| Author | Message | ||
| tony denny (Papatony)
Registered Member Username: Papatony Post Number: 9 Registered: 10-2010 Posted From: 74.206.82.239 Rating: N/A |
What is a good polish for the 4106 alum. to use with a buffer. | ||
| Jack Fids (Jack_fids)
Registered Member Username: Jack_fids Post Number: 241 Registered: 1-2009 Posted From: 69.171.161.47  Rating: N/A |
You ask this knowing full well of course that GM Clear Anodized the Aluminum to protect it & keep it bright & that polishing the skin will remove that Anodizing & leave the skin of your "Corvette" open to attack by the elements ....right? | ||
| Dallas Farnworth (Dallas)
Registered Member Username: Dallas Post Number: 145 Registered: 7-2004 Posted From: 75.91.207.168  Rating: N/A |
I thought you were looking for a translation! A. noun 1. autobus 2. autokar 3. omnibus 4. wóz B. verb 1. jechac autobusem C. adjective 1. autobusowy | ||
| tony denny (Papatony)
Registered Member Username: Papatony Post Number: 10 Registered: 10-2010 Posted From: 74.206.82.239 Rating: N/A |
I know about alum. but i have been using linseed oil to bring out the luster and shine i just wanted to know if there was some other way to polish it | ||
| Bob McSeveney (Scout70)
Registered Member Username: Scout70 Post Number: 7 Registered: 8-2008 Posted From: 146.129.252.126 Rating: N/A |
I have a MCI 5B. Did MCI so the same? | ||
| thomas flocks (Taflocks)
Registered Member Username: Taflocks Post Number: 395 Registered: 9-2009 Posted From: 67.253.124.108 Rating: N/A |
i have been trying to polish it with nuvite at $50 a tub and it seems no better then 3m or McGuires. you need a wool buffer about 1000 rpm or less. i had the whole bus soda blasted so there is no paint or anodizing on her anymore.. my goal is to have it shine like a 1950's airstream. | ||
| C. K.. Sparks (Kozycade)
Registered Member Username: Kozycade Post Number: 42 Registered: 7-2010 Posted From: 71.161.43.196 Rating: N/A |
Tom Your best bet is to use Polishing compound 4oz bars, a buffing wheel, and elbow grease. Use 3" ,5", 8" wheels have worked best for me. Since you are starting fresh you can eliminate a couple of steps and jump right into the White or Green sticks. Any decent truck stop will have them or you can try PJ Tools online. Contrary to what others have said, Do not use Jewelers Rouge which is for soft metals. Types of sticks available are: 1. Black emery- is a course compound and is primarily used for cutting and preparing materials to be buffed out for a mirror finish. 2. Brown Tripoli- is a polishing compound which is typically used for cutting and removing scratches from aluminum and stainless steel. This compound is also commonly used for bringing out a high luster on wood. 3. White rouge- is courser than jewelers rouge and is typically used for removing deep scratches from soft metals or finishing aluminum. 4. Green- is a formulated Stainless Steel compound which is especially designed to finish stainless steel to a high luster mirror like finish Just my "Three Cents worth in a Wooden Nickel" | ||
| thomas flocks (Taflocks)
Registered Member Username: Taflocks Post Number: 396 Registered: 9-2009 Posted From: 67.253.124.108 Rating: N/A |
cant get any bars here in the middle of bum***K n.h i was lucky to be able to get a buffer here. my big problem is the p/o/o used galvanized Steele on the handicapped doors so they will not polish to a mirror finish. i did buy a bottle of special marine polish and will try it on the other parts before i buy the bars. | ||
| Russell Beam (Rcbeam)
Registered Member Username: Rcbeam Post Number: 44 Registered: 11-2009 Posted From: 74.131.50.239  Rating: N/A |
Maybe along these same lines, I have been wanting to clean up/shine up the stainless on my MC8 and have no clue what to use. Maybe regular automobile wax? I don't want a mirror finish I just want to shine it up some and remove some stains. Don't know what to do further than washing. | ||
| thomas flocks (Taflocks)
Registered Member Username: Taflocks Post Number: 397 Registered: 9-2009 Posted From: 67.253.124.108 Rating: N/A |
i hated my pink and purple stripes so after the accident i figured it would be cheaper to remove all the paint rather than try to repaint the bay door bottoms.. | ||
| Jack Fids (Jack_fids)
Registered Member Username: Jack_fids Post Number: 242 Registered: 1-2009 Posted From: 69.171.161.101 Rating: N/A |
