| Author |
Message |
Brian James Houk (Brianmci96a3) (65.41.249.35)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, September 09, 2003 - 8:47 am: | |
On a previous post the J hinge bolt for a MC9 sedan door was mentioned and the little light bulb went off! The J hinge on my 96A3 doesn't have a bolt in it, what it does have, has the appearance of all-thread with nylock nut on the lower end and the upper 1/2 inch necked down. None of this would cause a problem except that the all-thread appears to have
dropped down about 2 inches, there is no nut on the upper section of the all thread, the necked down part is the only part that sticks through the upper section of the hinge attached to the bus and the all thread is siezed and visciously so. Needless to say the door is a hair off kilter. My questions: Is this supposed to have been a bolt like is mentioned for the MC-9? Is the J Hinge threaded?
Brian |
two dogs (67.30.23.29)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, September 09, 2003 - 6:08 pm: | |
welp...nobody has answered you..number one,althread sucks,cheap steel,and it will chew up the inside of your hinge..if I were you ,I'd measure I.D. of hinge & go to a hardware store & buy a bolt the correct dia.....can't really answer about the "J" part,without seeing what you are talking about |
Brian James Houk (Brianmci96a3) (65.41.249.35)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, September 09, 2003 - 11:01 pm: | |
Thanks two dogs, I should have mentioned, I'm a Nevada DOT diesel mechanic with over 23 years experience, I know from things like all-thread, and it IS usually pretty crappy, although they make it in grade 5 AND GRADE 8...hard stuff, and I'm fairly certain the stuff in that hinge is at least grade 5. Having said that, I have, until now, zilch in the way of experience with road coaches...
AND having said THAT, I was hoping someone would KNOW if that hinge is threaded or not, it may change how I attack the problem!
Brian |
TomNPat (66.82.9.24)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, September 10, 2003 - 2:33 am: | |
Our MCI 9 has thread on the inside of the J hinge, 3/4" or so. The door hinges on this thread and it is lubricated through a zerk at the bottom of the bolt with a hole to the thread. The upper section of the bolt is 7/16" I think, may be half, but it is tapered between the larger and smaller thread so as to be locked against the frame boss by the nut on the smaller thread. Door height adjustment is made on the larger thread with the nut loose, then the nut is locked tight.
Ours is an NJ transit on which we replaced the transit double doors. The correct bolt from MCI costs about $50. Wouldn't pay to try to make one unless you have a desire to improve your lathe skills.
Would kind of guess that the same is true of your bus, even though newer.
TomNPat |
Brian James Houk (Brianmci96a3) (65.41.249.35)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, September 10, 2003 - 9:00 am: | |
TomNPat, yes I feel confident it is the same design as found in your MC-9. Did I understand correctly that the "bolt" is stationary and the door actually
pivots on its threads? Hmmm if that's so, I may have to buy a new J hinge too, as it is, right now the all-thread in it is siezed solid and the door pivots on the lower frame boss! Thanks for your input, I know how I am going to proceed with the repair now.
Brian |
Jim Ashworth (Jimnh) (172.174.213.28)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, September 10, 2003 - 5:50 pm: | |
The bolt on my MC-8 was seized so bad I had to take the hinge out by cutting the bolt with a torch. I ordered a new hinge and bolt. After installing the new parts, I took the torch to the hinge. I had nothing to lose. It loosened and came right out. I then made up a new bolt and sold it to a friend whose door was caught by wind and broke the hinge. Still working 3 years later. Might be worth trying since you also have nothing to lose.
Jim |
TomNPat (66.82.9.43)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, September 10, 2003 - 9:29 pm: | |
Brian,
You understand correctly, the bolt is stationary. Our bolt was cut off in the hinge when Nimco removed the door. On advise, I welded a nut on the old bolt by welding inside the nut to the top of the bolt. Welded all the way to the top of the nut and got it real hot. Then quickly applied ice to the nut and a wrench (good sized). Started working it back and forth and applying Kroil penetrating oil. That stuff is really good. Started at about a twentieth of a turn and kept working and gaining. As soon as you get a full turn, you've got it made. Best to have a helper man the Kroil and the ice.
Thought I'd have to buy a new hinge, but had nothing to loose. Came out fine, really easier than I thought.
Good luck.
TomNPat |
Brian James Houk (Brianmci96a3) (65.40.145.115)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, September 13, 2003 - 4:52 pm: | |
TomNPat, is the door itself too heavy for one person to manage? I was thinking of blocking up the door in place when I take the J hindge off, but I'd hate for it to take a tumble if the wind caught it!
Brian |
Jim Ashworth (Jimnh) (172.161.83.11)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, September 13, 2003 - 6:02 pm: | |
Blocking the door is a good idea, but it needs to be tied at the top to something more substantial than a stepladder. I used a section of scaffolding to brace the top when I did my work. It is a heavy door. If it got away from me, I know I couldn't handle it alone.
Jim |
Brian James Houk (Brianmci96a3) (65.40.145.115)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, September 13, 2003 - 7:25 pm: | |
Hmmm, Jim that does give me pause, I don't have a section of scafolding handy. I may try to drive a 6' fence post into the ground (silty soil), open the door till it rests against the post, ratchet a strap around it to hold it to the post then block it up in place. Anyone have another idea?
Brian |