| Author | Message | ||
| joe shelton (Littlewind) (64.91.164.236)
Rating: |
My 5 year old Norcold 683 worked pretty good for the last 1.5 years. Last trip it would not cool good enugh on propane although the freezer worked fine. On 120 vac both the freezer and fridg worked fine. I found nothing addressing "not cold enough" in the Norcold repiar guide. The guide only lists 'not cooling' problems. What gives? joe 4106-2119 | ||
| Marc Bourget (209.142.38.81) Rating: N/A |
is it possible that the seal is leaking on the refirgerator portion. When the unit is on 120V it may have sufficient cooling capacity to overcome the leak and thus appear "fine" but not so if the unit on propane doesn't put out enough cooling. What about cleaning the coils (if they're accessible, to make sure the unit can operate at optimum Onward and Upward | ||
| two dogs (66.90.222.129) Rating: N/A |
might have a soot problem...take that little flap off & blow a air hose in there..the plate that's hot when it's on propane.. | ||
| joe shelton (Littlewind) (64.91.164.236)
Rating: N/A |
I called Norcold customer service. They were great. 800-543-1219. He told me to do 4 things: 1. check propane pressure @ fridg. (11" of h20 min) 2. clean propane orifice w/alcohol 3. clean burner box 4. clean flue | ||
| Tony H. (Bluegrass) (216.207.2.104)
Rating: N/A |
I have just the opposite problem with my Norcold Refrigerator, It gets too cold and freezes everything, and you cant turn It down It just keeps on freezing until you turn it off. | ||
| Peter E (Sdibaja) (200.56.111.58)
Rating: N/A |
You might be getting too much heat on the cooling coils. See if you can brush or vacuum the lint off. Also, you may need some sort of fan in the back in the cabinet area, computer fans are real cheap and use little power, come in a wide range of voltages… 12 or 120 AC or DC. Peter | ||
| Bus Jock (4.47.6.215)
Rating: N/A |
Tony, For over cooling it's most likely the thermistor. Just unplug it from the board and check the resistance with an Ohm meter. It tells in the book what it is suposed to be. A new one isn't much $$ and easy to install. If the thermistor is OK then the control board needs looked at. That would be a good time to install the "Dinasoar board" Jock Fugitt | ||
| tfones (Chapter7) (159.49.254.12)
Rating: N/A |
Joe, The most common problem is spider mites. They love the smell and spin webs in the orfice. They are so small you can't see the web. Use shop air and blow out the burner and orfice. This will cure the problem 90% of the time. Be sure to also check for nests at the top of the chimney. If this does not cure it then thermostat is bad. The flame should be strong and sound like a blow torch. It's a good idea for those that having working frigs now to listen and hear what a proper flame sounds like. If they have a problem in the future then they will have a referance. FYI, Running on gas is more efficent than electric (More heat) Likewise in hot weather running on electric is better becuase of less heat in back of the frig. The heat you feel on the back lower coils is the heat being removed from inside the fridge. Tony, Yours is simple...like jock said, it's a thermostat. tf | ||
| joe shelton (Littlewind) (165.121.128.14)
Rating: N/A |
tf You say "If this does not cure it then thermostat is bad." Wouldn't a bad thermostat also cause no cooling or low cooling while powered on 120vac? Joe 4106-2119 | ||
| tfones (Chapter7) (67.41.35.24)
Rating: N/A |
Joe, On this model you are correct..sorry did not look at your model. The advice from Norcold should solve your problem. Gas pressure at 11 inches and no obstructions in orfice or chimney and baffle in place. On the older models they used a combo thermostat (Elec. & Gas) two different thermostats in one unit. And they are not cheap! Tony, If you have the thermostat circuit and thermister you can check resistances or you can go back 6" from the plug cut the wires and install a 40K ohm 1/4 watt resistor on the end of the two wires. Turn the frig to the cold and then to the coldest position and the unit should come on. If not the PC board is bad. The Dinasoar board is better than the OEM or was 5 years ago. tf | ||
| Henry R. Bergman, Jr. (Henryofcj) (209.210.116.27)
Rating: N/A |
Hello Joe; Anyone who owns a 4106 has my respect. What a rotrod!! If all else fails and everything else is OK, try running a dedicated "push" positioned muffin fan to positive vent that hot running flue. This solved about the same problem for us years ago in our solar homestead. Too much solar gain by the icebox resulting.... .....in lack of a natural draft occuring up the exhaust flue. Coaches get very hot in the summer even when parked in the shade. You also might have a local weird situation where the natural upward flow of hot gas from the flue is being interrupted by.... ....Rolling down the road....placement of other appliances....AC location/operation fighting /preventing the reefer flue operation... Goood luck. Henry of CJ | ||
| joe shelton (Littlewind) (165.121.144.234)
Rating: N/A |
Henry of CJ, What is a rotrod? And please don't say anything bad about my bus; he/she/it is listening and like me, very sensitive. Joe 4106-2119 | ||
| Henry R. Bergman, Jr. (Henryofcj) (63.224.197.10)
Rating: N/A |
A ROT ROD is that mysterious second rare cousin to that world famous well know KING of the coaches, that neat, FAST, great handling GM 4106 HOT ROD powered by the best Detroit Detroit ever made, that super duper 318 (at least, maybe a little more) 8V71N which can be pumped up to an easy 350 with N90 injectors and stuff all stuffed into a great chassis which weighs next to nothin' that can do burn outs every day and goes at least 80 mph with the right rear end and with a Jake they are sooosss cool to drive.....  Henry of CJ. | ||
| RJ Long (Rjlong) (24.127.74.29)
Rating: N/A |
Awww, Henry. . . you just brought a tear to my coach's LF windshield. . . 8^) RJ PD4106-2784 Fresno CA | ||
| Jim Stacy (12.87.109.222)
Rating: N/A |
If a frig cools well on AC and poorly on propane, the first place to check is for rust and debris on top of the burner. After a frig is more than 2 years old this debris from the heat tube will fall and partially block the flame. The flame appears to be working, but doesn't put out enough btu's. The second place is the orifice check for blockages. Third would be the 11" water column propane pressure. Most units with this symptom are quickly fixed with a flash of compressed air directed at the burner. Obviously, good gravity flow of the heat up and out the roof is critical for good cooling, but that would effect AC function as well. FWIW. Jim Stacy |
