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Message |
Roger Baughman (Roger)
Registered Member Username: Roger
Post Number: 220 Registered: 11-2006 Posted From: 69.232.75.97
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Rating:  Votes: 2 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, October 27, 2010 - 4:25 am: | |
I ran out of fuel while driving home from a short trip today 6 miles from home. The guage didn't read emty but close. The good part is I learned how to start the bus after doing so. My progressive insurance road side assistance arived in Valley Center from Los Angeles in 90 minutes. I thought this might help someone else here. First I put 10 gallons in the tank befor the mechanic arived. 2. Then the mechanic/tow truck driver took off the cover on the duel fuel Filter/water seperater and filled that all the way to the top with diesel, then put the cover back on and tighted the nut. 3. Then he removed the fittings from the top and the side of next fuel filter as there was not enough room to get under the bus. he poured diesel in the top (very slowly) while letting the air come out the side opening. 4. At the back of the engine, there is a fuel line that comes from the third fuel filter to the engine (8v71), There is a fitting that alows the line to make a 90 degree turn comming up and then going horazonal into the engine. The machanic removed the line going into the 90 degree fitting and turned the fitting 90 degrees so the opening would be streight up. He then fasioned a hose and a 8 oz plastic bottle full of diesel so the diesel would drain into the engine. He the ask me to start the engine, which it did right away. He left the engine running untill most of the fuel in the plastic bottle was gone. The he ask me to stop the engine before the fuel ran out of the bottle. I stopped the engine by pressing on the lever on top right near the long fan belt. He removed the bottle and hose, returned the fuel line to it's running possition and ask me to start the engine again, which it did right away. 5. The mechanic ask me to returned to rear starting to front starting then go to the drivers seat and start the engine and increased the engine speed to about 1500 RPM for about two minutes. So there it is. I didn't like running out of fuel but I sure am glade to know how to restart my engine afterwards. Roger (Message edited by roger on October 27, 2010) (Message edited by roger on October 27, 2010) |
Austin Scott Davis (Zimtok)
Registered Member Username: Zimtok
Post Number: 450 Registered: 9-2006 Posted From: 173.166.209.1
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Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, October 27, 2010 - 9:22 am: | |
Good info to have... Hope I never have to use it.... . |
H3-40 (Ace)
Registered Member Username: Ace
Post Number: 1099 Registered: 10-2004 Posted From: 75.216.201.93
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Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, October 27, 2010 - 9:31 am: | |
That's good but to prevent a mechanic from having to come out and do that, go buy yourself a small bug sprayer. The kind that you have to pump up by hand. Attach a Schrader valve to the hose and attach that to the fitting on the side of your filter. Fill the sprayer with fuel and pump it up. Start your engine and after it starts, simply un-do everything and go about your trip! Works for me, not that I have had to use it but when I had it in the shop, the mechanic there showed me this and how to put it all together. They use this technique after doing work of any kind where they have to loose the prime! |
John & Barb Tesser (Bigrigger)
Registered Member Username: Bigrigger
Post Number: 467 Registered: 9-2007 Posted From: 96.42.5.35
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Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, October 27, 2010 - 10:45 am: | |
I carry a small piece of innertube cut out with the valve stem left on it. I put that over the fuel tank filler neck and seal it with a nylon zip tie. Carefully put about 5 pounds of air pressure ( a bicycle pump is best) and with the tank under pressure, crank the engine. It has always worked for me with my Detroits on semi truck. Just be careful not to use too much pressure and blow up the fuel tank. I sure there are a million "OSHA" safety reasons why you shouldn't do this, but it is a easy fix for a dead Detroit. John |
RJ Long (Rjlong)
Registered Member Username: Rjlong
Post Number: 1730 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 71.195.124.20
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Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, October 27, 2010 - 11:30 am: | |
Roger - An even better method is to never trust the fuel gauge! Fuel at 500 mile intervals and you'll never have the problem again - BTDT FWIW & HTH. . .
