| Author | Message | ||
| H3-40 (Ace)
Registered Member Username: Ace Post Number: 1100 Registered: 10-2004 Posted From: 108.118.116.112  Rating: |
Took off heading north to Hoboken and it has NOT been a fun trip to say the least! Couldn't run over 60 mph without the temps soaring in the high 190's. Not what I thought a new radiator and hoses would do. Going thru downtown Jacksonville in the middle lane, semi's on both sides and all if a sudden Both cel and sel come on. Not a good feeling! Suddenly they go off and I continue on. Shortly thereafter, the whole bus gave a hiccup and both lights appear again and they aren't going off. As I pull off the road and come to a stop, they go off. The bus still running, I check the gauges and the silverleaf which I have learned not to trust and all is good. Oil pressure was at 50 lbs right before lights and 15 at idle. Water temp was a steady 193 for miles and even when idling, it went down to 186 and was dropping. It appears, from what the 2 experienced other bussers I was following said was that... After I installed my radiator, I didn't "burp" it ir get all the air iut. It tooj 180 miles to hopefully do this. The hiccup and lights we think was the air bubble which by now is steam suddenly went by a sensor and sent things going wild. After this 3rd time, yes we stopped 3 times foe this, the temps never went above 187 and I could run in the mid 70 mph range without the temps rising. Going to top it off this morning and hope all the air is out. They say that after being run at those temps and then cooling down over night that the air if any left should go to the top and escape. Let's hope so! Maybe then I can run wuth them rather than them waiting on me. A true learning experience for me to say the least! | ||
| FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
Registered Member Username: Fast_fred Post Number: 1341 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 99.173.23.73  Rating: N/A |
They say that after being run at those temps and then cooling down over night that the air if any left should go to the top and escape. Perhaps , but the air in the pocket could stay right where it is. Having the surge tank really full might help. It could also be a different problem, the engine cooling passages could be dirty with old anti- freez slyme or hard FL water that hasn't been cleaned out properly . This can cause a localized over heat ,and a shut down. FF | ||
| H3-40 (Ace)
Registered Member Username: Ace Post Number: 1101 Registered: 10-2004 Posted From: 108.118.116.112 Rating: N/A |
Yea we/they thought about that but since there never was any prior over heating issues, they ruled that out. It has a surge tank and will know more today, after breakfast. All the coolant fluid was changed and duscarded for new too. | ||
| FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
Registered Member Username: Fast_fred Post Number: 1343 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 99.173.23.73 Rating: N/A |
"All the coolant fluid was changed and duscarded for new too." ALL genuine diesel antifreez has special addatives that coat the internals with a usually "Green Slyme" . The purpose of the coating is to reduce the erosion of the outside of the cylinder walls from cavitation. The slyme gets eroded , not the outside of the cylinder, BUT the downside is the slyme will keep getting thicker as time goes by.In the entire cooling system , not only on the cylinder walls. That is why DA Book requires the coolant system to not only be drained , but to be CLEANED with a 2 part cleaner. Every 2 or 3 years . The folks with 2 strokes get by with car antifreez as their cylinders are in block sleves , so the cavitation wear is minor , and Prestone is OK. A more modern engine needs real diesel antifreez. | ||
| H3-40 (Ace)
Registered Member Username: Ace Post Number: 1102 Registered: 10-2004 Posted From: 108.118.116.112 Rating: N/A |
Yep, gotta agree with that too and to add, mine aint no modern engine. It's a good running two stroke. Wish I had a newer four stroke but unless the economy changes ir the Florida lotto comes thru, I'm stuck with what I have. | ||
| marvin pack (Gomer)
Registered Member Username: Gomer Post Number: 1034 Registered: 3-2007 Posted From: 71.55.1.12  Rating: N/A |
Re-done an eagle cooling system and filled it up, ran it awhile,rechecked everything and put about another 3 qts of antifreeze mixture in and ran it again and just when the owner picked it up it overheated and done what your done.Burped bucked and overheated [195] refilled,ran it again added some more and finally it burped out the air. sometimes get scary but they will do it. Good Luck ACE! You should have come up by my house in Ocala LOL Gomer | ||
| Bruce Henderson (Oonrahnjay)
Registered Member Username: Oonrahnjay Post Number: 607 Registered: 8-2004 Posted From: 70.60.102.61  Rating: N/A |
There's a foot-tall 1" vertical copper pipe on my bus right at the defroster radiator (just below the windshield) with a bleed valve on the top of it. If you break a hose clamp on a radiator hose and have to refill a fair amount of coolant, you'll have a 3-4 quart bubble in the cooling system if you don't bleed the air out at that defroster valve. My bus will eventually collect air in a bubble in the top of the coolant manifold where the shutdown sensor is, resulting in a loud buzzer but a very quiet engine. Don't ask me how I know. North-American built buses (or maybe some of them) may have something similar. | ||
| Luvrbus (Luvrbus)
Registered Member Username: Luvrbus Post Number: 964 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 74.33.49.149 Rating: N/A |
Ace if have factory heat turn the heater on it will remove the air good luck | ||
| Jim Wilke (Jim Bob) (Pd41044039)
Registered Member Username: Pd41044039 Post Number: 572 Registered: 2-2001 Posted From: 68.213.217.58  Rating: N/A |
