| Author |
Message |
mark pool (Mark) (66.43.13.73)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, July 12, 2003 - 12:07 am: | |
Hi
I just got the new steel sheets today. Its 18 GA galvanized. I had all the metal panels sheared to the proper sizes.
My question is what is the secret to attatching the metal without getting alot of excessive warping and buckling?
I'm figuring on starting @ the middle and working out in all directions. Should I drill oversized holes in the skin to allow for slight re-positioning?
Also, I have checked everywhere here locally, and can't get Sicaflex 252. Anybody know of a source?
Thanks alot!
Mark
'75 Gillig 636D |
jmaxwell (66.42.92.10)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, July 12, 2003 - 12:37 pm: | |
Just finished the same project on my Neoplan. 2 14' panels, 22 ga. galalum metal. Mine have a 6" radius curve in the top 14" up onto the roof. Scaffolded and recruited 3 able assistants. I would not drill the holes oversize. Also, if u can't find sikaflex, HD has the PL4000 construction urethane adhesive and it works very good. It has become my adhesive of choice after using it for a few yrs. The PL urethane caulking is also my choice. Did it in mid 80's, low 90's weather, full sunlight. Glued up the top, put the sheet in place, secured with #8 metal stud screws at the roofline (which will be hidden under the drip rail), then reached under and glued all the framing underneath to the bottom of the window line, rolled the sheet down and braced it off against the wall of the bus barn, riveted the bottom with a small overlap of the mid-section siding. The rivets will be covered with a trim rail that runs the perimeter of the bus under the windows. Everything worked good and there is no distortion in 110 degree, full sun or at 60 dgr night, so I guess it worked. The adhesive is now cured and is looking good for holding. Also, urethane foamed at all inside framing for extra holding strength. Main thing, especially w/ the heavier 18 ga., have plenty of help to hold it in place while u get it set in place and the 1st anchors installed. |
Eagle 10 (24.198.204.209)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, July 12, 2003 - 8:06 pm: | |
Mark,
Check with International Bus and Parts in Florida as I recently bought a case of Sikaflex (spelling)? from them at about $8 a tube. It works great. |
SLO (Slo) (24.205.227.122)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, July 12, 2003 - 8:55 pm: | |
It is spelled sikaflex, so Eagle 10 you got it right.
As for the original poster, check with the closest metal building general contractor. We buy it by the case, and seems like it is alot cheaper than 8 per tube, but I'm not sure.
SLO |
jmaxwell (66.42.92.23)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, July 13, 2003 - 1:36 am: | |
I can buy it locally at a contractor supply house, retail pricing(even though they claim to be giving a discount) and not known for good prices, at $6.10 for the 10 oz. tube, abt. 10% cheaper by the case. On the other hand, the PL4000 is $5.97 for the large tube, 29 oz I believe and it holds every bit as good as Sikaflex but it does cure harder than Sikaflex. |
two dogs (67.30.23.51)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, July 13, 2003 - 12:10 pm: | |
I'd pre-drill holes in the window skins, also, I'd run a "d.a." over the surface to be painted, before I put them on the bus,and,I'd wash down with vinegar before painting,you did say galvinized didn't you ?(I'm going to paint "before" I put them up)....but...everybody has their own way of doing things |
two dogs (67.30.23.51)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, July 13, 2003 - 12:20 pm: | |
and ,YES, start in the middle & work out, like tightening a head down,and, contact cement is lots cheaper,& good enough for 40 years of your wife,washing & putting hot pans on formica. I'm going to go with 1/8" pop rivits & 9/64 holes |
jmaxwell (66.42.92.8)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, July 13, 2003 - 3:31 pm: | |
Two Dogs: I disagree that contact cement is good enough. Most of it will release when subjected to high heat, and the skin of a bus gets real hot. Also, any that I have seen or used is to light bodied thin) to be effective on such a large surface that is irregular and non-existent underneath. |
Marc Bourget (209.142.38.81)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, July 14, 2003 - 10:47 am: | |
Two Dogs,
Read your comments on pop rivets and 9/64th holes
When I've done these "in place" forming/riveting operations, I would pre-drill with #40 then fix and place. The smaller #40 hole was inspected to see if I could "bias" the #30 drill closer to the center of the target hole. I also wouldn't drill larger if I could avoid it. Part of upsetting a rivet involves expanding the shaft of the rivet while forming the head. You're working against yourself here and it may be fixed by my #40 - #30 step drilling.
"Thunk about it" as Dave Galey says.
Onward and Upward
Marc Bourget |
two dogs (67.30.23.8)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, July 14, 2003 - 1:49 pm: | |
guess nobody likes my ideas....9/64 is just a fraction bigger than a 1/8...I've found that the pop rivit doesn't go into a 1/8 very well....that's ok.....this is a discussion board, ya' don't have to agree with me |
Scott Whitney (66.82.9.47)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, July 14, 2003 - 2:07 pm: | |
Isn't 1/8" a little small for skins? I am using 3/16" interlock (looks similar to buck when finished) SS rivets from FSI. A Harbor Freight cheapo air riveter is worth its weight in gold for these things. But then I am using Paint Lock metal in a lighter guage than most, too. I am leaving all my structural rivets in place and making my skins fit just barely outside of the window holes. Somewhat preserves the "bus look" by retaining the rounded parallelgram shapes where the windows used to be. (also a hecka lot eaiser than drilling out a thousand buck rivets. . .)
Scott |
two dogs (67.30.23.47)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, July 14, 2003 - 6:03 pm: | |
you guys would argue if you were hung with a new rope |
John Biundo (Jbiundo) (68.120.193.120)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, July 14, 2003 - 7:18 pm: | |
Hmmmm... hardly an expert, but from the research I've done, I'd be leary about using pop rivets. They do not provide any structural strength.
I used structural steel (pull type) rivets AND sikaflex. Either would probably hold, but pop rivets + contact cement would leave me sleepless or having nightmares about watching my side skins blow down the freeway in my sideview mirrors. |