| Author | Message | ||
| Dustin Bringham (Dmbringham)
Registered Member Username: Dmbringham Post Number: 7 Registered: 2-2009 Posted From: 98.162.238.75 Rating: N/A |
OK so I have the bus gutted from front to back including the restroom in the rear. I removed the linoleum down to the original wood floors to check for anything that may have rotted; every thing looked great according to the writing on the wood it was replaced in 2001. I went a head and put "Fatmat" over the existing floor, and then 1/4" OSB over the top of that just as an extra sound barrier, and it made a huge difference in motor & generator noise. I am ready to start the building process, and I’m going to start in the rear of the bus, and work my way forward. My question is; as I am building, and get ready to put my walls up (I will be using plywood, and then having them covered in a veneer) how do I attach the wall to the ceiling of the bus to make it stable? | ||
| Dan West (Utahclaimjumper)
Registered Member Username: Utahclaimjumper Post Number: 156 Registered: 1-2005 Posted From: 208.66.38.60 Rating: N/A |
That question begs another question, what bus do you have??>>>Dan | ||
| Dustin Bringham (Dmbringham)
Registered Member Username: Dmbringham Post Number: 8 Registered: 2-2009 Posted From: 166.132.45.115 Rating: N/A |
MC-8 | ||
| Buswarrior (Buswarrior)
Registered Member Username: Buswarrior Post Number: 1518 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 76.68.134.14  Rating: N/A |
Did you leave access in the floor to get to the engine? You need both the one in the floor and the one on the rear seat for maintenance access. happy coaching! buswarrior | ||
| Dustin Bringham (Dmbringham)
Registered Member Username: Dmbringham Post Number: 9 Registered: 2-2009 Posted From: 98.162.238.75 Rating: N/A |
Yes we built hidden doors for them. | ||
| John MC9 (John_mc9)
Registered Member Username: John_mc9 Post Number: 839 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 74.162.82.11  Rating: N/A |
Re: "how do I attach the wall to the ceiling of the bus to make it stable?" What's on the walls now? You would attach the wall material to the wall of the bus, and it should be cut to meet the ceiling material at the top. Some/any sort of trim can be used to join the two surfaces neatly, but there isn't any need to actually connect the two. | ||
| Ednj (Ednj)
Registered Member Username: Ednj Post Number: 242 Registered: 3-2003 Posted From: 68.197.95.38  Rating: |
Dustin, Find yourself a Kreg tool kit. Before the Kreg I would cut a piece of aluminum about 2”x4”, screw it to the top of the wall material (picture a big tee) now you have a flange on both sides of the wall to attach to the ceiling. | ||
| Dustin Bringham (Dmbringham)
Registered Member Username: Dmbringham Post Number: 10 Registered: 2-2009 Posted From: 98.162.238.75 Rating: N/A |
So when I am making the walls between the front, and the bunk room I really don’t need to attach to the ceiling? These will also be the walls that enclose the bunks on each end. I thought o | ||
| R.C.Bishop (Chuckllb)
Registered Member Username: Chuckllb Post Number: 564 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 75.210.152.24 Rating: N/A |
My MO(method of operation) has always been the KISS principle. Draw it out, get one's head on straight, think about it, know exactly where you want to end up then construct according to your plan. Now to be sure, that is not much said as to "how"...but ...there are a lot of ideas out there and if it were me, I would begin with the Archives...then read articles, see what others (many) have done. Lots'a variables enter in that makes it, at best, questionable as to which is right for a given situation. For me, simple was to line the sidewalls with 1/2 inch plywood (as described above in a post) cover with veneer and install walls and cabinets,etc to the siding...then anchored to a cross rib of the coach, at the top. (after the ceiling had been installed)...Good, solid! As our Poster Emeritus says...."do it your way". (FF) BTW, he has shared a bunch over the years, along with many others that might be very helpful. It certainly was to me. And ask questions!! Lots of great "experience" on this great forum (Thanx, Ian)...some practical, some theoretical, but...EXPERIENCE....(right Gomer?  ) FWIW RCB | ||
| L James Jones Jr (Jamo)
Registered Member Username: Jamo Post Number: 54 Registered: 11-2007 Posted From: 24.59.114.248 Rating: N/A |
You've got me wondering about the 1/4" OSB flooring. I'm not sure what the "fatmat" is, but if it flexes & you have OSB over that, then the OSB will not last long. Get it wet & it won't last the week. I do hope I misread something there (I did read it several times) and hope you're not using OSB for a floor (or subfloor). Just my $.02... | ||
| marvin pack (Gomer)
Registered Member Username: Gomer Post Number: 423 Registered: 3-2007 Posted From: 71.55.179.179  Rating: N/A |
Right On RC. No question is stupid and it can be resolved on this board. RIGHT ON Gomer | ||
| R.C.Bishop (Chuckllb)
Registered Member Username: Chuckllb Post Number: 566 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 75.210.152.24 Rating: N/A |
Agreed, Jamo...emphatically!! RCB | ||
| Rob King (Skykingrob)
Registered Member Username: Skykingrob Post Number: 32 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 72.161.12.173 Rating: N/A |
