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Peter River (Whitebus)
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Username: Whitebus

Post Number: 127
Registered: 4-2009
Posted From: 204.62.111.51


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Posted on Thursday, July 16, 2009 - 5:04 pm:   

what is involved in making this happen?

I have manual adjustment 2 for front, one for rear.

My bus rides a little high, I would love to be able to adjust the height to be lowered when I am crusing on the highway, and have a higher stance when I am going over some rough patch.
Roger Baughman (Roger)
Registered Member
Username: Roger

Post Number: 124
Registered: 11-2006
Posted From: 75.11.185.60


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Posted on Thursday, July 16, 2009 - 6:52 pm:   

Peter, If you will take a look at the classified add on this sit you will find what you are looking for. Click on the link just below where you clicked on the BOARD. The air bag leveling system there is what I have on my bus and it works just fine. Good lock, Roger
Cullen Newsom (Cullennewsom)
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Username: Cullennewsom

Post Number: 101
Registered: 2-2009
Posted From: 98.201.161.214

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Posted on Thursday, July 16, 2009 - 8:33 pm:   

Sean Welsh has a nice system detailed here:
http://www.busnut.com/bbs/messages/233/5646.html?1078872754#POST34290

and here:

http://odyssey.smugmug.com/gallery/77568/2/2688324#2688324_8H7vq
FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
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Username: Fast_fred

Post Number: 883
Registered: 10-2006
Posted From: 76.195.78.219


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Posted on Friday, July 17, 2009 - 6:25 am:   

I have been to lazy to install a leveling system , but it should be EZ.

I have contemplated using heavy duty locking push pull cables.

They would hook to the operating arm of the leveling valves.

The forward one at the dash for use underway, the rear units mostly for campsite leveling.

The rear could be used on crappy road to raise the ground clearance , but would not be needed very often.

Locking push pull cables are reliable and not expensive .And very low maint.

FF
Dan West (Utahclaimjumper)
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Username: Utahclaimjumper

Post Number: 192
Registered: 1-2005
Posted From: 208.66.38.115

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Posted on Friday, July 17, 2009 - 3:32 pm:   

I have the four point manual system and it works swell, but FF has a fantastic idea, you could color code the cable at the handle end to set the highth any where you needed it for any purpose. I once had to raise mine to max to get off a high center problem, I was glad to have it.>>>Dan
Peter River (Whitebus)
Registered Member
Username: Whitebus

Post Number: 128
Registered: 4-2009
Posted From: 67.77.201.181


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Posted on Friday, July 17, 2009 - 5:33 pm:   

these are some really good idea, I appreciate it.

I am a little concerned about what I read in the manual and on the web.

it says that the height of the front and back has to be just so, because mere 1/4" difference can affect the driveshaft from engine to axle, and can cause premature wear or worse.

I would like to hear the opinion of bus owners on that subject...
Sean Welsh (Sean)
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Username: Sean

Post Number: 937
Registered: 1-2003
Posted From: 67.142.130.23


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Posted on Friday, July 17, 2009 - 6:05 pm:   

Peter,

You should set your ride height as per manufacturer's recommendation when driving the coach, otherwise you could experience excessive wear or worse -- extreme drive shaft angles can cause undue stress on U-joints and other components.

That being said, there should be no problem adjusting these values while parked. Also, temporary adjustment at low speeds and low torque for short distances should also not be a problem. For example, we adjust up or down as needed to avoid getting hung up on steep driveways, humps, or low underpasses. We are never driving more than 10-15 mph when we do this.

HTH,

-Sean
http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com
Dan West (Utahclaimjumper)
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Username: Utahclaimjumper

Post Number: 193
Registered: 1-2005
Posted From: 208.66.38.60

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Posted on Friday, July 17, 2009 - 6:47 pm:   

You also have to know that the coach travels much more vertically that 1/4 inch when going down the road, the weight variables alone would be more than that.>>>Dan
Peter River (Whitebus)
Registered Member
Username: Whitebus

Post Number: 129
Registered: 4-2009
Posted From: 67.77.201.181


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Posted on Friday, July 17, 2009 - 7:09 pm:   

Sean, any recommendation on what rating and travel for those actuators?
Sean Welsh (Sean)
Registered Member
Username: Sean

Post Number: 938
Registered: 1-2003
Posted From: 67.142.130.23


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Posted on Friday, July 17, 2009 - 7:12 pm:   

Dan

One of the features of air suspension is that the coach rides at exactly the same height no matter what the weight or how it is distributed. That's the whole point behind the "ride height control" valves we've been discussing.

So, no, the weight variables alone will not affect the suspension or driveline geometry. You are correct that, as the coach travels over bumps, etc, there will be much more than ¼" of travel, however on average, the driveline and suspension geometry will be consistent.

-Sean
http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com
Sean Welsh (Sean)
Registered Member
Username: Sean

Post Number: 939
Registered: 1-2003
Posted From: 67.142.130.23


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Posted on Friday, July 17, 2009 - 7:23 pm:   


quote:

Sean, any recommendation on what rating and travel for those actuators?




The actuating levers for the ride-height valves require mere ounces of force to operate -- you could do it with your fingertip. So the weight ratings of the actuators are almost irrelevant.

It's more important that you find ones that have the right amount of travel for your application, are rated for "splash" environments (and they will get splashed with water, mud, etc. down there), and have an overall physical size that will fit where you need them to.

The travel requirement is something you will have to measure for yourself -- my figures will not be useful on your bus. Make up a manually adjustable rod to replace your existing control rods, and try a bunch of different settings to see how much variance in control rod height will let you adjust from down on the stops to full bag inflation.

Bear in mind that an actuator with less travel than you need (unlikely you will find one of these) can be made to work simply by attaching it closer to the valve's actuator lever pivot than the stock control rod, and, likewise, one with more travel can be used by extending the control lever somewhat.

I bought my actuators based on getting a deal on them on eBay. They are way overkill (rated for something like 100lbs each), but they were small and had the right travel. Also, I wanted position pots, so I could repeatably "center" them back to travel height.

Once I had them, we had to modify both the valve levers and the fixed mounts to make them fit -- they were considerably longer than the fixed control rods.

They have performed flawlessly for five years, with the exception of a couple of wires breaking over time due to bad joints or improper strain relief.

-Sean
http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com
John MC9 (John_mc9)
Registered Member
Username: John_mc9

Post Number: 951
Registered: 7-2006
Posted From: 98.70.64.203


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Posted on Monday, July 20, 2009 - 2:25 am:   

Peter -

Check with Pete in Daytona, Florida.

He's a fellow busnut and sells a great leveling system! I have dealt
with Pete with a unrelated device, and can attest to his honesty
and integrity.

Even if you don't buy a thing, Pete's the kind of guy that will help
you any way he can!

(click on that link above)

Cheers!
Randy Davidson (Rdavidson)
Registered Member
Username: Rdavidson

Post Number: 26
Registered: 7-2006
Posted From: 32.178.97.249

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Posted on Monday, July 20, 2009 - 10:10 pm:   

I concur -- Pete's the guy to see. I used his "stuff" and it works perfectly.

Now if I could get all my air leaks figured out I'd be setting pretty level right now! Ha!

Randy

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