knot-free 1/16th in. plywood which bends like grass in the wind and is as tuff and pretty as you can hope for.

The final insulation package should only be about 1/2 inch lower than the raw ribs, and we should be able to heat it with the morning coffee brewing and showers...

The rated R value of the mylar-bubble pack is a load of hype at 15, maybe in direct sunlight BUT not when you are talking -20 deg temp infiltration.

Having form and polyfoam or Reflective bubble insulated windshield and window coverings will do more for less than anything else....GLASS is the devil when it comes to heat gain or loss in a coach.

Just a FWIW from my perspective
Scott Whitney (24.205.239.4)

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Posted on Tuesday, March 26, 2002 - 3:24 am:   

Hi OAE,

You said. "My 4106 is down to coated metal inside, as soon as I can raise the roof 15 inches I will start the insulation process."

Wow, interesting! Maybe this is a topic for another thread, but could you elaborate on this intended procedure? Or have you posted your process somewhere else so I could read about it?

I don't have a 4106, but would find this very interesting anyway.

Thanks,
Scott
Don KS/TX (205.187.92.4)

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Posted on Tuesday, March 26, 2002 - 5:27 am:   

R-14 in 5/16th of an inch? This is REALLY going to revolutionize building. I did not find that on the web site, where did you find the R value of this product?
GeorgeMyers (12.85.14.176)

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Posted on Tuesday, March 26, 2002 - 9:26 pm:   

I didn't check the web site, but there is a long tradition of the "Bubble-pack" insulations folks advertising the R-Value of the wall with their insulation in it, not the insulation itself. The actual value is around 3, as best as I can determine. Three layers are about an inch thick, which is the standard thickness for measuring R-Values to compare insulations. This makes an R-9, which is not bad, and right in there with the foams. The real beauty of the product is that it is easy to put into a curved area.

In general, the polyisocyanurate (probably mis spelled) sheets (tan stuff with foil on each side) are less expensive for flat, or slightly curved walls.

George Myers
John G Root Jr (Johnroot) (140.186.114.253)

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Posted on Tuesday, March 26, 2002 - 10:52 pm:   

What I was told about the polyair (reflective bubble pack reflective 5/16") thick is that the reflective surfaces and a dead airspace (foam) at least 3/4 of an inch on either side gives a R value of 15. As explained to me the foam doesn't reflect back enough radiant heat, it only stops convection and conduction. So a dead airspace and reflection give a high R value. Not 5/16" = R 15
HTH
John
J.Meyers (208.169.40.194)

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Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2002 - 2:43 am:   

Don,
If you go to the web site I mentioned and click on insulation basics, then scroll down to reflective insulation it will show you the r-value for different applications.

Jeff
Doug (Toolman) (65.161.50.161)

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Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2002 - 5:02 pm:   

John,
Your info seems to jive with what I was told by the rep from a TVM distributor close by. One of the things that sold me was an Italian Deli just down the road from our home built a larger walkin cooler, about double the size of their old one. They insulated it with nothing but the bubble/foil products and use the same cooling unit as they had before. The owner said they had trouble cooling on hot days before and now things are working great.

Here's the website for the product's that I use:
http://www.tvmi.com/index.html

Toolman
J. Meyers (208.235.33.205)

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Posted on Thursday, March 28, 2002 - 11:36 pm:   

Hi OAE
I found your post on your insulation system very interesting. I have a question about the product you are going to use in layer one of your insulation package. This sounds like the product on the following web site, http://polyair.com/insulation/flexotherm.htm .
Could you confirm if this product is simular to the one you are using?
Thanks to all who responded, with lots of good information as usual.
Sorry about the late post to this thread, but right after my last post our computer crashed and burned. I am only here now because I am using my daughter's computer.
So I will be off line and unable to respond for a while until we get our !#$%^&* computer fixed.
Jeff
Philip Curtis (205.188.199.32)

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Posted on Friday, March 29, 2002 - 9:45 am:   

I used the bubble on my MCI5 and am very happy with the end results.Went a little crazy on the roof after the bubbel I put up the 3/8th plywood them over layerd that with 1/4 in reflective card board.Just make sure you seal every seam good and take your time to fit the pieces.The R value is 10.5 and you can really tell the diffrence on a hot or cold day.
OAE Palmer (208.164.96.207)

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Posted on Friday, March 29, 2002 - 3:39 pm:   

I am sure that what I am familar with and what you are using are in fact one and the same...
I will grab a wrapper off the roll and get back with you tonight.
I have used this product to protect cameras from direct sun and the associated heat as well as a packing material for objects that would travel cross-country buy truck in the summer, and were sensitive to heat.
I swear by the stuff.
CoryDane- (4.17.253.135)

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Posted on Saturday, March 30, 2002 - 10:38 pm:   

Check this site out
http://www.ncfi.com/insulation/hotbox.htm
Now the bubble pack type of insul is #1 example.
If I am looking at this correctly, it leaks temperature through. It is certainly not the worst, merely not the best. I may be interprteting this wrong so I left the link so you all can take a lookie and see also. Hope this helps someone. cd
OAE Palmer (208.164.102.77)

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Posted on Wednesday, April 03, 2002 - 4:34 am:   

The product I have is called REFLECTIX...and the R-number claims are the same ....15
Peter Broadribb (Madbrit) (216.67.211.251)

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Posted on Thursday, April 04, 2002 - 5:08 am:   

According to the test on the "ncfi" website:

1. Radiant Barrier: 5/16" reflective radiant barrier consisting of two layers of "bubblepack" laminated between two layers of aluminum foil. R-9.8
(including the effects of 3/4" interior and exterior plywood, 2x6 studs on 16" centers, and all air spaces within the assembly.)

Unfortunately I don't have 6" walls in my bus to gain the neccessary air gap to gain the R-9.8.

I found a website on specialist home construction which rated the following, however, I still cannot see how the bubble wrap will give R.15 when trapped in a wall. I feel that most of its properties are in its reflective abilities such as Kool-Seal type roof treatments, otherwise we would all be using huge 6" thick bubble wrap in home insulation.

Quote:
The compound insulation consist of Reflectix reflective bubble
insulation combined with Cellutex board insulation installed between the
framing and the sheathing. The Reflectix has an R-15 in the summertime down
direction and the 3/4" Cellutex has an R-8 value when properly installed.

I am going to stick with either spray foam or most probably the Black Cellutex foam board, which according to the above website, will give me R-18 at 1.5", I installed the Cellutex in addition to blown-in fiber insulation in my house in the Arizona desert and it works great and that's good enough for me.

Madbrit.
John Biundo (Jbiundo) (64.175.37.171)

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Posted on Saturday, April 06, 2002 - 1:08 am:   

Peter,

Please post the web site. Sounds useful!

Thanks,
John
Peter Broadribb (Madbrit) (216.67.212.56)

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Posted on Saturday, April 06, 2002 - 1:32 am:   

John,

this is where I found the "R-23" reference:

http://reality.sculptors.com/~hyprmail/domesteading/2074.html

Then a couple of paragraphs there is a "click" on the further reference:

http://www.hometown.aol.com/dometruss

Peter.
Don Hughes (209.36.53.212)

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Posted on Wednesday, June 12, 2002 - 5:31 pm:   

In locations posting over 100 degrees, I use the bubble pack insulation in many of my windows to help the load on the AC and it makes an appreciable difference.

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