| Author | Message | ||
| macgyver (91flyer)
Registered Member Username: 91flyer Post Number: 343 Registered: 11-2004 Posted From: 74.193.225.134  Rating: N/A |
Hey guys... Ok. My "new to me" 1970 PD-4905 has a bit of a milky problem... I thought, at first, she just needed a good wash... I did, with just plain water and a high pressure sprayer... When she was wet, she looked pretty good... Soon as she dried out, she looked just like she did in the first place... The exposed aluminum portions of the skin and bay doors looks kindof translucent milky white. Where the drip rails are, it simply looks like milk. I know this is corrosion, and since the bus was originally used in the Northeast, I'm assuming this is from salt and other things eating away at the anodized coating... I know my options are pretty much limited at this point to reskining (not an option) or just painting over them (prefer not to)... However... I found something that eliminates the milky look entirely except for the worst of it, and would like to know if I have any other options... What I've found so far, because of the bolts and screws that are rusted up and I anticipate needing to remove them in the near future to replace the parts they're holding in place... I've found that the penetrating oil I'm using (SeaFoam) seems to just lift the milky white corrosion right off the aluminum and leaves a nice SHINY surface... I've found that if I take a sponge and saturate it with SeaFoam, then wipe the exposed aluminum... It seems to just melt away the corrosion and provides a barrier to keep the water away, much like a coat of wax does for paint. I've also found that wax does NOTHING for the milky-white appearance, as I tried this on a very small section of the skin with no discernable effect... What do you guys think? What can I do short of repainting? SeaFoam is rather expensive, and although the spots it's currently on have shown no new milky appearance, I suspect it will wear off quickly and it'll be back to what it was before... Is there anything that could be done to remove the corrosion and then a clear-coat or something on the aluminum to preserve it? Is there a clearcoat that could be applied directly to the aluminum that wouldn't peel in the next few years? Is this even a viable solution? Or... Will I be stuck with buying a few cans of SeaFoam every month just to keep the corrosion at bay and preserve my aluminum? -Mac | ||
| Nick Badame Refrigeration Co. (Dnick85)
Registered Member Username: Dnick85 Post Number: 293 Registered: 2-2006 Posted From: 76.124.92.192  Rating: N/A |
Hi Mac, I would have to say try the least expansive way first. You can try this product that I use on aluminum all the time. It brightens and cleans. Obviously, you would be removing all the anodize coatings with this product. http://www.kssupplyco.com/brochures/K%20S%20%20Supply%20Aluma%20Bright%20H%20.pdf Good Luck Nick- | ||
| Pete/RTS Daytona (Pete_rtsdaytona)
Registered Member Username: Pete_rtsdaytona Post Number: 550 Registered: 1-2005 Posted From: 97.104.29.65  Rating: N/A |
You may want to use google and search __> phosphoric acid aluminum cleaner The KSSUPPLYCO product uses a VERY TOXIC HydroFluoric Acid - yes it's very dilute BUT ?? | ||
| Debbie and Joe Cannarozzi (Joe_camper)
Registered Member Username: Joe_camper Post Number: 145 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 71.239.202.82 Rating: N/A |
There is a very common type of "aluminum brightener" that will do exactly what you are experiencing, turning the aluminum white. Many truck washes offer this and if you have "polished" tanks and rims it will over multiple applications remove that shine for that white look. Sounds like that is what someone did on yours. The only option you have now is to re-polish. There is other products now on the market that will clean the aluminum without etching it but make sure or you will be making a lot of work for yourself bringing back the shine. | ||
| Debbie and Joe Cannarozzi (Joe_camper)
Registered Member Username: Joe_camper Post Number: 146 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 71.239.202.82 Rating: N/A |
Alcoa now offers polished aluminum rims with a clear-coat to preserve the shine but I am unaware of any good products currently available to the general public that will do the same for the sides of the bus. The only way to keep polished aluminum polished is to keep it clean and do frequent 'buffs" or touch-ups with Mothers or other similar products. | ||
| macgyver (91flyer)
Registered Member Username: 91flyer Post Number: 346 Registered: 11-2004 Posted From: 74.193.225.134 Rating: N/A |
