| Author |
Message |
JT4104 (64.194.119.141)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, February 16, 2001 - 10:16 am: | |
My 4104 is painted was painted with emeron paint by the former owner. It looks great, except a few areas which contain dried drips of the paint. Is there a way to remove or lessen the severity of these drips without having to repaint? |
Usher (162.40.197.178)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, February 16, 2001 - 10:44 am: | |
Imron is a *itch to work with after it has dried. The only way to remove the drips will be to sand them off. If you are really careful, you might be able to just sand the drips by using a sanding block. Then you will have to buff the area to make it shine again. Try some 400 grit and as you get close to the right height, switch over to 600 grit. Use a steady supply of water on the area as you sand, and be really cautious about sanding the flat areas. You will cut through the paint, into the primer and then have to touch-up.
If the Imron is a stock color (ie white) you may be better off to sand a larger area and have someone shoot the panel back to a detail line. |
Tuck-04 (165.166.44.14)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, February 16, 2001 - 9:32 pm: | |
Wet sand with some 320 or 400 around a flat stick nd then rub it out with some # 1 and 2 mirror glaze from your napa store |
samuel trammell (205.188.197.37)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, February 17, 2001 - 12:06 am: | |
I have seen demonstrations where they used a razor blade to gently shave the raised portion down. Then do the sanding bit.
Sam |
Jim4905 (209.240.221.87)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, February 17, 2001 - 7:22 pm: | |
Hey guys,If you use 320 or 400 grit it will for the most part be IMPOSSIBLE to get the sand scrathes out by buffing. You need to use 1500 grit. This is what i do for a living, so believe me. You would have to buff so hard, you would burn the paint off, before 320 marks would come out. Imron paint, although unbelievably durable, I a $itch to work with. It sets up so hard, you can't do much with it once it dries. I have a truck shop next to mine and they spray hundreds of gallons a year of Imron. Many times when there is a problem, they have to repaint, because the stuff is so hard to work with.
Check with a local body shop supply co. There is a little paint shaver for runs and drips. It's a piece of wood 1 inch square, with little file teeth on one side. you CAREFULLY slide the shaver over the drip. Just on the drip. It will shave the paint down. then lightly wet sand the area and buff it. Be carefull buffing. You have to buff hard enough to heat the paint alittle to get the cutting action, but too much will burn the paint. It heats up and sorta smears. Good luck. Jim 4905 |
Terry Neumann (66.8.194.104)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, February 18, 2001 - 11:34 am: | |
Hey Jim!
Do you use an HVLP system? If so, how do you treat the paint mix compared to a standard high pressure siphon feed gun? I have a guy sending me a complete system as a gift that stayed at our B&B. He manufactures HVLP systems and air fed respirators. (One of the perks :-)) |
John Jewett (Jayjay) (152.163.204.204)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, February 18, 2001 - 10:08 pm: | |
Terry, I used to sell Lex-aire hvlp's and used them too. Try thinning to about 12 to 15 seconds from a Dupont Viscosity Cup (#2 I think) Due to the heat from the turbine, you need to spray a lot thinner mixture, and be vey careful about overspray, since it is much dryer than from a siphon gun. I found that I usually had to work a bit faster than with a Bink's #7 or a DeVilbiss # 35 gun. Practice a good bit before committing to a real project. HTH Cheers...JJ |
Clarke Echols (216.17.134.182)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, March 11, 2001 - 5:18 pm: | |
Imron is notorious for it's impossible-to-repair characteristics. My son has painted more cars in less than 10 years than most painters paint in a lifetime. He likes PPG, is good with Sikkens, and has used some others too. A quality paint, applied by someone who knows what they're doing, will hold up, and if he does a Sikkens job, it's guaranteed by the company for as long as the customer owns the vehicle -- full replacement.
I don't know what the guarantee is from PPG and others.
Clarke |