| Author |
Message |
R.C.Bishop (128.123.221.167)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, April 16, 2003 - 10:57 am: | |
Would appreciate any ideas on the best way to secure a standard refrigerator box in it's closet.
I read somewhere on this or another board that it is dangerous to drill holes in the box itself.
The unit we're planning is a 12cf, 2 door box.
Thanx for your input.
RCB |
Gary Stadler (Boogiethecat) (68.7.217.217)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, April 16, 2003 - 11:02 am: | |
RC, while you probably don't want to drill holes in deep enough in the sides to possibly hit freon lines, I'd think it would be completely OK to use sharp pointed sheet metal screws maybe 3/8" long, to fasten a few angle iron brackets to the base, that you could then use to fasten the fridge to the floor. This is what I did with one of mine, no problems...
Cheers
Gary |
Jayjay (198.81.26.108)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, April 17, 2003 - 1:13 pm: | |
I used 1" aluminum angle (one on each side) about 2" long with two # 8X1" wood screws into the floor, and 1 #10X3/4" long into the base where the casters were at the front of it. Use one of the frame screws at the top-rear to add an angle there. You may have to replace a 1/2" screw with a 3/4" to allow for the thickness of the angle. Used on a 12 and a 10 cu.ft. model. Cheers...JJ |
SLO (Slo) (24.205.227.122)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, April 17, 2003 - 9:40 pm: | |
I've got a full blown 25 cu ft side by side, and I'm going with sidewall brackets up to roof ribs using short sheet metal screws into the sides. I'm blocking the bottom to prevent unwanted forward launches on the factory wheels. Both are accessable for semi easy release in case I ever want to roll it out and clean behind it. If it actually needs to be replaced ever, I'm selling the bus............LOL
SLO |
Jack_In_KC (65.26.91.94)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, April 17, 2003 - 11:46 pm: | |
Some models circulate warm coolant near the seal to keep frost from forming. This is more energy efficient than using electric elements for this purpose. Watch where you drill holes around the seal on the front of the unit.
Make sure and allow for circulation around the cooling coils. Not just air but circulation. |
Mike Eades (Mike4905) (206.15.134.123)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 20, 2003 - 2:24 pm: | |
R.C. i just put mine in with the ice maker hooked up. The fridge is tilted towards the outside wall and hasn't moved in three years. We put on about 35K miles a summer. It works fine Mike |
R.C.Bishop (128.123.221.139)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 20, 2003 - 11:22 pm: | |
Mike, I guess you saying you just raised the front to keep it from tumbling on a curve. Do you not have it anchored in any way?
Thanx
RCB |
Mike Eades (Mike4905) (206.15.153.113)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, May 26, 2003 - 7:57 am: | |
The only anchor I have is for the doors to stay closed. I tilted it back to the water drain from the condenser. Mike. If you are near U.S. Caoch, you can stop until Wed and see it Mike |