| Author | Message | ||
| Jason Simons (Bigblock01)
Registered Member Username: Bigblock01 Post Number: 33 Registered: 6-2008 Posted From: 98.92.3.221  Rating: N/A |
I was look at to room a/c to go in my mc9 I don't want roof mounts cause I want to keep roof clean and basement is out cause I need all the bay space for equipment and product. Can get two room a/c with heat 14,000 btu draws 10.5 amps, 1250 watts cooling and 8.5 amps, 1025 watts heating each approx. I was thinking two cause I had thought about 2-13.5 roofs but really don't want to go that route just cause I like the clean roof line. Any ideas? | ||
| Sean Welsh (Sean)
Registered Member Username: Sean Post Number: 1115 Registered: 1-2003 Posted From: 72.171.0.142  Rating: |
Not sure what you are talking about here when you say "room a/c"; that could mean many things. If you are talking about the freestanding units that exhaust with a hose, bear in mind that they have the worst efficiency of all types of air conditioners. In addition to removing the heat from the living space, they also need to remove the heat produced by their own machinery. Depending on hose length, some of that heat will come right back in. These units need to be exhausted through a window or other cutout, and you'll need a way to seal around that. They are not meant for permanent installation in a moving vehicle, and you will need to engineer a way to keep the weather out of the exhaust duct. If you intend to run them under way, you'll also need to engineer the air flow around the exhaust properly for this purpose. You will also need a way to drain the condensate. No reason they wouldn't work, but you'll be giving up a lot of interior space and efficiency and opening yourself up to water-related problems at the exhaust. -Sean http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com | ||
| Tim (Timkar)
Registered Member Username: Timkar Post Number: 142 Registered: 10-2004 Posted From: 64.141.73.7  Rating: N/A |
Here is another option for the "Room A/C", albeit not the portable ones.. As written another thing to be concerned about is getting the heat from the ceiling area.... http://www.busconversions.com/bbs/index.php?topic=15933.msg176898#msg176898 | ||
| Jim Wallin (Powderseeker01)
Registered Member Username: Powderseeker01 Post Number: 81 Registered: 10-2008 Posted From: 72.37.244.90  Rating: N/A |
You might take a look at a mini-split... a sort of basement compromise | ||
| Floyd Lillies (Flois)
Registered Member Username: Flois Post Number: 9 Registered: 1-2006 Posted From: 64.114.143.93  Rating: N/A |
Just spent a week in Kelowna, BC and the temperature hit 36 Celsius ... the 1850 watt basement air didn't keep up .... went up to 28 degs C. inside so I jury-rigged our 1500 watt portable Sears model through the mid-ship window and it promptly brought the temperature down to a comfortable 20 degrees (about 68 deg. F.) .... wife and grandkids spent more time inside than outside! Takes up a fair bit of room but being on wheels you can aim in towards the front or towards the bedroom. If you fashion a panel to hold the inlet/outlet flex tubes to pop in and out as needed, you will be a hero to your family as I was. It does use up a bit of space but in my opinion, worth it. My basement air works fine up front when driving through the inverter, just not enough capacity for the whole house when parked. | ||
| steve wardwell (Steve_wardwell)
Registered Member Username: Steve_wardwell Post Number: 43 Registered: 2-2010 Posted From: 75.201.233.239  Rating: |
The freestanding units barely work. When supplementing another over worked or undersized unit they might make the difference. But by themselves they are lame. not fixed so not roadworthy, produce gallons of waste water,and with their mass of pipes and tubes, cords and then plugging the open window. I would think these units should be the last choice. 14000 BTU is a stretch( in my opinion) I would reconcider low profile roof units,easy to install,set it and forget it,cheap to replace, barely there. | ||
| Edward J. Sommers (Sommersed)
Registered Member Username: Sommersed Post Number: 56 Registered: 10-2004 Posted From: 148.63.161.138 Rating: |
Here in Elko, Nevada, it was over 95 degrees today. Too hot for me so I broke out my 8K window unit and slid it into the frame I made to fit in the shady side of the bus window. Total time to set up the Air Con about 16 minutes. I hang a drapery over the open doorway to the lav/shower/bedroom area and cooled the other 2/3 with the window unit. The result was .... Outside 95 to 97 degrees, inside stayed around 75/76. The key to make this happen is to have the aircon on the shady side while covering the sunny side windows with foil covered bubble wrap FROM THE OUTSIDE OF THE WINDOW! In weather where it is 110 to 120 outside I use a 5000 BTU unit in the back 1/3 and it gets so cold I have to turn down the Aircon to low. My rooftop units were taken out and I filled the roof with solar ... 1200 watts plus satt antenna and power vents. Ed | ||
