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KeithKroeker (65.33.34.54)

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Posted on Wednesday, April 17, 2002 - 2:44 am:   

I just found a 76 GMC 4905 in what I believe to be very good condition. I'm looking to convert at first as inexpensively as possible. I have been doing alot of research on the internet and thank everyone of you who posts their projects.

Question... everyone seems to remove the bus AC and existing paneled walls. The coach I found has cold air and the paneling is in excellent condition. I've decided to leave the coach windows (already tinted anyways) and the paneling is in great condition. Why does everyone strip them completely and use 3/4" plywood after insulating. I believe these coaches already have some insulation dont they?

Second question... The coach air seems to work well, while roof air is a must for parked times, wouldnt the coach air while driving eliminate the need to run the generator constantly and give the roof air's a rest.... Everyone seems to remove the existing air? pros and cons?

Thanks in advance,

Keith
FAST FRED (209.26.87.48)

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Posted on Wednesday, April 17, 2002 - 5:19 am:   

Folks remove the stock interior walls so its easier to hang house like stuff , and it makes the coach look more like a RV than a coach.

Cretainly NOT my style, but its done .

The stock insulation is Fiber glass , so folks dream of having a better insulated coach by blowing in foam. AS the walls are only 1 1/2 thick or so any change is marginal at best.

Others hope to remove loads of doubble skin and dream of re gaining structural streignth with sprayed foam.

" Stops a real wiggle walls " from needing structural help.

If you enjoy the clean bus like interior and the ease with which it can be cleaned , there is really NO reason to make an immywinny interior.

Its all taste , do it Yout Way.

Most of a coach heat loss is thru the windows , most of the heat gain from a non white roof.

For RV use +20 to 110 in the shade , the stock insulation works just fine.
Should you decide on a black roof in Texas , or a winter in AK you might think of an up grade , like insulated window shades , or a second roof.

The bus air is a different concern, Hound records show over half the maint cost was air cond.

That was when freon was 30c a pound and a good unit only lost a few pounds a week.

Today , unless you switch to the Propane style refrigerant ( still only a buck or two a gallon) the cost of servicing the unit will be HUGE.

You might plan your conversion with out coach air , and when ever the maint time & costs get too high , then rip it out..

It takes a load of space that can be used better.


Welcome to a great hobby.

FAST FRED
Scott Whitney (24.205.239.4)

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Posted on Wednesday, April 17, 2002 - 12:54 pm:   

Just to give you a different perspective on the insulation and wall thing. I took out all my walls, floor, ceiling and fiberglass insul. It was nasty old stuff and I am glad it is gone. I am using fresh block foam and new wood in its place. Also having access to the insides of walls makes doing the conversion much easier for installing skylights, water heater, fridge and anything else that protrudes thru the bus walls/ceiling. I really like to have fresh new wood on the walls. Makes building counters and other items much easier cause you can glue and screw to a nice piece of wood. I am not using 3/4 inch for walls though. 3/8 is what I am using. Ceiling is undecided at this time. Floor is 3/4 ply plus 1" insul. plus 1/2" ply. I am reskinning my windows and replacing with RV style.

Scott
DaveD (216.18.113.69)

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Posted on Wednesday, April 17, 2002 - 6:28 pm:   

I have retained the coach heating and ac system complete with the existing ductwork. Other than in the side aisle area from the bath to the bedroom, the ducts will not be all that obvious as they will be covered by base cabinets and furniture. I've kept this because the system is quite effecive and I will be spending more time on the road in cold climates heading to warmer locations than actually camped where it is cold.

DaveD
Tom Caffrey (Pvcces) (12.146.33.9)

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Posted on Wednesday, April 17, 2002 - 10:14 pm:   

Having some of that high powered heating is kind of nice when you're on the road and it gets cold outside.

We've managed a partial restoration of the original coach heat and we make use of it because most of our trips are not in the summer and we live in Alaska.

Maybe "because" we live in Alaska.

Before we did the heat restoration, we were running the furnace to keep warm going down the road; when it got down to freezing in the Siskiyous, for example, the furnace really wasn't enough.

FWIW

Tom Caffrey PD4106-2576
Keith Kroeker (65.33.34.54)

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Posted on Friday, April 19, 2002 - 1:46 am:   

Thanks to all for the replies.. I live in Florida, so except for the occasional trip to the big bumps in North Carloina and such, cold wont really be a problem, cooling the bus is much more of a concern for me. I'dlive to move to the snow, but AK is toooooo coooollllldddddd. :-)
David Pinson (204.255.95.60)

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Posted on Friday, April 19, 2002 - 10:31 am:   

About heating the conversion in cold temps....I bought 4 small Pelonis ceramic heaters for my all-electric coach.....On the coldest days of the winter....3 of the heaters afforded a very comfortable atmosphere.....the heat is clean..no fumes..no exhaust needed....it is a good way to heat and I dont see much discussion about ceramic heaters in bus conversions....wonder why?
Scott Whitney (24.205.239.4)

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Posted on Friday, April 19, 2002 - 3:05 pm:   

I've got a Platimum Cat heater that is partially installed in my bedroom. It is vented so no need to crack windows etc. Also has a thermostat, so you can set it and go to bed. Very efficient way to heat. I look forward to trying it out!

BTW, the company is out of business. :^( I got mine used.

Scott
Jim Nelson (166.90.111.60)

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Posted on Saturday, April 20, 2002 - 12:40 pm:   

The coach heat, however, can be a great benefit in colder areas. The heating system is not that expensive, and pumps out huge amounts of heat - however, you will need to do regular maintenance on the blower motor - motor brushes every 6-9 months is what the hound does.
Mark Radius (216.202.132.34)

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Posted on Monday, April 22, 2002 - 8:13 pm:   

One thing about fiberglass insulation - if it gets wet somehow (either a leak or condensation) it will stay wet... forever!!! And wet insulation is a quickest way I know of to get a bad case of "busrot" (read HIDDEN RUST). Unfortunately, I can say "been there, done that." And the plastic wrapped fiberglass in MCI's - no help. That plastic becomes brittle and breaks open after only a few years.

FWIW... MR

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