| Author | Message | ||
| R.C.Bishop (Chuckllb)
Registered Member Username: Chuckllb Post Number: 1289 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 75.242.220.51 Rating: N/A |
Onan, that is......I have a couple of questions about the charging system...(yes I have a manual  ) Thanx, RCB (Message edited by Chuckllb on June 16, 2010) | ||
| Bill 340 (Bill_340)
Registered Member Username: Bill_340 Post Number: 111 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 75.248.187.54  Rating: N/A |
Dont know about the charging but it was one of the best generators< we ever had, No Electronics and a very simple sound box made it real quiet, | ||
| R.C.Bishop (Chuckllb)
Registered Member Username: Chuckllb Post Number: 1292 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 75.243.61.149 Rating: N/A |
Yep...agree with you Bill. I am amazed that apparently no one out there in Busland has one. Onan states that a low battery must be charged by an external charger...was wondering if any one else had experienced a "no start" due to bad battery. Just seemed to me the critter should stay charged after multiple runs of a couple of hours each. Thought there might be an "experience" level that would prove (or disprove) their statement. RCB | ||
| Austin Scott Davis (Zimtok)
Registered Member Username: Zimtok Post Number: 423 Registered: 9-2006 Posted From: 209.156.24.114  Rating: N/A |
I have a NH series Onan.... It does not keep the start battery charged so I connected an external floating battery charger to the 115vac. (set to 2amp) That way it charges when the generator is running. And also when hooked to shore power. . | ||
| marvin pack (Gomer)
Registered Member Username: Gomer Post Number: 934 Registered: 3-2007 Posted From: 71.55.3.249  Rating: N/A |
RC, I am trying to find my notes ofOnan gen charging systems and I am LOOKING.If and when I do I will post it. Gomer | ||
| R.C.Bishop (Chuckllb)
Registered Member Username: Chuckllb Post Number: 1293 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 75.243.61.149 Rating: N/A |
Thanx for the suggestion, Austin....I had considered using a 10 watt solar panel to keep that battery fully charged....but, alas....$$$ and other consideration (the cotton-pickin- generator should do it)...I have not... but, waaa laah....most probably , NOW, will... If you get my drift!... And thanx to you Gomer...keep looking!!! RCB | ||
| R.C.Bishop (Chuckllb)
Registered Member Username: Chuckllb Post Number: 1296 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 75.243.128.153 Rating: N/A |
Checked this NH Generator six ways to Sunday today and found the following: One cylinder not firing...checked plug, wire and coil....exchanged plugs (hole for hole) same thing/exchanged wires, same thing/exchanged wires in coil, same thing) Coil seems OK, but have not measured it(in Ohms) to specs. Condenser...not sure how one knows if it is good or not. There is good output to the coil. NOW, the kicker...this generator has NO POINTS,...it is a weird setup that I am absolutely not familiar with...pretty much the same with the carburetor system....different!! The manual I have addresses neither of these. Anyone familiar with such a animal? Special application generator, etc etc??? Thanx for thoughts and ideas. RCB | ||
| George M. Todd (George_todd)
Registered Member Username: George_todd Post Number: 1044 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 99.184.9.29 Rating: N/A |
Chuck, You can check the condenser with an analog ohmmeter, by using the lowest resistance scale, and touching a lead to each terminal. A good capacitor, (what a condenser is) will cause the needle to drop, then rise to infinite resistance. Reverse the leads, and the needle should drop, then rise. No drop, the capacitor is open, continuous low reading, cap is shorted. If you only have one capacitor in the system, it is not the problem. Is this a horizontally opposed engine where both cyls fire at the same time? If so, the only thing left sounds like no compression on the non-firing cylinder? All that will affect is 120 VAC output. I THINK the exciter on these does the battery charging output, and if so, it isn't much. A suggestion, if the gen batt is good, is to parallel it with the start batts. Charged batts are happy batts, and if that causes you too much puckering, put a solenoid bewteen the starts and the gen batt, with the coil connected to the master. That way the gen batt will charge whenever either engine is running. G | ||
| Glen Rice (Rgrauto)
Registered Member Username: Rgrauto Post Number: 11 Registered: 2-2006 Posted From: 71.31.233.93 Rating: N/A |
Chuck, you may need to do a compression check on that cylinder. Onan's have mechanical valves. To adjust the valves, you remove the intake. There is a 2x2 steel plate with a single bolt in center and the valves are underneath. Usually the ex. valve has no clearance. My experience is with 4000,5500,6500,1970 and 1980 Onans. Glen | ||
| Pete/RTS Daytona (Pete_rtsdaytona)
Registered Member Username: Pete_rtsdaytona Post Number: 617 Registered: 1-2005 Posted From: 97.104.18.110  Rating: N/A |