There is excellent advice above, I smell experience. Thomas (et al), you might want to consider this. I would bet that 99% here would make the assumption that in talking about "Buffing" we are discussing a tool that uses a PAD that rotates 90 deg's. to the motor, like you see in automotive paint shops. I have 0000's of hours buffing over a lifetime, all on Plexiglass for Museum displays & collectors. ALL of my buffing was done using a buffer that approximates a stand-alone bench grinder (with LONG shafts).... sometimes I had to do buffing "on site" and the best tool I found was a simple washing machine motor (1800 rpm-/+) with a $5 adaptor & 2- 8in STACKs of buffing wheels, 1 for Cutting the other for polishing. I used Tripoli for cutting and bright white compound for polishing Aluminum . I hand held this dangerous tool with great success being careful of the amount of pressure I placed against the surface being buffed. I did obtain mirror finishes.... and I did use an automotive buffer on large flat areas with automotive rubbing compound as a finishing polish... it required a wet-wipe down right afterwards. at my age, that kind of physical investment, although attractive, is pretty much out of the realm of probability. Frankly... I wait in anticipation of the first guy here to reveal that he is doing a "Rat-Rod Hound".... ...An all flat black- no polished anything- Red wheels w/wide white walls- dual rear antenna's & dice hanging in the windshield. Who ever it is, I hope he's got the hots for a chopped top Flx Clipper. (Message edited by Jack Fids on November 23, 2010) | ||
| tony denny (Papatony)
Registered Member Username: Papatony Post Number: 11 Registered: 10-2010 Posted From: 74.206.82.239 Rating: N/A |
My alum. is still in good shape I don't want to strip it so l will stick with the linseed oil thanks for all the ideas guys. Tony | ||
| C. K.. Sparks (Kozycade)
Registered Member Username: Kozycade Post Number: 43 Registered: 7-2010 Posted From: 71.161.43.196 Rating: N/A |
Tom- You need to really re-read my earlier post. You can order the sticks online , in fact, you can order complete kits, from PJ tools and fed ex will even deliver to the "far east". Once you start using them you will never turn back. No mess, no liquid, no paste, just wonderful sticks of color. I have used those on my fleet over the past twenty years and have even been given some choice words from the blinding reflection from the sun. Uh-RA. Jack- Great perception. Your right on and gives you the mirror finish every time. I feel for you on the physical investment. Just so those will know. For a 40' unpainted skin bus it takes 60 to 100 hours to achieve success depending on the condition of the skins. Another 10 to 15 for rims. Best tip I can give is to go small. Work in 4 X 4 sections. I like your vision although I was considering a Low rider Scenic Buffalo with amphioxus wheel fins in the luggage bays and 42" wheelie bars on the back and painted with rust-luem spray cans. Cade | ||
| C. K.. Sparks (Kozycade)
Registered Member Username: Kozycade Post Number: 44 Registered: 7-2010 Posted From: 71.161.43.196 Rating: N/A |
Tony- My post was for Tom. If your skins are looking well leave it be. The anodizing process requires acid baths, cleaning steps and electric current, not to mention timing equipment and dyes. Unfortunately, anodized surfaces don't clean well. In fact, if you scrub or polish such a surface all you will get over time is a shiny drab-looking finished product. In order to properly clean and polish aluminum you have to de-anodize it. | ||
| FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
Registered Member Username: Fast_fred Post Number: 1365 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 66.82.9.81  Rating: N/A |
I know about alum. but i have been using linseed oil to bring out the luster and shine i just wanted to know if there was some other way to polish it Its called WAX , and Cleconite (SP?) is about the best. Squirt the bus with water, if that wet look is your desire ,wax will do. Every 6 months will keep the shine. Have fun, FF | ||
| thomas flocks (Taflocks)
Registered Member Username: Taflocks Post Number: 398 Registered: 9-2009 Posted From: 67.253.124.108 Rating: N/A |
i think the soda blast de anodized everything.? | ||
| C. K.. Sparks (Kozycade)
Registered Member Username: Kozycade Post Number: 45 Registered: 7-2010 Posted From: 71.161.57.60 Rating: N/A |
Tom- Not a chance. I misread your post and thought you sand blasted which is a hard, heavy material that can wreak havoc on any substrate that will pit glass, tear up rubber & plastic and etch metal. On the otherhand, soda blasting is the latest technology to safely strip paint and clean most any surface by deliver sodium bicarbonate based media (baking soda) onto the surface to be cleaned without harming the anidozied coating. So the best thing to clean with is good ole water and a soft bristled brush. When the alum is tarnished and dull thats a whole different ball game. Cade | ||
