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Moti Nowrangi (Mnowrangi)
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Username: Mnowrangi

Post Number: 17
Registered: 2-2009
Posted From: 96.255.83.117

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Posted on Thursday, March 26, 2009 - 12:07 pm:   

What is the general rule of thumb here - to close or open the Hot Water Valve. (The Hot Water Valve on this particular coach is located passenger side rear/side compartment door).

When running A/C with the switch in ON position

When running HEAT with the switch in the ON position
Grant Thiessen (Busshawg)
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Username: Busshawg

Post Number: 122
Registered: 10-2007
Posted From: 206.45.93.160


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Posted on Thursday, March 26, 2009 - 5:17 pm:   

Your talking about the engine anti-freeze valves?
I believe there should be 2 valves, one like you mentioned and the other should be near the middle of the coach on top of the transmission. It is hard to reach from the rear driver's side engine door but it can be done. If you look down from the access door from inside your coach it should be right there. Follow your coolant line from the back to the front on the drivers side and you will see it. I have mine closed in the summer, open when I require inside heat.
John MC9 (John_mc9)
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Username: John_mc9

Post Number: 845
Registered: 7-2006
Posted From: 98.70.64.230


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Posted on Thursday, March 26, 2009 - 6:36 pm:   

Hey Moti ?

How about just posting one thread, and asking ALL the questions
on that same thread? You've got the same question going on
four different threads, and the entire "help project" has become
a total redundancy.
Tony LEE (T_lee)
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Username: T_lee

Post Number: 48
Registered: 11-2007
Posted From: 195.23.214.142

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Posted on Saturday, March 28, 2009 - 11:25 am:   

The MC8 uses hot water to do the temperature control in both summer and winter. If you turn it off in summer and your AC is working well, you may end up too cold.If that is the case then you can try opening the valves a turn or so to provide some control.
Tony LEE (T_lee)
Registered Member
Username: T_lee

Post Number: 49
Registered: 11-2007
Posted From: 195.23.214.142

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Posted on Saturday, March 28, 2009 - 11:27 am:   

"How about just posting one thread, and asking ALL the questions on that same thread?"

Don't agree. One topic per thread gets the best answers.
Clint Hunter (Truthhunter)
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Username: Truthhunter

Post Number: 90
Registered: 1-2009
Posted From: 24.129.235.190


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Posted on Saturday, March 28, 2009 - 12:07 pm:   

If it is hot inside and the A/C is malfunctioning you can always shut one or both heater valves in the main line ; on my 1975 MC 8 there are two 15" round plates that can be removed to allow the system to draw extra fresh air into bus and get to a repair stop. They are located in the forward bay on the forward bulkhead (which is the bulkhead for the HVAC cores,ductwork and blower 2 speed motor.
Good luck trying to make a buck with a old coach on charter, if your having to hire a shop to make & keep it dependable Mott! Your best chance is to get educated and repair equipped real quick while your working capital and client list still exist. Safe busing is the bottom line!
Clint Hunter (Truthhunter)
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Username: Truthhunter

Post Number: 91
Registered: 1-2009
Posted From: 24.129.235.190


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Posted on Saturday, March 28, 2009 - 12:45 pm:   

...just to be more specific , the proper procedure is to use the two small controls at in the driver area, 1. the small numbered nob by the side switches (which you have reported using ) controls the HVAC system valve the automatically controls the coolant flow to the main heater core (located in the forward baggage bay on the ceiling in from the right first baggage door, 2. the manual valve located just in back of your left foot near the floor manually operates the coolant flow to front heater core. Your front heater core (windshield & driver heater defroster core) has a bleed valve located behind the filter. The previous post (the two hand valves and the two round emergency air intakes) is for emergencies , and need not be used in a properly functioning system.

Your coolant reservoir tank is to be filled until you see coolant in that sight glass (often dirty and hard to see) located behind and above the drive pulley on the engine blowers, they did have a pull cord and spiter valve when new, to tell you when full, but it is not likely to be working or intact 35 years later. If you have a leak , you best find it and fix. If it is inside the engine (head gaskets or cracks, overheating) it could cause very expensive engine damage when it gets bigger, not just the cost of coolant loses.
Your system likely had the low coolant detector and if it is still in tact, it will shut down the engine when triggered and turn on the idiot light/buzzer on the dash that says low coolant. This detector (float switch and circuits) is located in the same big oval coolant reservoir tank as the sight glass.
So get your manuals , study them and then you will be better prepared for when shit does happen, next best thing to prevention, which is the first objective. A complete shop PM inspection that actual check all the systems would cost thousands and take many hours to undertake, and the bill to refurbish all the faults that turned up as needing attention would cost many many more thousands to undertake. That is one of the reasons these old coaches get retired and sell for so cheap. They are rather complex machines, far more than a old school bus or highway truck. Good luck and even better effort. It is not likely your coach only has the few hundred thousand miles you believe it has, but even if it does, most of the parts would still be over 35 years old and need plenty of attention and some bucks to keep going. The coaches were design with 10 years & a million miles in mind, but not either/ or and even then, that did mean they needed maintenance.
John MC9 (John_mc9)
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Username: John_mc9

Post Number: 847
Registered: 7-2006
Posted From: 74.162.79.160


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Votes: 1 (Vote!)

Posted on Saturday, March 28, 2009 - 7:04 pm:   

Hey Tony ?

Re:
"How about just posting one thread, and asking ALL the questions on that same thread?".

"Don't agree. One topic per thread gets the best answers."


I asked Moti:

"How about just posting one thread, and asking ALL the questions on that same thread?
You've got the same question going on four different threads, ........."


If you're going to quote me, please do it in the actual context presented.

Thanks!
Tony LEE (T_lee)
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Username: T_lee

Post Number: 54
Registered: 11-2007
Posted From: 195.23.220.206

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Posted on Sunday, March 29, 2009 - 6:19 pm:   

As I said and still say.

""Don't agree. One topic per thread gets the best answers.""
John MC9 (John_mc9)
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Username: John_mc9

Post Number: 848
Registered: 7-2006
Posted From: 74.162.78.76


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Posted on Sunday, March 29, 2009 - 6:39 pm:   

I give up.

head-bang
Clint Hunter (Truthhunter)
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Username: Truthhunter

Post Number: 94
Registered: 1-2009
Posted From: 24.129.235.190


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Posted on Sunday, March 29, 2009 - 7:47 pm:   

multi - topic treads for some, mono-topic treads for others...
it's all good when doing it your way on your bus , unlike at burger king & certain others places...
R.C.Bishop (Chuckllb)
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Username: Chuckllb

Post Number: 585
Registered: 7-2006
Posted From: 75.210.241.9

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Posted on Sunday, March 29, 2009 - 10:59 pm:   

Picky...picky....picky...:-) :-)

RCB
Clint Hunter (Truthhunter)
Registered Member
Username: Truthhunter

Post Number: 99
Registered: 1-2009
Posted From: 24.129.235.190


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Posted on Sunday, March 29, 2009 - 11:52 pm:   

* & wee bit silly too *

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