| Author |
Message |
Robert Munrow (205.188.208.39)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, September 23, 2003 - 7:38 pm: | |
I have an Eagle 10 that I raised the roof on and removed the windows, put 22 guage steel for a filler where windows were taken out. I didn't lap the panels over or under but butt jointed them. I left about quarter inch on top and bottom for expansion and a strong eight inch side to side. I put Sikaflex in these joints and after the winter it popped the paint. The next year I re-did it and popped the paint again. I asked a body man and was told to use fiberglass and resin. I did that and now that is starting to pop. If you have any experience in this matter please reply. Thanks.
Bob |
Jayjay (198.81.26.104)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, September 23, 2003 - 11:03 pm: | |
You will have to use 16 or 18 guage metal and a 1/4" minimum overlap on the side, and install a 3/4" X 1/8" thick steel angle in the top and bottom recess to fasten those overlaps to. 1/8" piop rivets (or larger) on 3" centers, or light tack welds at the same spacing. Use Paint-Lok metal if you can get it. Wash the metal with phosphoric acid, then rinse, prime, and paint. When you can no longer "smell" the fresh paint, you can use Sika-Flex 252 ot 3M's 5200 or 5400 to seal it. Then it will stay. Money-back guarantee! Going back to your post...your 22 guage metal is too thin and the expansion co-efficient difference between the coach body and thin metal is allowing too much creep, and not enough fasteners lets it jump around badly. Good luck. Cheers...JJ |
two dogs (67.30.23.18)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, September 24, 2003 - 8:22 am: | |
I agree on the thickness,should be 18 ga. but... something you might try before you tear it all up...drill a 3/8 hole at the top of your inner panel and fill with "great stuff" foam insulation |
Eagle 10 (216.204.105.80)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, September 24, 2003 - 10:23 am: | |
Robert,
I had had the same problem with the butt panels on my Eagle 10 after about 3 years. I have a graphic on both sides and did not want to strip it all and start over. $$$$ I went to Home Depot and bought metal strips wide enough to cover the butt areas. I added the same paint scheme on the strips and put it on with Sikaflex. It has been on for 2 years now and looks great. |
two dogs (67.30.23.42)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, September 24, 2003 - 10:24 am: | |
WAIT A MINUTE....I just got to thinking about your question..the main problem you are haveing ,is the paint popping off ??DID YOU USE GALVANIZED METAL??...paint will not stick to galvanized metal unless it is "etched"...paint shops make a etching that goes on "before" anything,50.00 a quart or, I've heard that vinegar does the same thing,I just did the windows on my EAGLE ,I wiped the galvanized down with alcohol,then white vinegar,then sealer,then paint don't know how much trouble it's going to be for you to get back down to the original surface, with all the fiberglass & stuff you have on there |
Gary McFarland (Gearheadgary) (209.128.99.4)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, September 25, 2003 - 1:47 pm: | |
Hmm...
all sheet metal should be lapped, at least as far as I've ever seen. I'm about to re-sheet the upper panels in my bird, I may butt them, but if I do, I will probably weld the seam (Big Job).
Also, 22 ga is real thin.
Using a rigid filler, like "Eagle 10" above mentioned, is a good way around this problem, actually the only way short of a re-skin that I can think of.
Also, I'd be careful blowing in any Touch-N-Foam, or Great Stuff, it expands and blows things apart.
I guess there's a less-expanding version, but I'd be careful.
Gary |
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