| Author |
Message |
M & C Jenkins (Gaelicforce) (67.168.49.157)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, July 29, 2003 - 8:41 pm: | |
Is the accelarator cable casing in one, two, or three pieces? Can it be replaced? Where can it be gotten? |
mel 4104 (208.181.100.33)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, July 29, 2003 - 9:03 pm: | |
there is a better way and that is go to an air throttle, you can get all the parts except the bracket that fits on top of the gov. from you local truck wrecking yard or parts store , some people still like the old style cable ones which is ok as i still a horse . i just don8t want to have to look after one(horse or cable throttle) |
FAST FRED (67.75.111.226)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, July 30, 2003 - 6:09 am: | |
LUKE at US Coach has them 1-888 COACH 34 and there easy to replace every 40 years or so.
After pulling the old cable (one long piece , fill the housing with old diesel a few times & blow the old grease out.
Then slather the new cably with teflon grease (that doesnt change viscosity at -50F ) and reinstall.
Wait 50 years and repeat, but be sure to KEEP the old cable should you find a fellow BUSNUT stuck on the road.
Much finer controll for shifting for a 4 speed than air throttle.
Works for me!
FAST FRED |
Jim Wilke (12.46.52.74)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, July 30, 2003 - 10:41 am: | |
I agree with Fast Fred. Works well for me too. The pedal effort of a properly maintained cable is very little & you can increase or decrease just a few RPMs to mesh gears.
The old coaches are reliable 'cause they're very simple. Remember, you are also adding soft parts at each end & 40 feet of air tubing. Why does everyone want to make things less reliable?
Jim-Bob |
Jim Ashworth (Jimnh) (172.148.162.178)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, July 31, 2003 - 8:28 am: | |
If you read the original post, he's looking for info for replacing the CASING, not the inner cable. I have no experience here, so maybe someone can jump in with the correct answer to help Mr. Jenkins.
Jim |
Jim Wilke (12.46.52.74)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, August 01, 2003 - 1:53 pm: | |
Casing is brass tubing. It comes in about 3-4' length sections. It is connected by special large bore flare unions. Usually the rear section would wear out first 'cause there is a large "S" bend in it & that's where the heat deteriorates the lubricant most. I would like to know if that length is the same so I could replace with of the non worn straight sections. The grease was turned to hard carbon in mine when I serviced it.
Jim-Bob |
Glenn-04 (162.39.206.12)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, August 01, 2003 - 4:10 pm: | |
Jim, I had a problem with the brass casing also.
I think you're going to find that the casing is not a standard size. Mine was worn in the rear near the "S bend".
I ended up taking it apart and cutting out the bad place. I then got a piece of "metal brake lining" and sliding it over the original tubing and brazing it together.
Now I'm not saying this is best way, but it has worked for me for about 1 1/2 years with no problems.
Glenn-04
Tallulah Falls, GA. |
Jim W (64.12.96.235)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, August 02, 2003 - 4:21 pm: | |
Well I know the cable part won't fit through regular flare fittings but I thought the casing/tubing was std size. I'm wondering if the LENGTH of the rear section is the same as any of the others so I could get a straight section from a junker & bend it to replace the rear section.
I DO know that it is a real pain to remove the rear section without removing the access panel in the bottom of the rear set. The connector is near the top of the rear bulkhead near the shifter bellcrank. I ended up crawling up between the eng & next bulkhead (a space so narrow you can't raise your arms over your head once you are in!) & taking 2 sections out.
Jim-Bob |