What Fred should have said is " Series 71 DD engines have block sleeves (dry liners) and Series 92 have wet sleeves." You guys are both right. | ||
| H3-40 (Ace)
Registered Member Username: Ace Post Number: 1103 Registered: 10-2004 Posted From: 173.155.164.213 Rating: N/A |
Well after the cel and sel incident in J-ville, the bus finally burpwd and ran flawlessly after topping off the radiator the next morning. It took about 1.5 gallons of coolant and after sitting in Hoboken, checked it before leaving and another gallon. This is probably overfilling it and is being blown out but at least I know all the air is out. On the way home, it ran a constant 186-188 going 65mph and up to 192 at 70-75 mph. One time it got up to 196 while catching up to the others in front when I got stopped at a light. It came eigjt back down pretty quick. Never used the sprayer one time afyer the burp! Friensa say this scenario is perfectly normal and I'm good to go! Had a great time at the rally with some of my greatest friends and wouldn't have wanted to spend a birthday any differently!  | ||
| Debbie and Joe Cannarozzi (Joe_camper)
Registered Member Username: Joe_camper Post Number: 321 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 99.23.129.199  Rating: N/A |
Ace I have some friends who full time they recently left a DD service center with new exhaust manifolds that when installed allowed the antifreeze to drain out. A stud came out alllowing it to drain. DD did not get it all back in before the overflow tank was full. He got about 10 mile down the road and cooked it. DD actually denied that this can even happen. In the end they forgave him half of the 7000 repair nice folks uh Where is a good place to burp them, the thermostat housings? | ||
| H3-40 (Ace)
Registered Member Username: Ace Post Number: 1104 Registered: 10-2004 Posted From: 69.96.13.232 Rating: N/A |
That's too bad and a shame it had to happen! I was told that you can either get a crossover pipe that already has a petcock in it or you can take the crossover pipe out and put one in. The crossover pipe is the pipe that goes between the two thermostats OR you can find the highest place in the system and bleed it there. While I sat on the side of the road, I simply loosened both short pieces of hose at the top of the thermostats and let it pour out while leaving the engine run. You could see the air coming out with the coolant as I was adding NEW coolant to the system! We left a bit of coolant on the ground but I had no other choice at that time! Had I been where I could drain it, I would have done so! The next time I have to do service work on the system, I WILL change the pipe or add a fitting for the bleeding technique. | ||
| Luvrbus (Luvrbus)
Registered Member Username: Luvrbus Post Number: 965 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 74.33.49.149 Rating: N/A |
That crossover pipe with a petcock is a waste of time DD hasn's done that in years ,on the top thremo housing on the left side on the very top is a plug to install a petcock that is the highest point on the engine some have a compressor water supply there just tee off if your has one and install a valve as you probably know that cross over pipe is a bitch to R and R good luck | ||
| H3-40 (Ace)
Registered Member Username: Ace Post Number: 1105 Registered: 10-2004 Posted From: 75.204.3.199 Rating: N/A |
I wouldn't say the cross over pipe was such a pain. It was actually pretty easy once I got the hoses loose and slid to one side. The pipe has enough room to move to one side or the other and then come right out. The hardest pipe to install was the top radiator pipe that went all the way from the rear to the front. Not the front of the bus, but the front of the engine compartment. As for the left side thermostat housing having a fitting? All engines must be different because both of mine are identical with NO fittings of any kind. | ||
| Luvrbus (Luvrbus)
Registered Member Username: Luvrbus Post Number: 966 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 74.33.49.149 Rating: N/A |
Should have a casting number 5100771 on the left never saw one with a different number from the 8V71 forward. Glad you don't have to remove the fuel lines to get the cross over out on most you do,they are a real pain on a MCI,want me to send you the top housing for the left I have plenty only cost you the freight good luck (Message edited by luvrbus on November 01, 2010) | ||
| H3-40 (Ace)
Registered Member Username: Ace Post Number: 1106 Registered: 10-2004 Posted From: 108.118.13.192 Rating: N/A |
Well heck yea! That would make it a lot easier for when I have to do it again. | ||
| H3-40 (Ace)
Registered Member Username: Ace Post Number: 1107 Registered: 10-2004 Posted From: 99.205.66.99 Rating: N/A |
Well since it isnt raining today like yesterday, I thought I would go out and do a once over on the bus since our last trip and I found 3 lug nut covers gone. Not too costly! I found the oil level never moved from where it was before we left. That's a good sign and low and behold, I found a (the) bleeder fitting clifford mentioned on the left thermostat housing. Better late than never! At least now I know where it is and what to do with it! All in all, the bus, engine, all fluids and me survived about 10 hours or maybe more run time. Of course, these were not consectutive hours but still, they add up. Looks like I will have to break down in the near future and buy new house batteries. Checking the dates, I found these to be 2004's. Still holding up good but like most of us, they are bulging just a tad. When in Hoboken, I picked up a good used set of chrome mirrors. The mounting base doesnt quite fit my radious. Once on, they have a slight gap. They are marked 7.5 r. Hoping this is the radious. Does anyone have or know of a pair that would fit that would be willing to make a deal? I can't use mine, they are painted and the new mirrors will not interchange. Thanks... Ace |
