Author |
Message |
Al Locke (Al4627)
Registered Member Username: Al4627
Post Number: 9 Registered: 4-2008 Posted From: 71.48.173.61
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, January 25, 2009 - 8:25 am: | |
I am installing the IBP LED taillight conversion on my MC9. The one piece panel wraps from the engine door around to the access door/doors. I started from the engine door end to get proper spacing in order for the engine door to open without interference from the panel. After doing this, the panel on the other end hangs past the framework of the access door by about 1/4". No big deal, except the locking mechanism on the door will not clear the hangover. Finally, I will get to my question. What is the best way to trim that excess off the stainless panel? Because it is in an opening, it needs to be smooth (and straight). Is this something a nibbler can do or? This a corrugated (hope that is right term) panel. |
Nick Badame Refrigeration Co. (Dnick85)
Registered Member Username: Dnick85
Post Number: 263 Registered: 2-2006 Posted From: 75.199.46.229
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, January 25, 2009 - 9:04 am: | |
Hi Al, You have 2 options here. 1- It could be that the center of the new panel needs to be shimmed out to bring the overhang back where it should be. 2- you can trim the stainless with a 4" cutting wheel attached to a grinder, or unattach that end and use a sheer. Good Luck Nick- |
Al Locke (Al4627)
Registered Member Username: Al4627
Post Number: 10 Registered: 4-2008 Posted From: 71.48.173.61
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, January 25, 2009 - 9:50 am: | |
Thanks, Nick. Would the shear not crush down the corrugated high of the panel? Al |
Bill Gerrie (Bill_gerrie)
Registered Member Username: Bill_gerrie
Post Number: 221 Registered: 3-2006 Posted From: 216.198.139.38
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, January 25, 2009 - 10:19 am: | |
Al I would use a very thin cut off wheel (1/16") in a hand grinder with angle iron clamped to the stainless steel as a guide. Go slow as not to create a lot of heat and blue the stainless. This works well and should need very little touchup if you take your time. Bill |
Buswarrior (Buswarrior)
Registered Member Username: Buswarrior
Post Number: 1488 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 76.68.123.60
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, January 25, 2009 - 10:27 am: | |
For a 1/4 inch, I'd try really hard to get it pushed back and accomodate it out on the curve. Only because I make a mess of things that I try to cut!!! It may be the panel had "flattened" just a little? Is the surface the tailights are on flat, in relation to the square, or does the panel start drifting towards the front in a curve? Of course, you don't want the tailights pointing inward, but you don't want them pointing outward either. let us know! happy coaching! buswarrior |
Al Locke (Al4627)
Registered Member Username: Al4627
Post Number: 11 Registered: 4-2008 Posted From: 71.48.173.61
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, January 25, 2009 - 2:41 pm: | |
I like the idea of using the angle for a guide. I really only need to relieve the place for the access door latch mechanism. The access door can close over the overhang without any issues....the latch will still work. Thanks for all the replies, Guys! |