DOH! I forgot to mention one (um, small?) thing in last night's post.... Whatever is doing it to the aluminum... It's doing it to the paint too. It was late, and I had a bug up my ass to get some posts and questions up and neglected to mention that detail... lol... :: shrugs :: It's just not doing it as badly... I'll take some good hi-rez snaps when I get a chance and post 'em... I hope it's not from acid wash, but yeah... I was thinking it might be too, was just hoping someone might have another idea.  But, on the 'bright side' (no pun intended, of course!)... Since it's cheap enough, and SEEMS to work, at least in the short term... I guess I get to be the first to try a "SeaFoam Foamup"! hehehe.... I'll just cover a larger area with it and see what happens over time... If it stays clean, bright and shiny... Maybe we have an alternative... Or, maybe the milky crud is from something else? Like salt? It's been on Pine Island in Florida for a while.... -Mac | ||
| Debbie and Joe Cannarozzi (Joe_camper)
Registered Member Username: Joe_camper Post Number: 147 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 71.239.202.82 Rating: N/A |
If you think you have found some miricle solution that will make your aluminum shine you are going to be disapointed. It has to be polished to get it there. | ||
| macgyver (91flyer)
Registered Member Username: 91flyer Post Number: 348 Registered: 11-2004 Posted From: 74.193.225.134 Rating: N/A |
Miracle? That'd be nice, but I have no such grand delusions... However, if it makes it shine and just needs a reapplication every now and then... I'm fine with that! ;) -Mac | ||
| doug yes (Dougg)
Registered Member Username: Dougg Post Number: 81 Registered: 1-2007 Posted From: 174.131.35.214 Rating: N/A |
I had a free bus wash with an oil change out west. I think they used the acid wash as the whole painted finish turned dull. So polishing is the only way back to bright? | ||
| Jack Conrad (Jackconrad)
Registered Member Username: Jackconrad Post Number: 1029 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 71.3.157.139  Rating: N/A |
Might try some rubbing compound (white) or a car polish such as AstroShield (it has a fine polishing compound in it) on the painted surface. A fine polish may remove the oxidation from the paint and make it look better. Jack | ||
| Debbie and Joe Cannarozzi (Joe_camper)
Registered Member Username: Joe_camper Post Number: 148 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 71.239.202.82 Rating: N/A |
Have you ever seen how filthy dirty black that guys get when they are polishing aluminum and stainless on Semis at custom shows or when a guy is doing it in the back corner of a truckstop. That does not happen because they are enjoying themselves. There is not a easier way. Whenever I pull a wheel I will do it. A "polisher" will not work as they only turn 1500rpm but they do not accept the correct pad anyway. You need a full size right Angie grinder They turn 7000rpm and the edge of the pad is what your using not the face. You dress the edge frequently with jewelers rouge and plan on getting dirty. BE VERY CARFUL This is all heavy metals and it is very unhealthy stuff to be around. The grinder will catch and pull in many spots, edges and such and has the potential to hurt you bad. I used to own an aluminum dump trlr as well as knowing 20 other guys with them and I doubt I have not heard or tried every idea or home remedy under the sun for trying to keep that factory polished finish for as long as possible. Guys tried everything. Acrylic floor wax was a clever idea I remember. If you are starting from scratch or trying to bring something back start with steel wool to get the big grime off and get at it with the grinder and rouge. | ||
| david moody (Buzzincuzzin)
Registered Member Username: Buzzincuzzin Post Number: 4 Registered: 3-2009 Posted From: 69.254.222.160 Rating: N/A |
As soon as I finish painting the H8H I'm going to wet-sand the brights with 1200 and get me some Popeye forearms! If there is another way to get the right look,,, I haven't heard of it. | ||
| Buswarrior (Buswarrior)
Registered Member Username: Buswarrior Post Number: 1561 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 76.66.19.196  Rating: N/A |
One of the paint companies makes a paint that does a great job of mimicking the right colour of the original aluminum. Someone had a 4104 at Arcadia back a few years that was gorgeous, you had to be pretty close to catch on that it was actually paint and not the aluminum. Nice thing about that solution, you can touch up all the little imperfections with body filler and have lovely looking skins again. Another option to maintain the look, the sneeky way! happy coaching! buswarrior | ||
| macgyver (91flyer)
Registered Member Username: 91flyer Post Number: 350 Registered: 11-2004 Posted From: 74.193.225.134 Rating: N/A |