this may help http://www.bdub.net/manuals/Onan/Onan6kwNH_Major-Service.pdf http://www.bdub.net/manuals/Onan/Onan6kwNH_Operator-Parts.pdf | ||
| R.C.Bishop (Chuckllb)
Registered Member Username: Chuckllb Post Number: 1297 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 75.210.130.222 Rating: N/A |
Pete, Glen,George...thanx for that information. The manual I have is somewhat different that the two Pete sent....ironically, both of those have the carburetor that I have...mine does not. Unfortunately, none of the three address a "no points" situation. I am going to take a look at the valve suggestion; also take a new look at coil and condenser. A private email suggested a possible fuel blockage.. Back to the task tomorrow....after I get a non-functional well pump problem resolved (house). Father's Day was sort of ...well....different! Thanx, RCB | ||
| les marston (Les_marston)
Registered Member Username: Les_marston Post Number: 83 Registered: 1-2010 Posted From: 68.151.225.213 Rating: N/A |
I am pretty good with pumps chuck anything I can help with? Les The water guy | ||
| Laryn Christley (Barn_owl)
Registered Member Username: Barn_owl Post Number: 668 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 71.254.40.148  Rating: N/A |
I am not understanding the NH not having points. There should be a small rectangular box between the gen-head and the carburetor. A push rod enters through the bottom of that box to operate the points. Has someone converted yours to electronic ignition? If so your sensor could be on the flywheel. Like this: http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/1344546 Lots of stuff here: http://users.california.com/~eagle/generator.html | ||
| R.C.Bishop (Chuckllb)
Registered Member Username: Chuckllb Post Number: 1298 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 75.242.95.203 Rating: N/A |
Hi, Les...most probably just age of the pump. I checked continuity on capacitor (also looks OK) have power at the control panel, etc. I'm open to suggestions (above ground ) Laryn...I don't understand it either,...apparently it is an electronic thing. There are two Bosch relays; one from the control board, with connections to a larger relay which is connected to a larger finned thing...then into another Bosch relay and on to the coil. Don't know if it is after market or the way it was originally constructed. Manuals show nothing. I have devoured about everything on the internet, but have not found "the answer"as of this time. I hate to just start taking stuff apart, so am proceeding slowly. Thanx for the help and suggestions, folks. I will keep working at it.....I do not trust shops in our area to "do the right thing"...BTDT. When it rains...well... you know the "rest" of the saying. RCB | ||
| les marston (Les_marston)
Registered Member Username: Les_marston Post Number: 84 Registered: 1-2010 Posted From: 68.151.225.213 Rating: N/A |
Well Chuck As far as above ground goes. check for power on both sides of the pressure switch then again for power on the wires going down the well to the pump. If this is a 3 wire pump you will have a control box called a motor start switch. Not to be confused with the pressure switch, This will be a (usually) grey box hung on the wall somewhere in the area of the pressure tank. If you have power on all 4 contacts of the pressure switch but no power going down the well to the pump, then the motor start switch is to blame. If you do have power going down the well but the pump is not running then the pump is the problem. This is good for both 110 and 220 volt pumps (3 wire) If it is a 2 wire pump then just check for power at the top of the well. If you have power and the pump isn't running the problem is the pump. If no power at the top of the well then the circuit breaker is tripped or the pressure switch has failed. Give me more details on the pump and pressure system and I can give better info. Les | ||
| R.C.Bishop (Chuckllb)
Registered Member Username: Chuckllb Post Number: 1299 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 75.242.95.203 Rating: N/A |
Tenacity, right??? ...well, that plus common sense, perhaps... Turns out the generator intake manifold was not fastened tight to the cylinder that was not firing... simple as that. I had loosened two bolts holding not only the intake manifold, but some heat shielding, in order to remove the shielding. All testing was done with the heat shield off....then it dawned on me.."could it be>"....and it was! New plugs on both cylinders and it appears we're good to go. Thanx for all the help and attempts, folks. And thanx for the Archives, in case I should need it again. Les...the "problem" turned out to be that the pump had come loose from the pipe.....still not fixed, however. After they made a new brass bushing for the plastic pipe, they dropped the pump back in the well....it discharged for about two minutes, then quit! More tomorrow, after Cataract Surgery (me) and a third trip back to pull the pump and see what is going on (them) $$$$...nightmares, as well. Pray for me...on both counts! \ RCB |