| Jack Fids (Jack_fids)
Registered Member Username: Jack_fids Post Number: 243 Registered: 1-2009 Posted From: 69.171.161.42 Rating: N/A |
I would guess that is true Thomas. You at the intersection of "Elbow Grease Blvd. & "What Color Should I Paint it Ave." Cade... WHAT? no Lakes Pipes...? How about a set of 1959 Caddy Fins & tail lights mounted at the top rear of low riding Buffalo.... You stuck a nerve tho..... (exposing myself BIG-TIME here) Ah-err...you see MY 4106 IS painted with Rustoleum...! Silver Hammer-tone to be specific (or Pacific)! I experimented with several ways of applying it and settled on using a 4 inch foam roller. I actually painted #2505 completely with a 4 inch foam roller.... it wasn't bad, and it looks great, (I wish I had waxed it after it was hard) Did all of the old paint removal with a quarter-sheet Jitter-Bug sander & 40 grit paper, switched to 80 grit when I reached the primer. Honestly....I have had nothing but compliments, one cannot see any roller marks or evidence that a common ignoramus like me was even involved. ;) Have a look for yo'seff here ... http://picasaweb.google.com/jackfids/4106Album | ||
| C. K.. Sparks (Kozycade)
Registered Member Username: Kozycade Post Number: 46 Registered: 7-2010 Posted From: 71.161.57.60 Rating: N/A |
Jack- Nope Im going with dual unpainted stacks with air whistles at the top. Im not a chevy man so no caddy parts. Gonna go with the headlights and front end from a 57 Dodge cornet and add the fins to the side as you sugested. May even apply a road runner fin to hold the back to the ground... LOL @ exposing your nerve. I used that technique on my second ride and havent looked back since. It was a Goverent owned 56 F-100 Ford Panel truck with no windows in the back. As you said it looked great and loads of compliments. For a couple of years. Then the paint started to lose its luster. | ||
| thomas flocks (Taflocks)
Registered Member Username: Taflocks Post Number: 399 Registered: 9-2009 Posted From: 67.253.124.108 Rating: N/A |
the side look great but the virgin aluminum over the windows wont shine to a mirror yet. | ||
| Steven M. Toomey (Pabusnut)
Registered Member Username: Pabusnut Post Number: 17 Registered: 3-2005 Posted From: 174.55.65.46 Rating: N/A |
Jack, Just one dumb question--Where do you put the ladder when you are on the road? Steve Toomey PAbusnut | ||
| Jack Fids (Jack_fids)
Registered Member Username: Jack_fids Post Number: 244 Registered: 1-2009 Posted From: 69.171.161.125 Rating: N/A |
Steven I am axed that a lot... So I tell the gullible ones that I have a license plate for it and drag it behind on the trailer hitch... if they believe that then I really start laying it on thick until I reach the point of spontaneous incredibility. Then I tell'em the truth... The entire stairway-minus the handrail ( which breaks down into individual pieces) weighs 75 pounds, I have 2 wide rubber rollers that mount to the edge of the deck's frame on the curbside. With me on the deck, I unhook the top of the stairs from the mounts & walk it along the side of the deck to the middle where the rollers are mounted. Then it's just a matter of pulling it over the rollers & up , on to the deck from the side. I only weigh a buck & a quarter & it just a matter of controlling balance ....actually it's real easy to do. It lays flat on the deck during transport, only 11 inches high. Now the next question you'll want to ask is... How do I get down....? I use a B-29(?) escape ladder which is sectional... 3 pieces 12ft total height, ultra light Alum. tubing, small, break apart, easy storage... weigh's 6-lbs. total. I'd like to open a hatch from the bedroom to the back of the deck... I'd use the "escape" ladder for access up & out if I ever get around to THAT fantasy. THOMAS.... perhaps the Nickel content of the window panel Alum. is different from the Alum used for the skin. ( T-2, T-3, T-4 ) I believe the more Nickel, the duller it will remain...if memory serves me. 50xx series is softer, less Ni. | ||
| thomas flocks (Taflocks)
Registered Member Username: Taflocks Post Number: 400 Registered: 9-2009 Posted From: 67.253.124.108 Rating: N/A |
sounds about right........ | ||
| Ednj (Ednj)
Registered Member Username: Ednj Post Number: 281 Registered: 3-2003 Posted From: 71.200.101.231  Rating: N/A |
Try these people in NH. They will have what you need to polish that aluminum. http://www.berubes.com/ |