BW... *THAT* sounds like an excellent idea... I'll be looking into that when it comes time to kill the rust and repaint... I know body work should be the last thing someone does on a conversion... But, I want to get the rust nipped in the ass before it gets REALLY bad... So, it'll be one of the higher priorities once I get some cashflow again... Thanks for the heads up... Hadn't thought about that as a solution.  -Mac | ||
| RJ Long (Rjlong)
Registered Member Username: Rjlong Post Number: 1533 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 98.192.173.82  Rating: N/A |
Mac - I know a fellow with a 4106 that you'd swear just came out of the factory, the aluminum looks that nice. Get up close - it's painted. Paint supplier matched the original look so closely, you really can't tell. Sorry, don't remember if it's DuPont, PPG, etc. I vote for a good paint job, rather than constant polishing. FWIW & HTH. . . | ||
| Mark Renner (Boomer)
Registered Member Username: Boomer Post Number: 157 Registered: 11-2006 Posted From: 206.58.200.38  Rating: N/A |
I have polished lots of wheels and fuel tanks, and seen lots of pro polishers at work. They all must be really hard up for a buck. The procedure is EXACTLY as Joe Camper described above. There just ain't any other way to get aluminum and stainless to look bright. If you have a pro polished piece you MIGHT keep it looking that way with hand polish, strong arms and a lotta beer and dedication but be advised that to get there from scratch is going to take some $$ or a lot of effort. Sorry for the bad news. That's why I put Durabrights on my bus. | ||
| Debbie and Joe Cannarozzi (Joe_camper)
Registered Member Username: Joe_camper Post Number: 149 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 71.239.202.82 Rating: N/A |
Mark that's cheating. Wish I could afford those. | ||
| john w. roan (Chessie4905)
Registered Member Username: Chessie4905 Post Number: 1420 Registered: 10-2003 Posted From: 71.58.110.9  Rating: N/A |
That milky finish is the factory anodizing deteriorating from the years of weather exposure. Nothing out there will restore it. If you remove and polish it. It will shine like polished aluminum wheel on the semi's ( except the new Alcoas that have that shiny Dura Bright finish). Only trouble with that is; it will gradually lose that shine and need frequent repolishing, which would be a MAJOR PITA on such a large surface area. This is one reason why many older GM models have been prepped and had all the aluminum painted. The aluminum was really dull or milky. In previous years, one could take their coach to a company like Body Rite in New Jersey ( no longer in business or all panels no longer available.) I remember hearing that having a 4106 redone back in the 70's was about $10,000. What you can do today is to go to an auto parts store or Walmart and buy a can of Never Dull. It is a chrome looking can about 3 inches in diameter and about 3 inches high. It contains wadding in it. Pull out a smallish piece of wadding and rub an area on the coach. Take your time. A couple of applications will make an astonishing improvement, well worth the effort. The exterior will look much,much better. I don't know if I'd use it on the paint. For that, I'd use NuFinish- comes in an orange bottle on the paint with elbow grease and some patience. Now the aluminum will look good, however, depending on the weather conditions and especially rain, the origonal dullness will return. But the never dull can be re applied with little effort. | ||
| Luvrbus (Luvrbus)
Registered Member Username: Luvrbus Post Number: 693 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 24.26.199.127 Rating: N/A |
That cloudy look is why us Eagle owners dodge the truck washes.I was told that AZ is the only state that will not let the truck washes use acid.I have a friend that a truck wash destoryed his mirrior siding with acid wash good luck | ||
| Len Silva (Lsilva)
Registered Member Username: Lsilva Post Number: 223 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 24.164.20.23  Rating: N/A |
I worked with a guy who re-skinned more than one Eagle, paid for by the truck wash insurance company, after they acid washed the coach. | ||
| Clint Hunter (Truthhunter)
Registered Member Username: Truthhunter Post Number: 147 Registered: 1-2009 Posted From: 24.129.235.190  Rating: N/A |
thank mci for stainless, I use simple green with a garden sprayer, scrub with a push broom and rinse, it comes out sparkling & clean. I did heard mention on the board that it can etch aluminum, but I have not found this to happen. It is easy on humans that is certain, and a very good ,economical all purpose cleaner that does not leave much of a film. $12 a gallon concentrate goes a very long way. Used it for many years in many ways. | ||
| john w. roan (Chessie4905)
Registered Member Username: Chessie4905 Post Number: 1446 Registered: 10-2003 Posted From: 71.58.110.9 Rating: N/A |
TRUCK WASHES???? What ever happened to the old garden hose and scrub brush on a long handle and elbow grease? |