| Alex (4905_doc)
Registered Member Username: 4905_doc Post Number: 8 Registered: 1-2010 Posted From: 75.121.202.218 Rating: |
I did it in my 4905. simple and efficient. piped the exhaust right out the side along with a small water line. Added a small fan to a shelf above the unit to help move air. [IMG]http://i991.photobucket.com/albums/af36/zion-dyi/bus/busslightyear015.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i991.photobucket.com/albums/af36/zion-dyi/bus/busslightyear014.jpg[/IMG] | ||
| Tom Christman (Tchristman)
Registered Member Username: Tchristman Post Number: 232 Registered: 1-2006 Posted From: 66.218.33.156 Rating: N/A |
If you do use a portable room A/C, get the one with two hoses. Then you keep the outside air outside. With a single hose unit, you have to keep a window cracked since the A/C is always pulling inside air over the condenser then exhausting it outside. I have the two hose Soleusair 12,000btu for my bedroom at home. It works well, but doesn't put out the amount of cold that my 13,500btu roof top Colemans do. Good Luck, TomC | ||
| Jason Simons (Bigblock01)
Registered Member Username: Bigblock01 Post Number: 34 Registered: 6-2008 Posted From: 209.164.238.7 Rating: N/A |
Thanks for all the input still not shure what I'll use. Tom the unit I've looked at is the dual hose with the new freon. | ||
| FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
Registered Member Username: Fast_fred Post Number: 1241 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 99.156.68.151  Rating: N/A |
If your wallet can handle the hit there are marine units that are really pleasant to live with. Carrier and others make units that either chill or heat water. The water is circulated into each section (or cabin) and has its own thermostat. Advantage , about 5X the heat for the same electric as a resistance element. Electric consumption air cond is low as each compressor is multiple speed and only as many run as needed. Biggest advantage in repair the cooling units are R&R back to the dealer , only connections are electric and water hose , no messing with freon. Fantastic to live with IF you can pay for the setup. FF | ||
| Tim Brandt (Timb)
Registered Member Username: Timb Post Number: 547 Registered: 10-2003 Posted From: 66.165.176.62  Rating: N/A |
Fred do you have a model or link for that system. I had assumed all marine units required raw water exchange to cool | ||
| George M. Todd (George_todd)
Registered Member Username: George_todd Post Number: 1074 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 99.62.7.26 Rating: N/A |
Tim, Although not clear, that is what he is talking about when he says " ...chill or heat water." They are correctly known as water source heat pumps, and heat water to cool air in the summer, and chill water to heat air in the winter. G | ||
| FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
Registered Member Username: Fast_fred Post Number: 1244 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 99.156.68.151 Rating: N/A |
"I had assumed all marine units required raw water exchange to cool" Since the water supply is unlimited that is the first boat choice , But, the smaller companies custom build just what you want , air cooled , water cooled , whatever. http://www.oceanbreezeac.com/ Might be worth a try. Especially if you need to heat bays in winter , or have a real use for Zones , or are creating or paying for the power. Beware below about 35F outside or so, the heat doesn't work. FF | ||
| FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
Registered Member Username: Fast_fred Post Number: 1245 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 99.156.68.151 Rating: N/A |
http://www.oceanbreezeac.com/motorcoach.php FF | ||
| Tim Brandt (Timb)
Registered Member Username: Timb Post Number: 549 Registered: 10-2003 Posted From: 66.165.176.62 Rating: N/A |
Thanks Fred I wouldn't really need much in the heat department as my FLX has a separate furnace but it would be nice to ditch the roof airs and replace with some sort of basement air that uses zones if it can keep up. Hmmm I wonder If it would fit in my spare tire bay...... | ||
| Bryce Gaston (Busted_knuckle)
Registered Member Username: Busted_knuckle Post Number: 296 Registered: 1-2006 Posted From: 74.226.103.113 Rating: N/A |
I have personally seen the set up Bob Glines did on his '89 Prevost and as with everything else he did, it is slick and works well! FWIW |
