| Author | Message | ||
| Chuck Newman (Chuck_newman)
Registered Member Username: Chuck_newman Post Number: 294 Registered: 1-2005 Posted From: 76.246.254.144 Rating: N/A |
I have a crack in the front cap that starts at the corner of a clearance light and runs up the curve and onto the roof -- total length about 10 inches as seen from top. You can see some damage from the underside (destination sign has been removed) for about 2 to 3 inches starting at the light socket corner. I have a leak within about an inch of the light, almost in the bend to the roof. I tried some elastometric roof compound that worked about a year. Not sure of it's quality. Leak has returned. Is it time to start studying catalyzed resin application techniques, or do I have other alternatives to try before that phase. I hesitate to use flexible silicone rubber because I would like to paint the roof at some point. Is there a SikaFlex model that remains flexible (like silicone) after it cures? Would you recommend it? Or is there a better way to go at this point? Also, should I drill a small hole at the upper end of the stress crack? And should I cover the entire length of the "spider" crack or just the point that leaks. Thanks. | ||
| John MC9 (John_mc9)
Registered Member Username: John_mc9 Post Number: 793 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 68.18.13.42  Rating: N/A |
Chuck - Re: "should I drill a small hole at the upper end of the stress crack? " Yeah. That will stop the crack, just as it does with glass. My front cap on the MC9 was fiberglass, and I used fiberglass fill, to fix the crack at about the same spot as yours. I used the Dremel, and routed a groove the length of the crack, and put a hole at the end of the crack. I used the fiberglass resin and filled it, and sanded it once it was dry. It didn't leak there anymore, but the damned marker light did. And the frikkin windshield gasket leaked as well. I always wondered, if just duct-taping sponges to the leaking areas might be money better spent.... I mean, after all.... It's an MCI... Or..... just don't take it out in the rain? | ||
| Paul Lawry (Dreamscape)
Registered Member Username: Dreamscape Post Number: 436 Registered: 5-2007 Posted From: 75.93.55.100  Rating: N/A |
I had a similar situation in our front cap. I gouged the crack with a grinder and used Duraglass to fill it. It's similar to Bondo only has fiberglass strands in it. You can get it at most any body/paint store. | ||
| FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
Registered Member Username: Fast_fred Post Number: 677 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 66.82.9.57 Rating: N/A |
Filling the crack will NOT be enough if the stresses that caused the crack still tears at it. It will be stronger with a good grind , down to the glass , and a fiber glass tape in layers installed in epoxy. West system has a new more flexible resin system that may work. FF | ||
| Chuck Newman (Chuck_newman)
Registered Member Username: Chuck_newman Post Number: 295 Registered: 1-2005 Posted From: 76.193.77.239 Rating: N/A |
Thank you for the ideas. John, my windshield gaskets show some leakage at the bottom. I was going to have them replaced. In so doing, will they have to replace both windshields? Also, will they have to replace the lexan sign window, or will it survive the removal process? | ||
| John MC9 (John_mc9)
Registered Member Username: John_mc9 Post Number: 795 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 74.162.76.3 Rating: N/A |
I think they all leak, Chuck! When I broke the passenger side windshield taking out the stupid sign (^%$^%@* sign), they replaced the gasket, but only because they tore the old gasket. The new gasket leaked like a sieve. I hated driving in the rain... Then, the new gasket shrank in the heat down here, and there was a gap at the top left corner of the gasket. Bees were coming in through it at the storage facility. The old gasket was OK, but leaked at the top anyway. Most of the bus leaks will be at the front, through the marker lights, and rusting out the top of the windshield. The other gasket leaks will cause the bottom of the windshield area to get rusted, especially at the door opener, right between the windshields. The windshields can break easy when you take them out, and I wouldn't do it, unless I have a new windshield waiting to go in. But will it solve the leaks? Very doubtful, Chuck. The bus garage charged me $150 for the windshield, installed. (Oh, and $40 for the gasket, to replace the one they tore) | ||
| Chuck Newman (Chuck_newman)
Registered Member Username: Chuck_newman Post Number: 297 Registered: 1-2005 Posted From: 76.193.77.239 Rating: N/A |
Well, since my gasket only shows a little moisture at the bottom when it rains, based on your input I think I will leave it alone unless it gets worse over time, or I have to replace windshields. I appreciate your insight, John. | ||
| John MC9 (John_mc9)
Registered Member Username: John_mc9 Post Number: 796 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 74.162.73.87 Rating: N/A |
I'm from the "if it ain't broke; don't fix it" school, Chuck. And for me, it's gotta' be real, real broke. Seriously... The new gaskets are a little wider than the old ones, and on mine, it was real noticeable, The guy that bought my bus, saw it right off; it was that noticeable! I stuck kleenex inside, on the top over the windows, to try to identify where the leak was. Most of the leaks were coming in from around the marker lights, dripping inside the cavity, and down around the windshield. The water was also entering from the screws that held the rain gutter to the roof! I removed the gutter, put butyl under the gutter and in the screw holes, and put it back together. I did the same for the marker lights. Bingo! Dry! After the new windshield went in, with that new gasket, was when the water problem returned... But it was fairly easy to see where the water was entering! Lotsa' luck! Oh yeah.... I stuffed some butyl under the gaskets too! (forgot about that!) (Message edited by john_mc9 on February 04, 2009) |