| Author |
Message |
Fred Wheeler (209.240.198.60)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 13, 2003 - 9:35 pm: | |
I have a 57 4104 with a DD 671. When I shut down motor, the radiator burps, like it has air in it. I tried to bleed air off, but it keeps coming back. When I let motor sit not running, water enters the air box above the cyclinder nearest the radiator and drains out the air box drain. I removed air box covers and can see the water dripping down from the head area. I assume it must be a cracked head. The engine has never overheated and runs a 170. It has never even reached 190 pulling the mountains out west. If anyone has any answers as to what it might be, or a good mechanic in the Sacramento, Ca area I would appreciate the help. The bus is in a heated and air-conditioned warehouse with a air compressor and most tools needed for repair. I would like a mechanic that could possibly do the repairs at my warehouse if possible. Thanks for any ideas on the cause of the problem. |
John Rigby (24.174.235.126)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 13, 2003 - 10:09 pm: | |
Fred
Have you checked the oil? If so is the engine making any/ meaning,oil raising up on the dip stick? Is the oil on the dip stick milkey or grey?
It is highly possibly your temp gauge is not working, correctly and you have blown a head gasket.This is a very weak area on the 671.
To pull the head check it and go back should take 12 to 14 man hours.Have the head thoughly checked perhaps vavles reground.( cost me $700.00 for this to be done to my head )I did most of the labor myself.Could not of attempted it without the help of bus nuts from california.
John |
modelt (208.18.102.164)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 13, 2003 - 10:19 pm: | |
Fred,
Could be several things; you will have to pull the head off and have it checked for cracks or bad head gasket, check head and bed might have to have them plained (milled). Another possibility is you might need to pull the sleeve, check block and sleeve to see if seal (if one) and check for corrosive damage to block.
Don't know of a mechanic out that way however back a month or so there were several posts recommending a mechanic, out I think near you. The post was about I believe - air compressor, generator or starter fiber gear problems?
Good luck,
Larry |
carolina houndog (166.102.117.87)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 13, 2003 - 11:43 pm: | |
Fred
Could also be an injector tube leaking.
Regards |
Peter Aduskevich (Slowslowpete) (63.215.234.107)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, March 14, 2003 - 12:00 am: | |
Injector tube? Maybe |
Mike Stabler (Docdezl) (64.255.109.232)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, March 14, 2003 - 12:17 am: | |
Sounds like compresson leaking thru and to cooling system. Conversly when the engine is shut down coolant at pressure is following the air back where it came from.
Pulling a few air box covers. Clean with carb. or brake clean. Presurize cooling system have a look. Pull valve cover and watch around injector tubes (copper)?
My vote goes >head gaskits>$
Second >warped head >$$
Third >jector tube >$$
Forth >cracked head>$$$$$$
Smoke,rattle&,stink.....dcodezl |
Fred Wheeler (209.240.198.60)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, March 14, 2003 - 1:44 am: | |
Thanks guys for the help. Is there a fitting on the engine or radiator to pressurize the system. I have an air compressor for up to 120lbs. Also what pressure in lbs to check system. I have pulled air box covers and can see water coming from head area in one. I did notice on the trip before this trip that I was leaking from the back of the engine alittle more oil than usual. Could this have been the start of the head gasket going? I do not believe it would be a warped or cracked head, since in the 12 years that I have had the coach, it has never overheated and the guage works fine. If it looks like I have to pull the head, then I will start to tackle that job this weekend. I have the major repair manuel and have a good mechanical background. Any tips on head removal.
Thanks again,
Fred |
Johnny (63.29.158.10)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, March 14, 2003 - 8:56 am: | |
Uhh, this works on a car, so why not on a bus: pull the radiator cap and pressurize the cooling system to 10-12psi. Might not work--but who knows, you might find the problem. Worst case, you've wasted half an hour. |
modelt (208.18.102.28)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, March 14, 2003 - 9:10 am: | |
Fred
Check da book for radiator cap recommend pressure, pressurise the system thru cap (like is done for cars & lite trucks) if you are keeping the radiator in system, don't want to blow your radiator or expansion box,120 lbs will do just that & poss take radiator with it.
Many times when this problem starts you will also see you engine start to slobber, do to oil, fuel and water mix, after engines warm they will many times stop leaking until it cools back down.
Best to you,
Larry |
modelt (208.18.102.28)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, March 14, 2003 - 9:19 am: | |
Fred
I wanted to say, if you have your head or deck milled as I mentioned above be sure to check bed height (stroke),if it has been done in past taking it down to far could get you a piston or valve slap. If it has been milled to much you can get a thicker gasket or shim gasket to make up for than, also use copper coat when putting it back together.
Again good luck,
Larry |
jim wilke (12.46.52.74)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, March 14, 2003 - 9:42 am: | |
Fred, if your 6-71 has the 2 valve head, this would be a good time to upgrade to a 4 valve head. A no-brainer if your head is cracked. (What am I saying, if your head wasn't cracked, you wouldn't be fooling with buses!!!) Lots of Nuts have reported significant power gains after changing. Lord knows the 4104 could stand some more get up & go!
Jim-Bob |
Doug (12.90.23.160)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, March 17, 2003 - 8:04 pm: | |
is the 57 the year they made the 04 with the high mount air intake......
if so, they are prone to allowing air into the air intake system.....
thats why they only did it the one year. |
Jon W (68.47.246.36)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, March 19, 2003 - 5:28 pm: | |
Fred, I just had the same problem on an 8V92. It doesn't matter what it is, the engine is going to have to come apart.
In my case I had a crack between two valves on one of the heads.
I got away with dripping from the drain for almost a year, but after sitting for four days 650 miles from home I went to start it and the engine was locked up hydraulically. I turned it by hand backwards (with a big wrench) until the piston got below the air slots, drained the cylinder and then it spun and started.
I rebuilt it after getting home. I was lucky that nothing broke when I tried to start it.
I could be a bad seal at on of the cylinder liners, in which case you just have an annoying leak, but with air getting into cooling system I would guess its a head problem. |
Fred Wheeler (209.240.198.60)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, March 19, 2003 - 7:11 pm: | |
Thanks everyone for all the help. Pulled head and found 1 injector tube seal bad and crack in one cylinder liner with some minor damage to piston. Will be doing a complete rebuild with 4 valve head. Read above posts under Straight 6-71 rebuild.
Thanks again,
Fred |