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tony denny (Papatony)
Registered Member Username: Papatony
Post Number: 1 Registered: 10-2010 Posted From: 74.206.82.239
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, October 27, 2010 - 12:19 pm: | |
The older Cat. engines had a pump filter just for this purpouse and it can be installed in line with your filters eleminating the problem and give you an extra filter. I know the filter was on 80's models that is where i got mine. |
Bruce Henderson (Oonrahnjay)
Registered Member Username: Oonrahnjay
Post Number: 606 Registered: 8-2004 Posted From: 70.60.102.61
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Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, October 27, 2010 - 1:00 pm: | |
My 6-cylinder 4-stroke diesel had its fuel pump run off a cam on the timing shaft to the injection pump. Set the engine so that the pump lever is off the cam and you can pump it by hand. I've found that I can put a dry filter on it (between the tank and the pump) and fill the filter and draw fuel to the injection pump in less than 20 seconds. |
Van (Van)
Registered Member Username: Van
Post Number: 117 Registered: 7-2008 Posted From: 68.108.81.25
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Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, October 27, 2010 - 1:09 pm: | |
Installed electric fuel pump for this reason, to prime engine.Been installed two years now, and only had to use it once Changed out filters, flip switch and Voila! No need for a box load of stuff to prime the engine. FWIW |
les marston (Les_marston)
Registered Member Username: Les_marston
Post Number: 145 Registered: 1-2010 Posted From: 68.151.225.213
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, October 27, 2010 - 4:22 pm: | |
MCI was smart enough to put a priming pump in the fuel tanks for the 60 series. Knowing that I will never run this coach out of fuel. I second the idea of fueling every 500 miles and not letting the fuel get to low, remember it is the return fuel that cools the injectors and if you don't have enough fuel in the tank it can get ... To say the least warm Bet you never run out again. I only ran the old 5 out once Les |
FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
Registered Member Username: Fast_fred
Post Number: 1342 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 99.173.23.73
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Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Thursday, October 28, 2010 - 6:46 am: | |
I disagree with constant refuling which leaves over half the aged fuel in the tank. Ashphaltine is what fuel reverts to when aged , dark , hard clumps the filter easily gets , but that can plug the filter. My Way , is to fuel to the brim , and use my 12 years of fuel log to be able to get to the point that 110G or when I feel lucky 125 G or fuel can be added to top the tank. Since the camper sometimes goes with only the monthly PM 100 miles , the fuel can age for months. Heat adds to the formation of Ashphaltine , so 120G of fresh fuel may help keep the tank clear. FF |
David Evans (Dmd)
Registered Member Username: Dmd
Post Number: 516 Registered: 10-2004 Posted From: 173.77.223.202
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Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Thursday, October 28, 2010 - 8:07 am: | |
But if you keep your tank fuller wont you be keeping your fuel cooler? We run her down to a quarter tank on longer runs like to Fla but for short hops we always refuel/top her up, in NJ on the way back to the barn feel like its $ in the tank/bank |
john w. roan (Chessie4905)
Registered Member Username: Chessie4905
Post Number: 1986 Registered: 10-2003 Posted From: 71.58.71.157
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Rating:  Votes: 1 (Vote!) | Posted on Thursday, October 28, 2010 - 6:56 pm: | |
Filters took care of all of the crap in the 50's and 60's. The fuel available now is a lot cleaner with the Govt. requiring replacement of in ground tanks. Your crud and slime is accumulated from 30 to 50 years of use. If you have a concern about this, remove and clean your tank,s and save replacing fuel filters so often and add some biocide occasionally. BTW, filling tank when almost empty will stir up all the built up crap so your filters can suck up the residue unless you have the luxury of allowing the coach to set without running overnight. Remember people avoiding getting a fuel fill up when the semi is filling the in ground tank at the service plaza when you pull in? How many change fuel filters at the same time they change oil, or change them every year? Some add a pressure sensor to the filter to signal when the filter is starting to plug. |
FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
Registered Member Username: Fast_fred
Post Number: 1345 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 66.82.9.11
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Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Monday, November 01, 2010 - 7:36 am: | |
"The fuel available now is a lot cleaner with the Govt.requiring replacement of in ground tanks." But what you create in Your tank , just by sitting is still a hassle. "Your crud and slime is accumulated from 30 to 50 years of use." Unfortunatly the Gov decided that up to 5% "bio fuel" could be used to dilute the fuel , and it DOES NOT have to be posted at the pump. This bio crap is a fantastic dissolver and cleaner of all the 50 years of gunk that could be in a poorly maintained tank. By now most gunk is probably long gone , so the question is stopping the fuel from dieing. On boats there are 2 methods, Goop to put any water in suspension , where a filter will catch it (emulsifier). Goop to drop the water to the bottom of the tank (de emulsifier) . Depending on how easy it is to pull as plug or pump from a sump low point ,, OR change filters on your coach would be the decider. We have had great luck with a hand utility 1/2 inch pump, and long plastic tubing to clear (mostly ) tanks with no bottom drain. FF |