Dustin I decided before any walls were put into place, the height of the ceiling. I welded ceiling angle from one side of the bus to the other every two feet front to back. Then along a line from the front of the bus to the back, I fastened a 4" wide, 3/4" thick strip of wood that ended up recessed into the top of the wall. Using the afore mentioned kreg jig, I drilled pockets in the top of the wall and put screws up throught the pockets in the top of the wall into the strip fastened to the ceiling angles. Now on the wall side of the wall set to go against the wall of the bus, I put a 1" wide, 3/4" think strip of wood from the top of the bus wall to the bottom of the bus wall. I fastened the wall to this strip with air staples. Along the bottom of the wall, I used the kreg jig to make pockets and fastened the wall to the floor through the pockets. That way you have your wall fastened along the floor of the bus, the wall of the bus and to the ceiling of the bus at the front of the cabinet. Once you come back and put a front rail and style on the wall, the top strip is covered up. Good Luck to you, hope this helps Rob 91 LeMirage XL Missouri | ||
| R.C.Bishop (Chuckllb)
Registered Member Username: Chuckllb Post Number: 567 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 75.210.152.24 Rating: N/A |
BTW...fastening to the floor is implied...and necessary! RCB | ||
| Rob Pacella (Rap16823)
Registered Member Username: Rap16823 Post Number: 10 Registered: 8-2007 Posted From: 12.177.54.235 Rating: N/A |
What is Fatmat? What will make the best floor in my bus. | ||
| Dustin Bringham (Dmbringham)
Registered Member Username: Dmbringham Post Number: 11 Registered: 2-2009 Posted From: 98.162.238.75 Rating: N/A |
Here is a link to what I used on the floor. It is made to eliminate road noise, and it works great! www.fatmat.com/liners/floor%20liner.htm | ||
| R.C.Bishop (Chuckllb)
Registered Member Username: Chuckllb Post Number: 569 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 75.209.150.9 Rating: N/A |
Product looks impressive and if it works as claimed. Would be great for some of the governments stimulus projects. That money could be used up in a hurry. No criticism here, Dustin, but 300 square feet +- of floor space, it is roughly 35 pieces (as advertised) for +- $68 per sheet....kinda pricey for floor underlayment at least in my thinking. Think I'll put up with a bit of noise coming thru the cork floor. Now if some one could figure a way to soundproof glassed areas it would be almost eerie drivin' down the road... But then, what ever turns one on...as FF says,"do it your way"> RCB | ||
| John MC9 (John_mc9)
Registered Member Username: John_mc9 Post Number: 841 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 74.162.93.212 Rating: N/A |
Dustin - Oh wait... you asked: "how do I attach the wall to the ceiling" but you meant: "how do I attach the partitions to the ceiling"..... (You still didn't say if the original wall and ceiling panels were left as-is) Aluminum 1" angle (L) stock (or wood 1x2's, if space permits) can be anchored to the ceiling, and the partition anchored to that. (I used polyurethane glue also, to give some extra support against side movement when I rebuilt our commercially built MH) The commercial motorhome builders use that method. If you peek inside the cabinets of a new 1,000,000 rig, you'll find the same thing. (Message edited by john_mc9 on March 21, 2009) | ||
| Jack Hart (Jackhartjr)
Registered Member Username: Jackhartjr Post Number: 45 Registered: 8-2007 Posted From: 205.188.116.203 Rating: N/A |
Dustin, I am in the early stages of converting one too. The best advice I have seen is to build everything in the bus first out of cardboard to see if it and you fit! For example you may say I want to build the beds so so big, if you use those measurements and make them with cardboard you will know for sure if they will indeed work. Jack | ||
| R.C.Bishop (Chuckllb)
Registered Member Username: Chuckllb Post Number: 571 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 75.209.150.9 Rating: N/A |
And, Jack....if one has pretty good perception...one can "tape" it on the floor and still get a very good idea of what might be....that's what we did. RCB | ||
| Dustin Bringham (Dmbringham)
Registered Member Username: Dmbringham Post Number: 12 Registered: 2-2009 Posted From: 98.162.238.75 Rating: N/A |
I'm doing both the floor tape, and the cardboard method. The Fat-Mat is expensive, I didn't pay that much for mine (not even close); I have a friend that can get it a lot less expensive through his stereo installation shop, but I will say hearing the difference in the motor, and diesel generator it would be worth doing it at least over the motor at any cost (it’s drastically more quite). When I said "walls" I was referring to partitions; I did leave the original side walls, and ceiling in the bus, as I plan on having them upholstered later on. I am going up with the first set either Sunday or Monday so we will see how it goes. | ||
| Douglas Tappan (Dougthebonifiedbusnut)
Registered Member Username: Dougthebonifiedbusnut Post Number: 84 Registered: 10-2004 Posted From: 75.69.223.64  Rating: N/A |
What is a Kreg jig? | ||
| Jack Conrad (Jackconrad)
Registered Member Username: Jackconrad Post Number: 994 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 71.54.29.215  Rating: N/A |
A Kreg Jig is a tool to drill the hole for "pocket" screws to connect boards together. Jack | ||
| Dustin Bringham (Dmbringham)
Registered Member Username: Dmbringham Post Number: 13 Registered: 2-2009 Posted From: 98.162.238.75 Rating: N/A |
Jack- I purchased a Kreg Kit, works great! Thanks for the advice!!! |
